Namibia

Sept, 9th 2008
Left for Johannesburg at 6am to overnite with Erika & Wolf Maier for the 1st part of our Namibia trip.
Sept, 10th left Maier residence at 5am. Slight hiccup the Maier car would not start, but with the help of the other car (lesson 1 why you should always travel with two parties) we were only delayed 15min and were on our way.
Our agenda was to try and reach Upington that evening (860km) We had a good run and stopped for Lunch in Kuruman next to the eye (a natural water spring which supplies the whole town with water) We got to our destination at 3pm and overnited in UPINGTON at Eiland Resort (not camping) on the Orange River. Had a good dinner in Town and next morning did a quick shop for fresh veg and Karoo lamb and sandals for the ladies (can’t resist the last bit of good shops
Sept11th, On the road to Augrabies where we spent two nights. (120km) One day we visited Riemvasmaak, It is between the Orange and Malapo Rivers. It measures 75000 hectares of sheer mountain desert wilderness. It is born from Violent Volcanic activity millions of years ago. Driving through an awesome lunar like landscape. After travelling for a couple of hours you find yourself in the middle of nowhere. You are dwarfed with an 80mt high granite wall, and there a hot spring and a small site for picnicking. After a short stop (put your feet in the small spring) we made our way back stopping where the locals had put up a picnic spot (covered)
The second day we did the Falls and surrounding area.
Sept.13th On the way to Springbok, stopped and had breakfast at Pofadder (a dream of Wolf’s) Actually the rest of us were quite surprised a music café dedicated to Elvis, with pictures everywhere and open pizza type oven which the owner was doing Roosterbrood (Merrie thought of you) They were like Doodgooiers. Also stopped at Pelele where we saw a church which was built before there was a road there. Water, stone brought up from the Orange River. Very interesting history told by a nun who gave us a tour of the church.
SPRINGBOK (340km) Spent two days in and around Springbok to see the flowers, although according to the locals, we were about 1 month too late. We had never been before so we did not know what we were missing and saw good shows of a few different flowers and I would say this is something which should not be missed.
15th Sept. Left for Alexandra Bay, very disappointing for us all, not even the meeting of the Orange River and the ocean was not impressive, we pushed on a little further (22km) and slept at Brandkaros chalets (cheated again and did not camp)(277km) Had a lovely supper and cracked our 2nd bottle of Champagne
16th Sept, On the road to the Richtersveld, stopped at Sendlingsdrift to check ourselves in and say goodbye to the cell phone contacts. (120km) This is all that we planned for the day, thank heavens we left at 8am and arrived at destination DEHOOP at 2pm. The trip was the start of sand and rock roads and after taking 3 hours to do a 38km from the reception to DeHoop, one piece of 11km over Akkedspas Pass took us 1 and a half hours, you actually start questioning your sanity. The rosary beads were shining and I think God actually was very happy when we arrived at the camp site, to get a rest from me. Here the pictures tell some of the story. But the camp sites were full so it is not only us that are crazy. Spent two days at De Hoop travelling in the Park, up the mountains and passes and down into riverbeds etc,etc and you are happy you don’t have the trailer behind. We did about 115km leaving our camp site at 10.30 and only getting back at 17.30. The mountains, the hills, the flowers, the magnificent views made it all worthwhile.
Our campsite was right on the Orange River (now called Lariep River). Cold showers and as we were quite a way from the toilets, the bush came into use.
17th Sept. We moved onto another Campsite Potjiespram (100km) We took a long route around so we did not have to do the Akkedspas pass again, this took us over the Hellsgate mountain pass and onto the Sendlingsdrift road, the scenery was spectacular and as we went this way we could touch base with the families on cell at Sendlingsdrift. The campsite Potjiespram was very disappointing, it is overrun with Baboons, and some previous travellers had put their rubbish in the showers and the baboons trashed it, breaking everything and leaving their rubbish all over. So disappointed we were, not being able to leave the site alone we decided to push on the next day to Ai Ais.
19th Sept . Leaving Sendlingsdrift you cross the river (border to Namibia) on a pont, very quick and what efficiency by the Namibia border officials. Now really started the sand road, from here on until Luderitz you don’t know if tar existed.
Although at this point the sand roads were still easy driving and we were still impressed. Ai Ai was closed due to renovations so we pushed onto Fish River Canyon. (234km) We camped at the Canyon, parked off the afternoon and visited the canyon the next day. What an absolute stunning sight, the depth and width is just amazing; Photographs cannot take this all in. I cannot believe that we as travelled South Africans, we have never done this before.
Sept 20th & 21st- Quiver Tree Forest and Giants Playground – Keetmanshoop (160km) By this time we were happy to sit, DRINK and just take in the scenery, one place you can. Cleaned up the tents, shook out the dust, changed Linen and washed and all felt slightly normal. (Specially after a very sociable night)
Sept 22nd- Left for Luderitz, what I have forgotten that 90% of the trip had been really windy and the nights really cold. We had heard that Luderitz was even worse, so we played “chicken” and booked into a bed and breakfast for 2 days. After booking in, we went to the “harbour” all rocks and up on a slight hill, it was absolutely stunning, and we all said the same thing, we had made a mistake and should have camped right here. Wolf was just resetting his camera to take a picture of a ship out at sea, when he looked up to take the picture, there was something wrong with the camera, he checked and then looked up and lo and behold, not the camera, the fog and mist had come in from the sea in those few moments. Unbelievable. Well they say this city has 4 seasons in one day, believe it! We visited the Kolmanskop (Ghost Town) A town that was the principal town of the diamond industry and abandoned over 45years ago, it now gives a fascinating insight into the area’s great diamond boom. A few of the buildings, including the concert hall have been restored but most left exactly as they were deserted and now the dunes are gradually burying them. What a place for a large party (CHANDY AND TOM) Had a few good meals, ate lots of oysters, visited some of the coast around (Halifax Island & Agate Beach) and a church. Not sure it is a town we would revisit. (500km from Keetmanshoop)
23rd Sept. Went via Helmeringhausen to Duvisib Castle (350km) All Wolf wanted to do was have Apfelkuchen (applecake) and Coffee, The cake was stale and we were all very disappointed. We were due to camp here but the Castle Attendant told us there was a problem with their water system and suggested we stayed down the road about 20km away. We were not sure he was bluffing and probably was taking a commission for the people he sent to Betta Campsite. Had a look at the castle and pushed on the 20km to find he had done us a real favour, we had decent ablutions and even had a sheltered area for eating and relaxing, thank heaven for small mercies, the wind and cold had not let up yet. (And we thought this was a summer holiday!!!)
24th Sept Left at 8.30am for Sossesvlei (144km) Camped at Betesda Camp Site about 60km from the entrance to the park. Parked off again, and drank (we did lots of that) tied the tents down so we did not blow away. Next morning went into the park, the dunes are amazing, once again the pictures tell the story, Went up one of the dunes, (3/4 of the way) and slid down on our feet. The place is amazing, The weather behaved itself and we hardly had any wind. Had an impromptu brunch before returning to camp (another one of the bonus’s of carrying fridges in the car) the 26th (Saturday) was a lazy day, cleaning up and dusting out, helping to clean and pack the Maier’s up who booked into the Betesda Chalets for the night, they booked a table for us for dinner to say goodbye.
25th Sept, The Maier’s left for their return journey and we left for a long road to Swakopmund. (400km)
27th Sept. Left early supposed to be up at 6am to leave at 7am. Wolfs eyes are getting old or there was method in his madness, he tells me its 6am and its only 5am, by the time I realise the actual time it’s too late to change departure time, and so then it became 6am departure. Good run through the Naucliff Park, through to Walvis Bay and onto Swakamund found a really good campsite, Alesbruken, own ablutions and kitchen, shaded from the wind and away from sand.
We spent 6 days in Swakapmund, the highlight was our sandboarding, eating lots of oysters, Lots of walking, a day trip into the Naucliff Park with beautiful moonlike mountain scenery, the welwitchiers, litchens, Dollar Bush, Tea bush and of coarse more bad roads and rocks. Although work was the priority for month end, we certainly managed to see lots of Swakapmund, coffee and cakes, and sundowners in lovely pubs.
All too fast came Thursday 2nd October, and shopping for the North Trip and packing was then on the agenda, stocked up with German bread and german goodies.
Now for the changes in plan, decided to see Spitzkoppe first and were recommended to stay at Omandumba Farm in the Erongo Mountains but somehow went past it and eventually went into Omoruru which turned out to be awful. Went onto Uis, (dawn) decided to push into the Brandburg mountains to the White Lady of Brandberg. Well the road was dreadful, husband and wife were not even speaking to each other (828km) with stops for really good sightings, it took us 9hours. Even I felt sorry for Wolf (but don’t worry friends, I haven’t changed, I did not tell him I felt sorry for him)
Sundowners, a meal and we were in bed by 8pm.
Spent 3 nights here. 1st day, had a super drive up and down the river we were just turning around to go back to camp when some movement to side caught our attention and we were really privileged to see 4 desert elephants. We spent an hour watching them. They are definitely smaller that our ellies at home, but there circumference of their feet are definitely much larger. The reason for this is apparently the amount of walking they do in the sand. As we were about to leave them another appeared on the other side. While trying to watch him and turn we got stuck in the sand. Now watching both sides, the brave Gutmann’s get out the vehicle to dig the car out of the sand. Quite FUN, at least it was talking and laughing about it over the campfire and lots of “klippie/coke & Wine” .
6thOctober. We seemed to take the long wayround, and again by the next night you actually see the miles you do and wonder if you are completely crazy to do this.
Left Brandburg before 6am, drove to the Coast to Hentjiesbay, up to Cape Cross to where the seals can be seen and smelt for a km. We watched a black backed Jackal trying very hard to catch a seal.
Then right up the skeleton coast, up as far a Tora Bay, (couldn’t get permission to stay Terrance Bay) so at the junction to Tora Bay we went inland and before we could find a place to camp it was 513 km later and 4.30pm. Told you we are crazy. I must admit I would not have missed it either. (Again this is always the case at night over a couple(!!) of drinks and around a lovely fire) The scenery changes from scrub and bush to Sand and Sea, back to desert and rock and then into a mountainous region. Stopped at Aba-Huah Campsite run by the local community and it about 15km from Twyfelfontein. Had a super campsite, well run with our own ablutions, (supposed to be shared with two) under a lapa which was sheltered from the wind, which had not left us yet
6th to 9th October. Spent three nights here, visited the Largest known rock art site in Namibia at Twyfelfontein, The large collections of more than 2000 rock engravings and archaeological remains found here indicate that people were present in this valley for at least the past 6000 years. The paintings were quite clear and very interesting. We had an absolute lethargic (female) guide, fat and lazy both to walk and to talk.
Also went to burnt mountain, very disappointing, it really does just look like a burnt mountain, and although we even went back in the evening to see the mountains possibly at their best with the sunset, it never materialized. Supposed to glow with a startling rainbow of colours as if it’s on fire.
2nd day Went to Khorixas (shopping!!!!!) and went to see the Petrified Forest. These are petrified trees on a bed of sandstone. Some are partially buried and some are completely exposed. It is thought that they were carried here as logs by a river some 250 millions years ago and became stranded on a sandbank. Subsequently sand was deposited around them, creating ideal conditions for the cells of wood to be replaced by silica and thus become petrified.
Had a very nice short drive to Palmwag Lodge,(110km) which is on the edge of a concession and decided to give Wolf a rest from driving, took a guided game drive, (Nigel we thought of you, when he was not sure what bird was what) Lovely Camp, own washup but shared the ablutions with one other couple. Swimming pool and super pub.
10th Oct. Warmquella (100km) another short trip,(Onogogo camp) and what an oasis we arrived over lots of cobbled stones over a river down a donga, and there was a waterfall. A little pool and trees and birds and it was just super. Saw our first Rosycheek Lovebirds. What a lovely place, probably one of our most memorable camp sites.
11th Sesfontein 30km and then 110km to Purris . Sesfontein is a dusty but rather photogenic town. In the earlier part of the century the german administrators made Sesfontein a military outpost and build a fort here with running water and extensive gardens to grow their supplies. However this was abandoned and recently a hotel chain has redone it, Very impressive, according to our book, the fort had camping and this is where we intended to stay, no such luck camping closed and had moved to a community centre which did not look too good, so Wolf had a breakfast, (R75,00) 2 Eggs, bacon, toast, tomato Juice and Coffee. They call it their mini Breakfast, Main Breakfast, R130.00 !!!!!!!!!!
Pushed on to Purris, (Road, Good! Bad! And Ugly!!) We arrived in what was the town, but hardly reconizable as that, sign off to the right, into and over a river bed. The campsites were all between trees, so nice to have no nearby neighbours, your own Shower and separate toilet and handbasin (Open air, just poles around) Own Wash up with hot water at the site. Lots of warnings about Elephant, “Don’t leave food around, as elephants are regularly in camp.” Thought they only did that for Monkeys/Baboons.Spent two days here, Highlight of the visit, was a visit to the Himba Villiage.
The Himba people split from the main Herero Group and moved to present-day Kaokland in search of available land. The places they found were mountainous, sparsely vegetated and very arid. Cattle are central to their way of life with the size of the herd an indication of wealth and prestige, but overgrazing of the poor soil is a major problem. So hence they move very often. The woman are amazing (or stupid) I don’t think I could have ever been one! In previous times, no children were educated, it was the choice of the parents, they could keep half their children at home and half could be educated. The females never bath. Their hygene consists of rubbing ochre (a stone which is crushed) on their bodies twice a day. It is mixed in some cases with flowers or Tamboti wood to give it a perfume. They do not work, the men have as many wives depending on how rich he is. (he visits from time to time) They are completely naked except for a leather “skirt” in front and the married ones have a headdress of sorts, (You need to see the pictures) All she seems to do, is to wait for the husband to visit, have children and sit around. There’s not much to clean, it is all sand. Their houses are wood surround, some are made with spaces between for sitting in the daytime and others are closed for sleeping. The roof is made with cow dung and clay. We were given a good guided tour by a really good guide, we were actually taken into one of the huts where this Himba women smoked and blew on tabbaco which gives off a quite nice smell, this is done when her husband is going to spend the night. The men wear normal clothes and the only time he is covered in ochre is when he spends the night with her.
In previous times they lived totally off the land but with the changes, specially schooling which is now compulsory.The children live in the viliages Monday to Friday and are educated. This I think brings about a urban type difference and they do not only live off the land. In this villiage they receive money from the visitors and also have a small stall, selling local products made from the seeds, flowers etc. eg necklaces, bracelets. You could even buy the skirt or headdress which the married woman wear.
On Saturday night we took our supper, candles, Wine (Our gift from Chandy & Tommy, Morgenster Special Vintage) down to the river bed (dry) but really beautiful in the sunset, and had a “romantic” (a bet that brought a smile to some of you who are reading this) evening. Sunday was spent trying to find the desert elephants again. Although plenty of spoor and tracks, we weren’t so lucky.
We left on the 13th October, for the unknown. We left at 8am thinking that we would get a site quite easily, the road, the time, were absolutely shocking. We went from Pothole to Pothole from one piece of road to one piece of track and in somecases WG made a new track. At one time we found a campsite, drove into it and straight out, 300km later and 9hours we came into Opuwo, the town looked just like the rest of the trip, awful. We chose the best spot in our Namibia hand book, which was the “Opuvo Country Hotel”. It was on top of a hill.
This was heaven, the campsite had “GRASS” and I had no intention of moving for a while. The nicest spot was the pool which looked like it ran over the top of the hill into nowhere. The bar, and restaurant were really good and we spent 4 days being absolutely lazy, swim, eat and drink. Wolf did manage to do an oil change on the car and I managed to download some work and send out some mail.
Left for Epupa Falls. 200km. The road was so much better that we managed to to the 200km in 3 and a half hours. Were recommended by some fellow travellers to stay at “Omerunga Camp, and ask forSite5, found the site right on the river, but did not manage to get but campsite 6. Wonderful stop for three days, had a super evening in the pub with three Swiss guys, King Arthur, Kurt, Robbie who is Rodger Federa’s Dad, his wife, Rodgers Mom is a South African whom he met in this country in 1968) What a night, one of those you will always
remember. Hopefully we will meet up with them if we get to Switzerland.
We drove into a valley (about 3km away, takes about 1 hour) wonderful bird life.
We drove 206km south first and then back up to Kuneyne River and found a really nice site, on the river, Kuneyne River Lodge. The birds were absolutely super but the poor owner had a torrid time with Monkeys. Wolf helped him out, did not need any encouragement, with his catty. Spent two days.
Left Wednesday the 22nd for Ruacana. The drive was very different, over the mountains, good vegetation, runs a lot of the way next to the river. A lovely change from all the sand and dust. 20km before Ruacana you come up to where the falls “were” The reason I say were, is because they have built a Hydro Electric Power Station and dam. Very seldom do they open the sluices, therefore the falls almost never run anymore. But from the rocks it must have been an awesome sight. To get to the falls, you need to go through the Namibian border (Staff very friendly and no papers necessary) into no mans land, the Angolan Custom guys, all came out gave us a look (they still carry rifles). The Power station supplies more than half of Namibia’s Power.
Ruacana is on the border of Angola and owes its existence to the Hydro Power Station. It is also the main road to Tsumeb and the east side of Etosha.. For us the highlight of Ruacana was a TARRED ROAD. After about 5000km of sand, sand and sand, it was absolute bliss. Wolfs smile didn’t let up for the next 20km, into Ruacana.
We stayed at o a hotel site, owned by the “Nampower Co.” (the electicity Supplier) What was good we could use their facilities, especially the pool, good exercise every day. We mainly used this for downloading and catching up on my work.
24th We left to go South via Oshakati visiting, a few sights on the way. Found a quite nice “farm” Sachenheim, where we camped and could visit Etosha coming in from the East at Namatoni. As we already have been in Etosha previously we were happy just to spend a day in the park. We were lucky to have seen hyena, Zebra Giraffe, Lion, Black Faced Impala, Wildebeest, springbok and more lion, Etosha never lets you down at one waterhole there were no less than 10 different animals, including some more lion. The birds were in abundance, I counted about 36 which I could identify, and lots which I couldn’t. (Merry you would have had at least 150) Thinking I was going to be disappointed and not see elephants, one of the last waterholes before leaving the park, there they were, 3 elies just for me We visited both Namatoni and Halali, much has changed, so I suppose the change in prices had to be attributed to something.
26th & 27th October, spent had Tsumeb, which was in the past a town which was dominated by mining of rich ore, for copper, zinc, lead, silver, and a variety of unusual crystals. Tsumeb’s one pipe had produced about 217 different minerals ond gemstones, 40 of which have been found nowhere else on earth. However in the late 1990 the mine closed. It has recently been reopened for specimen mining but this is not a fraction of what it used to be. We found the town to be quite attractive, with the wide clean streets lined with Jacaranda’s and Bougainvillea. The town seems to be expanding, with it being about 100km from Etosha and the town seems to be scoring from that. We visited Lake Otjikoto which was formed when the roof of a huge subterranean cave collapsed leaving an enormous sinkhole with steep sides. In 1915 a lot of weaponry was dumped into it by the retreating German military. A lot has been received by divers, but a lot is still at the bottom. No one actually knows the depth of the “lake”
Left on the 28th October for Rundu via Grootfontein where we visited the “Hoba Meteorite site” This famous lump of rock was discovered in 1920. It weighs about 50 tons and analysis suggests it is mostly iron (80%) and nickel. It has been declare a national monument. Some visitors have even tried chipping bits off for souvenirs. (380km)
We arrived in Rundu which is almost on the Okavonga River, we found a super site outside of town called Kaisosi River Lodge. We had our own private Ablutions and wash up facilities. We would have been happy to stay here for 5 days, which was the plan, as I had to do month end but unfortunately the only thing which spoilt this venue, was they had a flock of about 20 Peacocks/Peahens, what a noise, they just never stopped. Even at night they screamed. But it was lovely on the River, The Receptionists name was Charmaine, and true to her name was so obliging that when we left we wrote in their visitors book and gave her a tip. She was everywhere, in the bar, in the restaurant, in the office, A real gem. She took our email address and I do hope we hear from her. The river was too low so no boats could go out. So we pushed on a day early and went to Popa Falls, (283km)
31st October to the 3rd November. A lodge called Mahangu was recommended to us by a fellow traveller, It is based about 20km out of Popa Falls (where we had stayed with both the Maier families about 4 years ago). The site was the best ever, we were right on the Okavango River. Site wise this has to be the most memorable. If I had to choose a place to stay forever this would be it.
The only mornings which I chose to get up earlier than Wolf (Ha friends, all who know me will all raise their eyebrows here) The sun came up over the river, with the commorants, flying in formation like jets, even the sound was there, the only other sounds were the Hippo’s in the river, and the birds, especially the fish eagle, the Senegal cougal and the purple starling. What a wonderful wonderful spot. This is were I emailed some of you, that you realise God made this perfect land of ours, and the only people to spoil it must be Man.
We did a fishing and birding trip here on the lake, and poor Wolf had two strikes and one bite where the tiger fish, flew up and down and then managed to take hook and lure and disappear into the water. But much to my surprise and his I think that afternoon right from the campsite, (I had given up even thinking he could catch anything from the site) he caught his first tiger, all of about 2 and a half kg.
We did a trip into the Mahango National Park, Lovely day, saw lots of elephant dung but unfortunately no elies. Had nice sightings of Buffalo, reedbuck, kudus, red lechwe and even a few sitatunga. Of caurse, crocodiles and Hippos.
The birds were good and I managed to dock up a few more species to my list. The beeeaters up here are absolutely stunning and we were both managing to identify them in flight. We also did a trip to the Popa”Rapids”, they now have bridges over the water to get you closer to them. It was not marvellous but nice to see the water much higher than the time we visited with the Maiers.
I was very sorry to leave here, we had some quite nice bar evenings and even managed to see the last Formula 1 Grand Prix in the pub. At least I watched our Ferrari win the constructors and Massa lose the Drivers by such bad luck.
Our next stop should have been Camp Kwando on the Kwando River which the river is the border to Botswana We wanted to do a trip into the Muduma National Park, this did not pan out the way we wanted and we decided to push onto Katimo Mulilo. (445km)
This proved to be another good choice. We chose a camp called Kalizo Lodge about 30km out of Katimo Mulilo on the Zambezi River. Once again a super spot, a little windy, reminding us of the beginning of the trip. But once again, a really big smile on Wolf’s face when we took another boat trip,(birding and fishing) when he caught his second tiger weighing in at 5.5kilos. We were also treated to a lovely sight of a nesting site of Carmine beaters. They think there is about 4000 of them, one of the biggest records in the world.
While typing this, I have just persuaded Wolf (hey guys, turned and twisted his arm) to take another trip tomorrow out on the boat. This is really our last stop beside overnite in Botswana on the way home. Then we will stop with Merrie and Nigel and then home. Hopefully to prepare for the big trek next year. How much we have learnt from this trip remains to be seen, but what I promise to do, is I will be very careful to choose trips where the roads are less like the ones we have done in Namibia and sometimes not even worth it.
We will have done over 10,000 km by the time we reach home and more than half on sand roads, and at least half of that on “shit” (excuse the word) roads.
We would have put the tent up and down 24 or 25 times in 62 days. My very efficient driver has done all but 200km of our 10,000 (don’t let him get all the credit), I could have killed him a couple of times and the rosary has been shined many times over those kilometres (Wolf Maier will vouch for this.)
We had a good trip home and all ready for our North Journey through Africa.