The Morning drive did not disappoint us, we saw two male lions from a different pride (comes from a pride of 17) buffalo, lots of elephant, two breeding herds with little ones, hippo, kudu, Puku,, Giraffe and 14 more different species of birds.
We spent the next two days doing a game drive of our own, one morning and one afternoon, evening on our own. We were quite pleased we took a guided game drive as the park is not easy to follow, we realise now how well we knew Ingwelala and where to go and what to see.
5th to 7th May, 209
We left South Luangwa and spent again a night at Mama’s Rest Camp to refuel and clean up, and then did the long haul back Lusaka, our main aim was to try and get the computer going again. It has taken 2 and a half weeks to fix the computer. Gremlin between phone and computer. It took two days in Lusaka, what a waste, going from cell phone shop to computer shop, to cell provider and everything was wrong with everything. One said don't have a MTN cell no because they don't have the correct settings for the phone, then we had another telling us we had to reset the cell phone and that needed the installing disc, where was that, packed and in storage at home, we were about to buy a new cell phone, but because the cell phone shop would not let us check the phone with the computer before buying it, as here the cell provider has to install and check so possibly, R2000 later we could have the same problem. Thank heavens for some quick thinking in the 2nd cell provider shop, by the lady who does the settings, she said before buying new phone, we must bring the computer to her, she told us she thought the cable from phone to computer was faulty, and she was quite right, we had a second one and lo and behold it connected phone to computer, but still it did not find the internet. My bright husband, hours later having given up running from shop to shop, using Adams mail to us started checking the setting on the Computer, Hello Hello Hello we are connected once again.
What good came out of staying two days in Lusaka, we had drinks and supper in the pub on the second night and met a couple of people who are working in Zambia, Open Africa promoting tourism projects and funded by the World Bank. Kobus and Katherina they were about to do a trip to Kasanga National Park which was our next port of call, after which they are going further north to a village which they are going to promote, with all the cultural stuff that goes with the village and its Bisa Tribe. The road from Kasanga is fairly bad so he offered for us to come with them in convoy, also suggested we leave our trailer at Kasanga, (he knows the owners) and we will then sleep in the Village with them, where they have to do the whole night experience, after which we leave and go to Shoebill Island, this is a another short piece (80km) but very bad road, to where he has organized to leave our vehicle at the “airport” close to the island and we will go by Mokoro (boat) to the island itself.
8th to 20th May
Well this all worked out really well and on route to Kasanga National Park spent two nights at the Kundalilia Falls (it means “cooing dove”) There is a tale which goes with name that at some time it was thought that there was gold at the bottom of the falls and that the doves carried the gold in their crop and they were then shot to retrieve the gold!!!!!!!!!!
We then went onto Kassanga and met up with the others, had the most super experience at the “Nakapalayo Village” The people are from the Bisa tribe. They originated from central Congo, and are one of the most friendly and hospitable people. The village promotes a cultural exchange and brings development and employment to the local community. 25% income from the development is invested into local conservation projects.
We had a traditional meal (served in local style, no cutlery) which bar the fact that we had to eat with our hands, was super, the chicken (wild) was served with local veg (a pumpkin of sorts and pumpkin leaves which taste like spinach) and of coarse stiff mielie Pap, (not Dawns taste but Wolf enjoyed it.) We were then entertained by the whole village to dancing (with storytelling) around the fire. We were encouraged to dance with them and had a wonderful fulfilling experience. I would recommend anyone doing this trip to take an extra night and stay over. You can stay in their quite comfortable huts with clean ablutions (Bucket showers, hot water brought at your request.) We stayed in our own tent and the others in the huts.
We left the village the next morning for our trip to Shoebill Island. We are lucky enough to be able to get there, a few weeks before this would not have been possible. Even this was quite a trip, (quite happy we had left our trailer behind) Just before the island is an airport, and this was as far as we could go and the last piece an experience of note. We were told to take the outside track and as we approached the airport, well this was something else, mud splashed up from all over, never have we shut windows so fast, in a few seconds you could not even see the windscreen, the car was covered in mud. Well lucky for me, Wolf was quite fast and we reached the airport without getting stuck. (the rosary and St Christopher being rubbed non stop) Approaching the airport you pass hundreds and hundreds of Black Lechwe. It resembles the Massa Mara you see on the TV, instead of wildebeest there are these plains of Lechwe. Here we repacked a box of food, clothes, water and Wine, Klippie and coke for the next two days. We were transported over to the island by Mokoro. Our tent for the next two days, consisted of a bed, (mozi net) and a shower and toilet. Again Bucket shower, when you are ready for your shower they bring the hot water. Our food was cooked by their chef and we enjoyed our first night, just listening to birds early evening and then to our amazement the cry of hyenas in the night.
(The lechwe's are on their menu)
A Shoebill is known only to occur from Sudan in the South to Northern Zambia in large freshwater swamps. Because it lives in Marshes hidden away in the reeds it is thought to be the worlds most unknown and inaccessible birds. Their eggs and chicks are often stolen or sold by Fisherman when found. There is also history that hunting operators who find them catch the chicks for rearing and selling. They are between a metre and 1.4mt high and in flight resemble a Goliath Heron. Not a pretty bird but very majestic and actually comical to look at. We left in the morning at 7am from the island in a Mokora and it was 12noon before we actually spotted one. The to our delight a second one. Photos again not wonderful, balanced on the moving Morkora and trying to focus with the reeds all moving in the wind. I think I should have got a photo of Wolf instead, this was really funny.
The global population is thought to be about 5000. They breed mostly in Zambia when the flood planes begin to recede. (April to June)
The 6 hour ride was very eventful and we saw about 90 species of different birds. (Mostly Water Birds and birds at home in Swamps)
We left the next morning early for a long trek back to fetch the trailer, I forgot to mention the trip is almost only tracks with grass high on both sides and sometimes almost impossible to see front, back or sides.
About 160km trip took us about 6 hours. Picked up the trailer and pushed onto Mutinondo about a further 200km. We are running into a time frame problem now as our visa is only for 30days and we need to be out of Zambia before 25th. We chickened out here and decided to have dinner in the restaurant. The owners were really super, with only us there they called their Chef back to prepare a meal for us. Mike and Lari, the owners, had dinner with us and shared some of their experiences, it was a really super evening with quite a few laughs. We would have love to stay and extra day or two. They have horses and the fairly large farm can be seen on horseback. Lots of walks as well. Well recommended.
We left them quite early to get to Kapishya Hot Springs and Shiwa N’gandu. Shiwa House was built in 1924 by Stewart Gore-Brown and built on a model of a country house in England called Brooklands. It really looks out of place in Africa, but the gardens and surrounding area on the lake is very typical of an English Garden. The lake called Shiwa N’gandu Lake, (means royal crocodile) All the crockery, books (a complete Library) and all equipment which could not be found locally was transported 70 miles on foot from Ndola to the Luapula River and then a 10 day canoe trip through Bangweulu Swamps and then another 70 mile hike on foot. The house is now owned by Gore Brown’s Grandson, David. In 1925 Gore Brown was employing 1800 local people and had workshops, school and hospital as well as this magnificent Manor House.
Again spent two super days here, spending most of the time a the hot spring, it is about 40 degrees. The best was in the evening after dinner, we would take out wine and spend an hour just soaking in the spring and enjoying our wine (Thank you Suzanne, this was the bottle you gave us on leaving White River.)The Kapishya Hot Springs are owned and run by the brother of David, Mike Harvey who also runs Buffalo Camp in Northern Luangwa, the camp has to be rebuilt after each rainy season and Mike runs walking safari’s which apparently you walk and can see hundreds of buffalo’s. I would love to have done a trip there, not for anyone on a budget. Spent a super evening in the pub with Mike, his wife and Marcus from England. Stories which made Dawn really laugh, all my friends will
understand how good the evening was.
We are now on Lake Tanganyika which is absolute super. Water at about 24-28 degrees. Once again the roads here are something else and nothing is done in any speed. We have had our stay in our passports extended so we can be safely sure of getting out in time and also managing to do some snorkelling and fishing.
