RWANDA.
4thJuly to 9th July
We left Mvanza at 8am hoping to sleep just before the border to Rwanda, unfortunately we found no where, wait I lie, Wolf found a place and went in to see what it was like, came out reported to his wife, (Muslim toilet and a grin on his face) enough for me, “please lets go on”. Well we then had to go through the border. What a wonderful relaxed and welcome border. “How long do you want to stay” we welcome you for as long as you want. No visa fees for either of us, no toll fees. The only border we have ever crossed with no costs.
While at the border, on the Tanzania side (and we were lucky where we parked, Wolf was a bit worried about blocking a truck in, so he reversed as far back so as not to block a truck that might have had to leave before us). While we were in the immigration office we heard yelling and screaming and a truck crashing through the barrier, (Rwanda is built on one thousand hills, including the border post on the Tanzania side) a truck lost his breaks and careered down the slope and turned over before going onto bridge which would have been even worse. By the time we got through customs and left the border a petrol tanker was trying to pull the truck over to get the driver who was trapped out.’
You just ask yourself how lucky and blessed you are, five minutes either way, we could have been in the car, or worst, Wolf reversing the car.
Rwanda has no camping, so we ended up in a small village 90km before Kigale, and stayed at a guest house, Sunrise Guest House. Not too bad, as least it had a normal toilet and sort of hot water. Dinner was of coarse, very, very fresh chicken with very long wings and legs. Not sure if it was a runner or a flier!!!!!!!!!!
We left the next morning for Kigale, if you don’t have a map and then even if you do have one, this city is unbelievable to try and understand. Two hours after arriving in the city we had managed to find a book shop, buy a proper Bradt book with proper maps, find a place to stay. Had a Chinese Lunch and then went up to the Genocide Memorial/Museum. This tries to give you an insight on how in three months 1 million men, women and children were slaughtered. I say only an insight because no matter how one thinks, it is impossible to understand it fully. Actually both of us decided short of a short account of where we visited and what we saw, we would not be putting anything on the website. It is far too emotional and impossible to describe. We visited the memorial which is very well laid out, one section – he build up to and the actual account of the million people killed, the second where accounts from survivors are on tape, write ups and pictures of some of the children killed and also a section where genocides happened all over the world. Outside there are mass graves and a rose garden has been planted around. You come away emotionally drained and hope and pray that in our world today this will never happen again. We also visited the church in Kibuye where 4000 women and children were killed while trying to hide. The town of Kibuye is on Lake Kivu which runs for almost 100km along the Congo border. It has a surface area of 2200 square km. It is among the 20 deepest lakes in the world, with a maximum dept of 480m.
On route to the Volcanoes National Park, we took a road of about 94 km through the hills, (Rwanda the country of 1000 hills) winding up and down, altitudes changing from 1500 to 2200m. The road is really all volcanic rock, so for Wolf it was dreadful, for his wife, it was wonderful, no speed more than 20km. You had time to see the beautiful scenery and everywhere you looked into the hills, there were areas of crops, bananas and tea. The tea plantations are immaculately kept.
We had enquired in Kibal about seeing the Gorillas here and were told that it was fully booked for the following two weeks, we were very disappointed but decided to try anyway. Spent a night in Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) at a catholic mission who allows campers. Went to early morning mass (6.15am) and then left to try and wait it out at the Volcanoes National Park where the tracking of Gorillas are. We arrived as all the vehicles for the day were leaving, they have 5 habituated troops and only allow 8 people in each group per day. Well all we were about to do is be close to their offices and ensure in the next few days, if there was a cancellation we would be there to take it up. What a surprise when one of the vehicles being held up because of three non arrivals, a quick do you have cash to pay, and can you leave immediately. You have never seen people change as quickly, within minutes we were on our way.
After a walk of 6km into the forest, (mainly uphill) the nettles (they sting like crazy) we reached them at an altitude of about 2800m. (must tell my gym friends, I really managed well, could not have done it a year ago) Just for encouragement you get a “porter”. For a small fee, the ex poachers are now employed as porters, they carry your photo equipment if you need a pull or a push they do that too. (a bit of cheating on the side) You do have to climb over trees, rocks etc. They have a soldier in front and one at the back. It is for protection from wild animals, (we never saw any) You also have a tracker, a guide and a guy who slashes the way through the nettles etc. Our guide was Oliver and tracker were really good.
Nothing can prepare you for the impact of encountering these beautiful creatures. Our group consisted of 2 silverbacks (between 200-220 kg) 1 black backed, 3 females, 2 juveniles and 2 babies, one which was only 3 months old. They were remarkably peaceable and tolerant of our presence. We felt privileged to spend an hour (that’s all you get watching them as they go about their daily routine, feeding, playing, and sleeping. This forest was where Dian Fossey lived for l8 years. The gorilla’s habitat in the mountainous north is the string of magnificent Virunga peaks that range from 2500 to 4500 mts. There are 6 volcanoes in the mountains.
Well we will be posting some pictures on the web to share with you, but no pictures can do justice to how we felt in the hour we spent up there.
The highlights and lowlights of Rwanda, easy to recognize, but both, Gorillas and the Genocide Memorials being very deep and emotional feelings.
The new government are determined that there are no more Hutus, Tutsis or Twa, just Rwandans and what we found in Rwanda is a very clean country with many people who just wanted to chat with us.For me, I will always remember Rwanda as one of the highlights of our trip
4thJuly to 9th July
We left Mvanza at 8am hoping to sleep just before the border to Rwanda, unfortunately we found no where, wait I lie, Wolf found a place and went in to see what it was like, came out reported to his wife, (Muslim toilet and a grin on his face) enough for me, “please lets go on”. Well we then had to go through the border. What a wonderful relaxed and welcome border. “How long do you want to stay” we welcome you for as long as you want. No visa fees for either of us, no toll fees. The only border we have ever crossed with no costs.
While at the border, on the Tanzania side (and we were lucky where we parked, Wolf was a bit worried about blocking a truck in, so he reversed as far back so as not to block a truck that might have had to leave before us). While we were in the immigration office we heard yelling and screaming and a truck crashing through the barrier, (Rwanda is built on one thousand hills, including the border post on the Tanzania side) a truck lost his breaks and careered down the slope and turned over before going onto bridge which would have been even worse. By the time we got through customs and left the border a petrol tanker was trying to pull the truck over to get the driver who was trapped out.’
You just ask yourself how lucky and blessed you are, five minutes either way, we could have been in the car, or worst, Wolf reversing the car.
Rwanda has no camping, so we ended up in a small village 90km before Kigale, and stayed at a guest house, Sunrise Guest House. Not too bad, as least it had a normal toilet and sort of hot water. Dinner was of coarse, very, very fresh chicken with very long wings and legs. Not sure if it was a runner or a flier!!!!!!!!!!
We left the next morning for Kigale, if you don’t have a map and then even if you do have one, this city is unbelievable to try and understand. Two hours after arriving in the city we had managed to find a book shop, buy a proper Bradt book with proper maps, find a place to stay. Had a Chinese Lunch and then went up to the Genocide Memorial/Museum. This tries to give you an insight on how in three months 1 million men, women and children were slaughtered. I say only an insight because no matter how one thinks, it is impossible to understand it fully. Actually both of us decided short of a short account of where we visited and what we saw, we would not be putting anything on the website. It is far too emotional and impossible to describe. We visited the memorial which is very well laid out, one section – he build up to and the actual account of the million people killed, the second where accounts from survivors are on tape, write ups and pictures of some of the children killed and also a section where genocides happened all over the world. Outside there are mass graves and a rose garden has been planted around. You come away emotionally drained and hope and pray that in our world today this will never happen again. We also visited the church in Kibuye where 4000 women and children were killed while trying to hide. The town of Kibuye is on Lake Kivu which runs for almost 100km along the Congo border. It has a surface area of 2200 square km. It is among the 20 deepest lakes in the world, with a maximum dept of 480m.
On route to the Volcanoes National Park, we took a road of about 94 km through the hills, (Rwanda the country of 1000 hills) winding up and down, altitudes changing from 1500 to 2200m. The road is really all volcanic rock, so for Wolf it was dreadful, for his wife, it was wonderful, no speed more than 20km. You had time to see the beautiful scenery and everywhere you looked into the hills, there were areas of crops, bananas and tea. The tea plantations are immaculately kept.
We had enquired in Kibal about seeing the Gorillas here and were told that it was fully booked for the following two weeks, we were very disappointed but decided to try anyway. Spent a night in Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) at a catholic mission who allows campers. Went to early morning mass (6.15am) and then left to try and wait it out at the Volcanoes National Park where the tracking of Gorillas are. We arrived as all the vehicles for the day were leaving, they have 5 habituated troops and only allow 8 people in each group per day. Well all we were about to do is be close to their offices and ensure in the next few days, if there was a cancellation we would be there to take it up. What a surprise when one of the vehicles being held up because of three non arrivals, a quick do you have cash to pay, and can you leave immediately. You have never seen people change as quickly, within minutes we were on our way.
After a walk of 6km into the forest, (mainly uphill) the nettles (they sting like crazy) we reached them at an altitude of about 2800m. (must tell my gym friends, I really managed well, could not have done it a year ago) Just for encouragement you get a “porter”. For a small fee, the ex poachers are now employed as porters, they carry your photo equipment if you need a pull or a push they do that too. (a bit of cheating on the side) You do have to climb over trees, rocks etc. They have a soldier in front and one at the back. It is for protection from wild animals, (we never saw any) You also have a tracker, a guide and a guy who slashes the way through the nettles etc. Our guide was Oliver and tracker were really good.
Nothing can prepare you for the impact of encountering these beautiful creatures. Our group consisted of 2 silverbacks (between 200-220 kg) 1 black backed, 3 females, 2 juveniles and 2 babies, one which was only 3 months old. They were remarkably peaceable and tolerant of our presence. We felt privileged to spend an hour (that’s all you get watching them as they go about their daily routine, feeding, playing, and sleeping. This forest was where Dian Fossey lived for l8 years. The gorilla’s habitat in the mountainous north is the string of magnificent Virunga peaks that range from 2500 to 4500 mts. There are 6 volcanoes in the mountains.
Well we will be posting some pictures on the web to share with you, but no pictures can do justice to how we felt in the hour we spent up there.
The highlights and lowlights of Rwanda, easy to recognize, but both, Gorillas and the Genocide Memorials being very deep and emotional feelings.
The new government are determined that there are no more Hutus, Tutsis or Twa, just Rwandans and what we found in Rwanda is a very clean country with many people who just wanted to chat with us.For me, I will always remember Rwanda as one of the highlights of our trip
2 comments:
We spotted you today at Shoprite in Kampala, Uganda. Cool doing this enjoy your trip to Germany
We spotted you today at Shoprite in Kampala, Uganda. Cool doing this enjoy your trip to Germany
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