TANZANIA
7th to 13th June, 2009
We left Malawi on the 7th entering through a very relaxed and easy border at Songwe, our intention was to stop directly over the border but we missed a turning and as it was quite early decided to push on to Mbeye. Going into Tanzania our time changed to one hour forward than SA. Not estimating the road conditions we arrived in Mbeya at about 6pm. This and having changed to “Tracks for Africa” from Garmin we were a little disorientated and got a bit lost after being recommended by a fellow traveller to stay at Karibuni (a mission which was in town and have camping and accommodation) After lots of “go there,go straight, turn this way and that way” instructions, we arrived at the “mission” what a find, decided on a room, clean with Mozzie net and bathroom, hot water for 20,000 shillings. At this point we were still calculating the changing rate, and convinced we were wrong, cost us R136.00 double room. We had a cold supper and went to bed. Next morning we went in for breakfast and after Wolf had paid the restaurant, out came the lady with our money for breakfast, “no no, breakfast is included in the Accommodation rate” What a nice start to Tanzania. 2nd nice surprise fuel dropped from R11.50 in Malawi to R8.50 in Tanzania.
We spent the next three nights stopping near Ruaha National Park, then onto Riverside camp site outside of Iringa and our intention was to stay just outside of Mikumi National Park, where the camp site is usually visited by quite a few animals from both Mikumi and Selous Parks. Again relying on “Tracks for Africa” (it does not give street names) we missed a turning, (nothing is well signposted in Tanzania) we ended up in Morogora and stayed at Mama’s hotel (Portuguese owned and run) unfortunately “Mama” died a year back and “Papa” is not so good, but we managed. Breakfast was a laugh, there were 5 of us in the dining room, and only three coffee cups. At least Wolf managed to get one and we shared. I got the giggles (not too bad, it was very early, 6.30am) and thought of Chandy’s face.
You might all ask here why we missed staying in the Parks, Tanzania parks are so expensive that you really need to choose some and leave the rest, we have decided to do Serengeti, Ngorogora Crator and Tarangire National Park. (they are all in the region of about $200 (US) per day (and this is camping)
Leaving this early was to get through Dar Es Salaam as early as possible, where we had to cross a ferry. Like any big city, 10km outside the traffic was as usual a nightmare. I was quite taken back when as we approached the city we saw street-sweepers and found the city not too bad. For all of us who have been to Mozambique, furniture, doors, plumbing supplies etc etc can be bought on the side of the road.
Approaching the ferry, again badly sign posted, we missed a hanging one way sign and ended up going down to the ferry with cars, bicycles, people all coming towards us. A policeman informing us of our violation and we will leave to your imagination, Wolf trying to deal with the policeman, trying to turn our car and trailer around with oncoming traffic in a one way street, no one giving way. (Viks another one of those stories for the campfire, now really funny)
Eventually we get into the right road, and there stands the policeman who took Wolf into an office, and fined us 20,000Schillings (R136) no receipt of coarse and a good laugh by policeman and Wolf. When going onto the ferry you are only allowed car and driver, passengers go separately into a cage, cars first, bicycles and motor bikes and then gate cage opens to let in passengers. I will again leave to your imagination my face as to the pushing and shoving and smell of that cage!!
Arrived at Mikado beach resort at about 2pm, not bad for only 220km!!!!!!!!!! (left at 6.40)
Spent two days, swimming on quite a nice beach, exploring a bit of Dar (on foot) organizing our trip to Zanzibar. (We really missed you Viks)
7th to 13th June, 2009
We left Malawi on the 7th entering through a very relaxed and easy border at Songwe, our intention was to stop directly over the border but we missed a turning and as it was quite early decided to push on to Mbeye. Going into Tanzania our time changed to one hour forward than SA. Not estimating the road conditions we arrived in Mbeya at about 6pm. This and having changed to “Tracks for Africa” from Garmin we were a little disorientated and got a bit lost after being recommended by a fellow traveller to stay at Karibuni (a mission which was in town and have camping and accommodation) After lots of “go there,go straight, turn this way and that way” instructions, we arrived at the “mission” what a find, decided on a room, clean with Mozzie net and bathroom, hot water for 20,000 shillings. At this point we were still calculating the changing rate, and convinced we were wrong, cost us R136.00 double room. We had a cold supper and went to bed. Next morning we went in for breakfast and after Wolf had paid the restaurant, out came the lady with our money for breakfast, “no no, breakfast is included in the Accommodation rate” What a nice start to Tanzania. 2nd nice surprise fuel dropped from R11.50 in Malawi to R8.50 in Tanzania.
We spent the next three nights stopping near Ruaha National Park, then onto Riverside camp site outside of Iringa and our intention was to stay just outside of Mikumi National Park, where the camp site is usually visited by quite a few animals from both Mikumi and Selous Parks. Again relying on “Tracks for Africa” (it does not give street names) we missed a turning, (nothing is well signposted in Tanzania) we ended up in Morogora and stayed at Mama’s hotel (Portuguese owned and run) unfortunately “Mama” died a year back and “Papa” is not so good, but we managed. Breakfast was a laugh, there were 5 of us in the dining room, and only three coffee cups. At least Wolf managed to get one and we shared. I got the giggles (not too bad, it was very early, 6.30am) and thought of Chandy’s face.
You might all ask here why we missed staying in the Parks, Tanzania parks are so expensive that you really need to choose some and leave the rest, we have decided to do Serengeti, Ngorogora Crator and Tarangire National Park. (they are all in the region of about $200 (US) per day (and this is camping)
Leaving this early was to get through Dar Es Salaam as early as possible, where we had to cross a ferry. Like any big city, 10km outside the traffic was as usual a nightmare. I was quite taken back when as we approached the city we saw street-sweepers and found the city not too bad. For all of us who have been to Mozambique, furniture, doors, plumbing supplies etc etc can be bought on the side of the road.
Approaching the ferry, again badly sign posted, we missed a hanging one way sign and ended up going down to the ferry with cars, bicycles, people all coming towards us. A policeman informing us of our violation and we will leave to your imagination, Wolf trying to deal with the policeman, trying to turn our car and trailer around with oncoming traffic in a one way street, no one giving way. (Viks another one of those stories for the campfire, now really funny)
Eventually we get into the right road, and there stands the policeman who took Wolf into an office, and fined us 20,000Schillings (R136) no receipt of coarse and a good laugh by policeman and Wolf. When going onto the ferry you are only allowed car and driver, passengers go separately into a cage, cars first, bicycles and motor bikes and then gate cage opens to let in passengers. I will again leave to your imagination my face as to the pushing and shoving and smell of that cage!!
Arrived at Mikado beach resort at about 2pm, not bad for only 220km!!!!!!!!!! (left at 6.40)
Spent two days, swimming on quite a nice beach, exploring a bit of Dar (on foot) organizing our trip to Zanzibar. (We really missed you Viks)
2 comments:
Hey Mr Wolf
Hope your trip's going well. We met in Dar es Salaam by the Selander bridge. I had a little Blue Toyota Starlet.
I admire your ambitions and adventurous attributes. Your write up about Tanzania leaves out a lot of all the places that can be very attractive to tourists. Especially ones with time to spare and their own transport. The Kilwa ruins and Bagamoyo town are just a few to mention. The scuba diving in those towns is just to die for.
I'm planning a road trip to South Africa (starting in Dar ending in Jo'burg) for the 2010 world cup. I hope you can share some insight into what the road conditions are like as well as any travel necessities regarding visa, medical etc. We will be using a Toyota Hiace minibus.
Great to have met you.
Mike
HiMike,
Pleased you have enjoyed reading our blog Yes you are quite right that we have left somethings out But we had to have choices, there was no possiblility to see everything. Also Scuba diving, we can do at home in SA, so we chose to do it later up North and see more of the Parks which we will never be able to do again. Please send us your email address so we can give you some insight to the road to SA as well as your nationality re the Visa. Once again thanks for your comments.
Wolf and Dawn
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