CAPE TO GERMANY

France,Spain & Portugal

2010-10-12T21:38:00.015+02:00

FRANCE SOUTH TO SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

12^th August to the 13^th October. 2010

While staying in Germany to do the rest of our admin work and selling the “winter home” we were fortunate enough to find a gem of a camp site, price wise and friendly wise. We stayed at Camping Leleveld, the owners going out of their way to help us with all we needed. A big thank you to them. After all our goodbyes, Nicole and Frank had a super braai for us with gifts of special T-shirts with our trip from Africa to Germany printed on them. Marina & Stefan were there and also gave us Brandy and good red wine to remember them. We spent two days with Rosie, (Uwe had left for S.A.) and we had two special dinners with her, and friends and of course Eva who always made time for us in her busy social life, and hopefully will be returning to S,A, in November 2011 with Uwe and Rosie for us to reciprocate all the hospitality we had in Germany and France. To be able to fit in goodbyes with Achim, Lena and Gordon we managed a breakfast in a little old town, Brueggen, where we had never been before and had a lovely time. All the goodbye’s were all hard and very emotional. Once again all those family and friends who made our 10months in Europe so special. We had decided we loved France and felt we had not enough so that was the way we were to travel south. We must at this point say that up to now everything was planned and what had needed to be visited, we had done most of. (Dawn of course) now we would just go with the flow and how we felt. We had seen lots of major towns, hundreds (according to Wolf) churches (Wolf says too many) and old buildings and actually lots of coast lines but we now would travel as the mood took, time took, and more than that balance it with the weather. We stayed over at a camp site at Dieppe, St Martin en Campagne, which was just about on the sea. A super walk over the hill to a lovely view of the northern France coast. The weather was not really good so the next morning, we had one of those late mornings before getting out seeing the area around us. We visited St Valery en Caux, Varengeville, Ste Marguerite , and a super drive all along the coast to Fe Camp. The city is closed in on the land side to the beach with long Alabaster (Limestone) walls. This is where the line of Alabaster walls start and stretches all the way to Etretat. (About 30km) Fe camp is also the city where the herb liquor, Benedictine is made. (Tom you have to remember those times) The whole coastline is really beautiful and you could spend days just stopping and walking. Sometimes you realize just how much you could do even staying in one place for a month. Even with bad weather the water was beautifully clear and so calm. But it was time to move south, leaving our campsite we went back down the coast line hoping to be able to have a long stop at Etretat. Here these walls of limestone reach unbelievable heights. The beach is completely pebbled and the North side is called “Falaise d’Amont and the south Falaise d’Avale. Both having the meaning of these huge mountains of limestone rocks. One side with a massive hole in the stone and is called “Manneporte” and is 90mt high. Also in Etretat there is a church, Notredam, built in 1100. Unfortunately due to the fact that they allow no parking for trailers, caravans or Motor homes in the city and where there was parking, it seemed the every tourist had decided on the same day as us. So with the parking problem we were unable to spend as much time as we would have liked. Not that this stopped Wolf driving into an area with a no go to car and trailer, stopping the traffic, causing a traffic jam and telling me to get out and take photos.!!!! After this we travelled south via Le Havre and over the famous bridge. This crosses the channel. As we had done some of this route before we headed for the direct highway route and down south, lower than we had been with the family, to a town called Isigny s Mer, on the border of Normandy and Brittany and on a small channel called Passe d’Isigny. We stayed at Le Fanal camp site. This is in the area of Calvados (something I got a liking for but not Wolf) It’s also the area of the Marais region. This brings me back many years, Marais being my first married name which was of coarse in SA very Afrikaans. Chandy decided that as her Afrikaans was not very good it was because she was of French decent. Somewhere in her studies she had learnt of the Marais region in France. Here we spent lots of time taking photos to take home to Chandy and having lots of laughs. Brittany seems to be thrust out into the Atlantic. France’s westernmost region and called Finistere, meaning “lands end” but its Breton name, Penn ar Bed, translates as ‘head of the world’. It’s long considered itself as a separate nation from the rest of France, with its own history and customs. Throw in some scenic coastline, windswept islands and the eeriest stone circles this side of Stonehenge and you have a really fascinating area. Carnac comprises of the world’s largest concentration of megalithic sites. There are more than 3000 of these upright stones scattered across the countryside. It was also here that we remembered what it was like to camp in rain for days, the heavens opened and it just never stopped. The next day we braved the rain and visited Utah Beach, where the monuments of the Normandy invasion were, and then to St Martin and to Ste Mere-Eglise, where a paratrooper during the invasions got stuck on a church tower for hours and today there is a puppet of a man in a parachute hanging in the same place. From there to St Vaast-la- Houge on the coast and then to Barfleu in the north and then going west onto Cherbourgh. Here is a large harbor and a lovely Basilica. The harbor was used for bringing in the allies and material for the Normandy invasion. From there we went to Cap de Hague, which is where the English Channel meets the Atlantic Ocean , then going south down the west coast to Cap de Carteret and back to the campsite. A really wet but interesting day. Not as much time out of the car as we would have liked. Next day took us to St Lo, a little city which was 80% destroyed in the Normandy Invasion and therefore a lot of the town is now quite modern. Very different from most of the towns and villages we had visited in France. Just outside town at a place called Marigny, a military cemetery. Originally this was a section of war graves where American soldiers who fell in this region near Marigny in 1945/46 were buried. The American dead were relocated to the graveyards of St Laurent-sur-Mer in 1957. The reburial services of the German War Graves were relocated from numerous small graveyards to this military graveyard in 1958. There was a register which listed the names of the men buried there and we were quite interested to find one Gutmann and one Schertel, but the Christian names were not ones we recognized. We then visited Carentan a little port town with a really old city, a lovely old church and cobbled street. We had a lunch of their famous “Crepes” (made with buckwheat flour) and of course French red wine to go with. What a choice!!!! More rain the next day, just shopped and had lunch at a lovely little restaurant on the sea at Grandcamp Maisy. We packed up next day, wet tent but lovely sun for the first time in 4 days and travelled down to the west coast and settled at Cancale, at a super campsite, Camping Le Bois, Pastel. This was a centre point between St Malo and Le Mont Michel which were the areas we wanted to see. We visited lots of the areas around us and one of the days which will always be remembered, we ended up at a ”Factory of Sea Food” You pick up your choice from the trays of fish on ice, take it along to a Chef who weighs cleans and cooks your meal. You have to see the photos of where you sit to eat. Looks just like a fish factory and smells like one too. But fresher fish not possible. Reminded us a lot of the first time we visited the West Coast and had fish cooked in ovens on the beach. Really different. Next day took us to visit St Malo, a pretty port, with one of the most beautiful colored sea. The sea is so briny blue (green for me) and was a key harbour during the 17^th and 18^th centuries. St Malo was named after Welsh monk Mac Low, who around the 6^th century established his bishopric here, a stone throws away from the rock where the walled city now stands. It’s now a busy cross Channel, ferry port which goes to Portsmouth, and to some of the Channel Islands. The old city is completely walled. Thanks to the seafarers and merchant ship owners, who commissioned vessels to Eastern Indies, China, Africa and the Americas, the City enjoyed prosperity in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. In 1944 the battles devastated the town and destroyed the walled city. But from those preserved and restored ruins, St Malo rose again, thanks to a careful and conscious reconstruction design. The inner Courtyard of the town houses Chateaubriand’s birth place. (Picture Posted) The house of Poets and Writers built in the early 17^th century were designed by naval architects and built with recycled ship materials. Although the walls and castle were spared by the 1944 destruction, three quarters of the city had to be rebuilt, the same front walls rebuilt exactly as they were under the auspices of the French Directorate. We saw the St Vincent Cathedral which began in the 12^th century and although partly destroyed very carefully restored. It has the most outstanding stained glass windows. The old city is just a wonderful walkways of little streets and old houses, all restored. After our visit to St Malo we went onto little towns of St Briac, St Quay Portrieux, a fish harbor and had a super lunch, and then into Paimpol and the Ile de Brehat, a very lovely and rocky beach with the most beautiful clear green waters. We sat on rocks way above the sea with unbelievable views of the water. Leaving the next day we drove down via Rennies and Nantes and La Rochell and onto an Ile De Re over a bridge of a couple of kilometers. (Picture posted) The island is 85 sq km. It’s an island with quite a history. In 1625 in the reign of Louis XIII Protestants seized the island. Two years later the Catholic Cardinal de Richelieu decided to besiege Lar Rochelle, the last stronghold in which the Huguenots were entrenched. Many battles were between the French and the English, and very few won by the French so this victory is mentioned quite a bit in the history of the island. On this small island there were 650 ha vines planted in the south of the island and today produce between 35 to 40 hectoliters of wine that is about 2 million bottles per year. A particular grape variety is grown for a fine Cognac production. It is said to have 7 different types of soils, a very fertile land and has a sunny climate very favorable to vineyards. We camped at one of the furtherest points at the top of the island, at St Clement des Baleines on a camp site Le Cote Salvage, and had a camp site about 100 mts from a lovely beach. Spent a few days on the beach and also visiting the closest points of interest especially the fish shop, for oysters and more oysters. Also the home of fine salt productions. The old little quaint villages and front water cafes. Lots of walking and just enjoying the island. We only left island because the sun left the island!!!! On our way out, stopped for our daily purchase of Oysters. We then again down the coast line via Bordeaux, picked up some famous Bordeaux red wine (Uwe we did listen to you) and then further south to Biscarrosa Beach, to Pilat Plage ( Plage means beach) across from Cap Ferret to a camp site on the dunes, called Le Petit Nice, at Pyla Sur Mer. A favorite for Parasailing and super walks but high up and down over the dunes.(Picture Posted) On Sunday the 5^th my best friend from White River, Maureen died, so this little place will be ever in my mind. I could take myself to the beach and look over the sea and remember all the good times. Maureen loved the sea, and I could just see her in every wave. A really, really hard time for both of us. Later it all became a reason for us to go home earlier than planned. We left two days later driving south via Bayonne, stopping to buy Bayonne Ham, again another recommendation from Uwe and really good. Our mileage in France 3000km and 15days. Then into Spain at San Sebastian to Bilboa and then to Laredo. Another two days of rain and the wind that was unbelievable. We sat in the pub and watched our tent nearly blow away into the Gulf of Biscay. But super anyway and again lots of walks, churches, and our first Paella and Sangria. The town is like Durbs by the sea but wind, wind and wind. Campsite was called Playa Del Regaton. After leaving here we drove along the coast line via Gijon, and to Ribadeo and found a campsite on a little hill overlooking the beach, called Played De Reinante. What a super find, the people were so friendly and told us immediately, noise on Friday, Music and dancing from 11pm till 3 am. We said no problem we will join them. At 11.30pm and no noise yet we thought we had the wrong day or time, but no, at about midnight, starts the band, music, dancing and lots of drinking. Unfortunately no brandy, Wolf ends up drinking Spanish Dark Rum and Coke. Well needless to say we don’t have to explain how he felt the next day. Got to bed at 3.30 and slept most of the next day. The beach is called Cathedral’s Beach whose traditional name is Holy Water Beach. It is a natural monument modelled by the sea. Twice a day during the low tides, allow you to go deep into its ways and rocks, always in constant change with the tides. The shaping of this monument took place thousands of years ago. Within this general scenery, Holy Water beach becomes a really unique place. The quality of the rocks and the layout and orientation of its strata make it weak because of the regular large waves of the sea. This weakness is visible in the shape of the cliff itself, which is in a constant backward movement. This shows a landscape characterized by the toughest rocks, arranged in a striking succession of columns, arcades, mazes and “eyes” (as they are called) of significant height and depth. Meanwhile, along the beach, the remains of what was originally the cliff come into sight with the aspect of stone pans full of crystalline waters. The extent of the slabs and black flagstones, the light filtered through the spaces of the wet rocks, the contrasts with the white sand all justify the traditional names of Holy Water Beach and Cathedral’s Beach. Here you need to see the pictures to tell the story. The area from our Camp Site to the town of Ribadeo follows a route along the beaches of rocks and small villages from the late 14th and early 15^th century and has many different sights, historic ports, Old buildings, and beautiful rocky beaches. One such place is Rinlo, a traditional sailing village on a narrow sheltered part of the coast and was famous for the quality of seafood especially lobsters. Here the first cetaria for the intensive growing of lobsters and spider crabs. The cetaria’s are complex installations because they must be put up in specific coastal places, both open and protected. Ribedeo is a city with many forts, an old palace, convents and lovely churches and chapels. (more for Dawn) Sunday we packed up feeling a bit better after our Friday party and followed our route down south to Santiago Compenstella. Here we had to camp near the city, with at least a chance of being able to catch a bus into the city, parking in these cities always difficult. Santiago, the “City of the Apostle” which is, along with Rome and Jerusalem, Santiago, one of the three most important centers of Christianity. It is a city of enormous wealth. Its stones, carved out by the joint actual of man and nature over the centuries, becomes art to move us with the spirituality with which it is imbued for. Santiago de Compostela is a city built around the tomb of the Apostle Saint James. The beauty and splendid artistic heritage is enhanced even further by the constant of the Galician scenery. The city stands on a hill with a height of 400metres and is 30kilometres from the sea. The origins of the city go back to the year 813 when the discovery of the tomb of Saint James was made. According to legend, the hermit Paio saw strange lights in the form of stars over the hill of Libredo, an old Roman fortress. This unusual sighting was reported to Bishop Theudemirus who discovered on the site a funeral monument containing the bodies of the Apostle and two of his disciples. It seems that in the year 44 AD, after preaching in Spain, James was martyred and his head cut off in Palestine by the Jews. His followers decided to place his mortal remains on a ship and head for Galicia. It was buried on the site on which the city now stands. Again it is an old city of many different places to see. Always having to choose, (Wolf definitely would not look at everything.) First choice was the cathedral where the remains of St James was kept (a story to follow) and The church of San Martin Pinario, one of the finest examples of Baroque. The entrance is an unusual descent of a flight of steps. The church has a ground plan of a Latin cross. The interior is richly-ornamentented with a high altarpiece by various artists. The organs, choir stalls, sacristy and various chapels all of baroque art make this an unbelievable sight. The ceilings just unbelievable. Other sights we saw were, the Convent of Santa Clara, and the church of St Miguel dos Agros and lots of the little streets walking through the old city. It is a city very similar to Du Brovnik in Croatia, where you need more than a guide book to understand and visit the right things. Now for the story of the Cathedral. I knew from my Europe book that you had to queue for visiting the place where St James’s casket was but that’s all I knew. We arrive at the main Plaza, 10am in the morning and see this queue to the main doors. Asking the guards, is this the queue for the cathedral, yes, yes is the answer, after 1 and half hours we get into the cathedral only to find it is only one of the many entrances, the special part is that it is the one to the “Crypt of the Glory Portal” and was built for the veneration and worship of the St, a statue of whom presides over the entrance. Entering through here is what is considered the most precious jewel of Romanesque art. The Portico de la Gloria, a magnificent sculptural work of a famous maestro, Mateo. It consists of three archways corresponding to the nave and aisles of the cathedral. You only get to go through one, the central arch which is divided by the mullion, and made up by two columns supported by a single base. In the middle of these is the statue of James, here by tradition you carry out two rituals. One to place your hand on the feet and make a wish and the second those who wish to increase their intelligence, who should give their heads a bang three times against the statue of the “Santo dos Croques” traditionally said to be representation of the maestro Mateo. Now this is the way we went, (not the head banging though) super for the visit to the statue but you find after this you go down into the crypt for a few of the casket of remains of St James, you find yourself outside the cathedral and to gain entry to see the next part, and the main part you join another queue which looked as long as the first. There was no chance I was been given the chance of seeing inside again. One look at Wolf’s face was enough for that. Ok, to reach the compromise I get to buy a good instruction book and photos to see and understand the rest. I must admit I could spend a week in the city to see and understand it all. But when you have a partner, where “enough is enough” you have to compromise. But a city any Christian should visit. Picture Posted. Tuesday took us down the coast to just outside Vigo a little beach town called Playa Bayona, campsite Bayona Plage. I wanted to be in church for 11am, the time of Maureen’s funeral. Coincidence, we find a church and there was a mass that day at 11am as it was the feast of “Triumph of the Cross” So I got to spend an hour at mass, the same time as Mass was in White River for Maureen. I got to say goodbye in my own little world in a lovely small Spanish church saying my own goodbyes. “A Friend Never Forgotten” From this area we did some homework with a Spanish Shipping company to ensure that we could compare our prices with the German shippers to our journey home. At this point I also started worrying about home, friends and family, I know this was because of Maureen but I also know we had been away from home almost 18months and everyone we had met on our travels had these feelings on their trips, but we decided to open our options, home via West Coast, via East coast starting at Kenya and then finally a thought about going straight to Cape town. (Our decision comes later) We had met some super Portuguese people who had given us advice as to travel in Portugal. It’s always nice to get is from a local perspective and not only a touristic view. On this advice we crossed into Portugal at the Tui Border into Valenco. At this point we had covered 1122 km and spent 10 days in the North of Spain We went directly inland to Geres-Terras de Boura. This is a mountainous area, complete with forests, lakes and nature. Crossed by the Calvado and Hornern rivers and with the Peneda-Geres National Park as background scenery here, the environment is a way of life and completely different from the coastline. We stayed at Campismo De Cerdeira. Quite rustic and in the middle of the forest. By now the tourist sites much emptier and also better rates for camping and food which does make our budget even out from the previous weeks. From here we visited the Ria Calda area, one of the towns, S.Bento da Porta Aberta. Bento means Benedict in English and now of course our Pope is Benedict so the town has a sort of famous feel to it. Also a town where many people have been healed. In the local Shop/Museam are the crutches, corsets and other items which people had been using/wearing and after being cured and had discarded them. For a little of the history, the centennial temple is known for the unmatchable devotion of thousands of pilgrims that every year arrive from all around. A place where stopping obligatory, here one sees and feels the beliefs of a people on their daily and nightly vigils. A tradition tied to March 21^st and July 11^th but especially from August 10^th to the 15^th where religious and profane give hands during one of the municipalities largest festivities. To cope with the hundreds and thousands of pilgrims, a new church has been built aside from the one which has been used over the years. (Picture Posted) The surrounding park is a giant amphitheatre of nature, where the purest of natural resources remain intact. As well as a variety of fauna and flora it is home to wild horses, boars, wolves and badgers and a few others. We did see the horses but not having the choice of riding around at night we had to believe in the rest of the animals around. . Our first of many “Prado de Dia” this means plate of the day, it usually includes a main course, soup, wine of the house and a sweet and coffee and costs between 4 and 7 euro. This meant we could eat and drink at lunch time at what was really good value. We decided to give the normal next stop, Porto a miss because this is where the car should be shipped out mid October and we would to the area on our return. We took the highway south and back to the coast. Stopping just north of Nazare (Nazareth in English) and stayed, at a campsite called Vale Paraiso Camping. From here we visited a town called Sitio, quite a little religious town on a big square all selling religious artifacts, the church really lovely, and it’s all on a high hill overlooking the town of Nazare. The little town is a warren of narrow cobbled lanes running down to a wide cliff-backed beach. It is the most picturesque coastal resort. The town centre is full of seafood restaurants, bars and local women in traditional dress. Went to the local beautiful church, had a lovely walk and then had a super Portuguese seafood lunch. During lunch, we heard not only English voices but with SA accents. Lovely just to chat with a common denominator. They were from Jhb but have a home in Portugal and spend the SA winter time here. (Pic ture posted) The next day we took a drive to Martinho De Porto, via Foz da Arelho to Obidos,(Picture Posted) a little walled in village but a real difference; it was given as a gift from Dom Dinis to his wife Dona Isabel as a wedding gift. What a present!!!! . and onto Peniche, super beach resort and then to Caldas de Rainha. Had lunch for Euro12 including our wine!! Could holiday in Portugal more often. Our camp site was really good and combined with the sun managed a few afternoons at the pool and managed to work on keeping our “sun Tan” Travelled south to Sesimbra via the inland route over Lisbon (We thought Lisbon our stop over for the route back up) We camped on a hill overlooking the sea, Campsite called Forte Do Cavalo. For the next few days did lots of walking and visiting the churches, buildings, etc. and enjoying the Portuguese food and wine. Leaving the south we went back up via Lisbon to Alenquer and from here visited Sintra, and picked up our new Carnet papers from Bernadette who had so kindly brought them from SA for us. Sintra: Lord Byron called this hilltop town a ‘glorius Eden; and it must be wonderful in the evening, a magical view of castles and lights. Unfortunately we never got to see it at night. Sintra was the traditional summer retreat of Portugal’s kings. Today it is a fairytale setting of stunning palaces and manors surrounded by rolling green countryside. Again we had to choose what to see, (much too much for Wolf G) Our choice was Quinta da Regaleira. We spent about 4 hours just walking about in and out, we never saw the whole building and gardens, and Wolf estimates maybe 70%. You could visit this area and do one castle a day and there are about 4. It is a world heritage site and as an early 20^th century neo-Manueline extravaganza is an unbelievable site. I will start with the description of the garden: It is an image of the Cosmos and reveled through a succession of magic and mysterious places. The quest for paradise is found in coexistence with a mundus inferus- such as Dante’s inferno – through which the candidate for initiation is led by Ariadne’s thread. Various scenes from the initiate’s journey appear along the way of the vera peregrinatio mundi through a symbolic garden where we can feel the Harmony of the Spheres and examine the perspective of an ascetic conscience by analogy to the metaphysical quest for the Being that is found in the great Epics. In these realms abound references to the worlds of mythology to Olympus, Virgil, Dante, Milton and Camoes, and to the mission of the Templars as continued by the Order of Christ, to great mystics and miraculous magicians, and to the enigmas of the alchemical Ars Magna. This symphony in Stone - crafted by the builders of the Temples, steeped in the true spirit of Tradition – reveals the poetic and prophetic dimension of a Lusitanian Philosophical Mansion. Ok, now after a description like that, how do I describe the gardens, I won’t, I’ll just leave it to the imagination, (I don’t have one like that) and wait for some of the pictures. Now the buildings: The main “BUILDING!! HOUSE!! Whatever, is of three stories high and two going down into the basements. 1^st floor was for the private family bedrooms, study and nursery, 2^nd Floor, There is the Octagonal turret and other than this and the study the second floor is all bedrooms and storerooms. 3^rd Floor A neo-mediaeval tower at the northern corner of the house containing a private study for the owner with a connecting stairway to a laboratory and the roof terraces. The lower two floors were dedicated to kitchens, larders and scullery, also an ironing room, boiler, dormitory and refectory. Now for the ground floor: The magnificent decorations of these rooms of this floor were inspired by the maueline, renaissance and baroque periods. 1. Renaissance Hall, Former drawing room, decorated in Italian Renaissance style. There are Iconographic references to Carvalho Monteiro and his wife Perpetua Augusta. 2. Stairway and Hall, a spacious area for circulation formerly occupied by an impressive stairway carved from the wood of chestnut trees. 3. Porch. Quixotic decoration, carved in Coimbra limestone, suggests the age of Portuguese discoveries and epitomizes the idea of a journey. 4, Hunting Room, the dining room is overwhelmed by the massive fireplace that supports a statue of a woodsman. The mantelpiece depicts hunting scenes that are exceptionally well carved. The theme of the “cycle of life” is evident throughout the room: from the Venetian mosaic floor to the carvings of the ceiling. Now by trying to explain the “Castle or main House” you can try and imagine the rest. We were really overwhelmed with it all. In the grounds there was, their own little chapel, Terrace of the Gods, the Labyrinthic Grotto, the Cave of the Orient ( an entrance to a tunnel to get to various parts of the grounds), the Tennis Court!!!!!, The Regaleira tower, Lake 1 Waterfall, and etc, etc and etc. a definite for anyone visiting Portugal. (Pictures posted) The area where we stayed was a super wine area and quite nice campsite overlooking the hills of vines. Campsite called Alenquer camping. Then left northwards, still staying inland to Tomar. Here staying at Camping Rotondo. This site needs a special mention, one of those camp sites and owners which we will never forget. Gejs and Carlos and the missing Linda (wife of Gejs who was visiting her family in Scotland) What a wonderful hospitality. Super bar, each evening our coffee, with Port for Dawn and 1920 for Wolf. Brought all the Mozambique memories for us. Our reason for this area, 1. Fatima, and 2. Tomar Fatima: For me one of my highlights of Europe, there were only 3 on my list and due to visa problems, the first two were not realized so I made sure this one would be the best and for me and it was. Fatima was a place where on 13^th May, 1917 three children were pasturing their little flock in the Cova da Iria, parish of Fatima and town of Vila Nova de Ourem. They were called Lucia aged 10, Francisco aged 8 and Jacinta aged 7. They had prayed their Rosary as was their custom and amusing themselves when they saw a brilliant light and thinking it to be lightning they decided to go home. But as they were down the slope they saw on the top of a holmoak, (where the chapel of Apparitions now stands) a Lady more brilliant than the sun and from her hands hung a white rosary. The Lady told the three little shepherds that it was necessary to pray much and invited them to return to the place during the five consecutive months on the 13^th day at the same hour. This the children did and so on the 13^th day of June, July, September and October the Lady appeared to them again. On the 19^th of August the apparition took place at Valinhos about 500 metres from Aljustrel, because on the 13^th the children had been carried off by the local Administrator to Vila Nova de Ourem. The last apparition on October 13^th with about 70,000 people present the Lady said to them that she was the “Lady of the Rosary” and that a chapel was to be built there in her honour. After the apparition all present witnessed the miracle promised to the three children in July and September: the sun, resembling a silver disc, could be gazed at without difficulty and whirling on itself like a wheel of fire, it seemed about to fall upon the earth. Afterwards Lucia now a Religious Sister of Saint Dorothy, Our Lady appeared to her again in Spain on 10 December 1925 and 15 February 1926 in the convent of Pontevedra and again on the night of 13/14 June, 1929 in the Convent of Tuy always requesting the devotion to the five first Saturdays, (to pray the Rosary and to meditate on the mysteries of the Rosary. Since 1917 pilgrims have not ceased to come in thousands upon thousands from all parts of the world, at first only on the 13^th of the months of the apparitions but now more and more on any day all year round. For me it was an experience I will never forget. The whole “piazza” and the Chapel of Apparitions, this is the very heart of the Sanctuary. It was the first constructed in the Cova da Iria, at the place of the Apparitions. The exact spot is marked by a marble pillar on which the Statue of our Lady is placed; the Lady of Sorrows Chapel, this is where hundreds and hundreds of candles are burnt every day for prayers for the sick: The Basilica, built between 1928 and completed and consecrated on 7 October, 1953. It has 15 alters dedicated to the 15 mysteries of the Rosary. The painting above the high altar depicts the Message of Our Lady to the little shepherds, prepared by the Angel of Portugal. Scenes of the apparitions are represented in stained glass as well as invocations from the Litany of Our Lady. In the four corners of the Basilica interior are placed the statues of the great apostles of the Rosary and the devotion to the Immaculate Heart of Mary, St Anthony Claret, St Dominic of Gusman, St John Eudes and St Stephen, King of Hungary. The Tombs of Fransisco and Jacinta are in the Basilica. The monumental organ mounted in 1952 has about 12 thousand pipes. and lastly the new church, The Most Holy Trinity Church” which was built because of the need for a larger covered area as the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima, consecrated in 1953 could not accommodate all the pilgrims, especially on Sundays and on special celebrations. The idea started in 1973 and it was only in the year 1996 that the final plans were elaborated for its construction. Construction began in Feb 2004 and the corner stone laid on the 6^th June, 2004 and only on the 12^th October was the church consecrated. Our visit to the area started in the morning, first visiting the Chapel of Apparitions, and the Lady of Sorrows Chapel and then the Basilica we found out there was to be an English mass at 3pm. We then visited the little town around, had lunch and then went back for mass. For me again something I will not forget. (Picture posted) 2. Tomar: A charming town straddling a river, Tamar has the notoriety of being home to the Knights Templar. The castle was a hill high above the city. It consisted of 3 floors. It’s one of the masterpieces of Portuguese Architecture. The whole area is about 45 hectares. 5 hectares is the castle. It was made up of hundreds of rooms where novices of the templar’s were housed and trained. The master of the Templar order was Gualdim Pais and with Alfonso Henriques who was the first Portuguese King decided on the place and how it was to be built. In the middle of the castle is a beautiful church with a centre piece of indescribable beauty. The original name of the church from the templar’s was called Charola. Unfortunately our information sheet was all in German and the direct translations from German to English was just too much for my translator, (Wolf) I will have to do some internet search for the correct wording. But the areas, from the rooms, kitchens, places of prayer and areas where food was prepared for the poor. The graveyard area. Again this castle took us about 3 hours to see it all. Our camp site was so comfortable and “geselig” that we extended our original stay of 2days, to 3 and eventually to 5 days, and if it was not for the weather turning a little, the fact we had to get to Vigo for the transport details, we would probably still be there. Thank you Carlos and Gejs for a memorable and wonderful stay. Thank you for the home made Olive Oil. It will be used in SA and every meal prepared from it will be a reminder of our time with you both. From Tomar we moved north back to the coast and to the harbor town of Porto. We found ourselves a good positioned camp site at Orbiture Madalena, Villa Nova De Gaia about 10km outside of the city of Porto. Again an easy bus trip to the city. We chose to do the tourist thing and took a combined bus/boat/Port wine tasting tour all in one. Always a treat for Wolf, especially that all the port tasting and lunch with wine was not a problem for driving. Porto is at the mouth of the Rio Douro River, (comes all the way from Spain) the hilly city of Porto presents a jumble of styles, eras and attitudes. The narrow medieval alleyways, extravagant baroque churches, prim little squares and wide boulevards. Porto’s old world river frontage district is a World Heritage site. Across the water twinkle the neon sights of the Vila Nova de Gaia, the headquarters of the major port manufacturers (Port meaning alcohol Port, just in case you think it might have something to do with Ships instead) The city clings to the north bank of the Douro River and spanned by five bridges across from Vila Nova de Gaia. The picturesque Ribeira district lies along the waterfront in the shadow of the great Ponte de Dom Luis I bridge. By doing the bus trip, really the lazy way and the way Wolf would like to see every city; we had earphones to tell us of all the sights, places and history. Unfortunately, I got a lot on video but not in my mind, it all went too fast. But a very happy husband. From there we had a super lunch, and then the boat trip along both water fronts and down to see all five bridges. From there we went back and did a very interesting Port Wine tour, tasting included. As we were still a bit mystified by normal ports, LBP (late bottled) and then the vintages, we took ourselves off to a little shop in the village and had a free lesson on Port and what was good, bad and not necessary and then even give a tasting of what we wanted. What a lovely day, I must admit I am hooked and don’t know how to finish an evening without my daily dose of Port. We then went back to the camp site to have the worst rain in weeks and our tent was drenched. With needing to pack up the next day, we decided to take one of the camp site tents, and try and dry ourselves out for the trip up North. This was really a good idea and from there we traveled to the northern border of Portugal to a super campsite at Orbiture Caminha, From here we went onto Vigo and sorted out trip car and trailer leaving on Wednesday 13October and us onto Valencia and visiting Wolfgang Maasfeller and then onto Mallorca for 8 days. After this we fly via Johannesburg to Cape Town. Just to catch up here, after much deliberation we decided to ship the car from Vigo in Spain, direct to Cape Town. Our total km for Portugal 2052 Km and 28 days.

Follow up with blog to Valencia, Spain and Mallorca for 8 days and then HOME

FRANCE

2010-08-16T09:58:00.010+02:00

14 July – 12 August, 2010
This was not a country on our list to do. Both of us had visited France before and neither of us really impressed enough to do a revisit. The reason for us choosing is as a destination in our travel was our friends, UWE AND ROSIE who were going on their annual holiday to Normandy and spoke so well of the region we decided that we would like to see an area where they had spent their annual holiday for the past 10 years. With the dates coinciding with our return from Scotland we spent two weeks with Uwe and Rosie in the heart of the Normandy, taking Jim (our grandchild) with and then encouraging Nicole and Frank to join us for a further two weeks on the coast, this giving us a month altogether. We never expected what we got,
NORMANDY WAS WONDERFUL – THE DEFINITION …………….

UWE & FOOD = OUR EXPERIENCE OF THE FRENCH PEOPLE AND NORMANDY CUISINE

We were introduced to life in Normandy by being able to be part of a family. Like all visits to a country it was lovely to be staying within a local community. Uwe and Rosie rent a home, outside of a small village called St Pierre-s-Dives. It is part of a family Bed and Breakfast establishment and the home belonging to Aneke Duhamel. Many years back she and her husband owned a hotel which had 40 beds. It was lovely to be able to chat to her with that common denominator! They sold the hotel and bought a very old, old Farm House with a lovely view. The view is what sold it, lots of love and tender care, and many heartaches and lots of money they transformed this old derelict farmhouse to a lovely warm home with 5 bedrooms (all en suite) and two additional separate apartments. One of these is where Uwe and Rosie spend their annual July holiday. They have just become her extended family and by the time we left we felt very close to this wonderful French lady. We saw all the photos of what they bought and the changes made. We also were introduced to their super neighbors, also “an Anike” and her husband who had recently inherited an old house (150years old) complete with the old furniture, books, linen, etc etc. It looked like a museum. (Complete with spider webs and dust.) The lady who had bequeathed it to her, was 90years old and had no children and left it because of being assisted in her later years with sorting her finances and banking etc by Aneke (what compensation!!!!) For at least an hour after visiting, I was completely speechless. (Yes all you know me; I was really speechless, not many times in my life as this ever happened.)
Our location was 40km from the beach, and most days we managed a visit to the beach added to that a visit to all the local and even further away places of interest. We were blessed with a super “Free French” guide. We saw the best places with all the “need to knows”
All the drives in and around the area and on the way to the beach are through little towns with lots of “French Chateau’s” and lots of 13th – 18th century buildings, wooden-framed Norman style houses. The area is also famous for the training of horses, so lots of lovely green farms with horses and foals, sheep, cows etc. Narrow, windy roads lined with trees and lovely old buildings. All the little towns have at least one old church, and lots little cobbled streets with a lot of arty shops, art galeries and museums. Each evening returning to our “Utopia” for wonderful French food. Always, snacks and “Aperitifs” then a starter, could be Jacques Mussels, different seafood aperitifs or even some cold meats, sometimes just a break would have been good, but No, No, that’s not how the French do it. Then follows the main course, most days, fresh fish or seafood, more than once really good beef or ribs of sorts. Then break time and the cheese, cheese and cheese served with Baguettes and after this follow a pudding, e.g. Crème Brule etc and then coffee. Of course it is always accompanied by good white or red French wine. Sometimes both. Liquors, especially Calvados, and Ricard in plentiful supply.
While on our travels here we visited the towns of:
1. Deauville,- The place to be for your holiday if you are a Parisian returning from your holiday You had to have visited Deauville; Gold drips off the ladies, they could drown if they swam from the weight. Just to sit on the street Café’s and watch is an experience all on its own.
2. Bayeux, Famous for a tapestry which recounts the conquest of England from a Norman perspective. Fifty eight scenes fill the central canvas, while religious allegories and depictions of everyday 11th century life fill the borders. The final showdown at the Battle of Hastings is depicted in graphic fashion, complete with severed limbs and decapitated heads in the last 52nd scene. It evens includes one scene with Hailey’s Comet blazing across the sky in 1066. It is believed that the 68.3 mt long tapestry was commissioned by the Bishop Odo of Bayeux who was William the Conqueror’s half brother, for the opening of the Bayeux Cathedral in 1077. The viewing of the tapestry is done with translations in most languages by way of a radio. Added to this was the wonderful Norman Gothic Cathedral, Notre Dame which dates from the 11th to the 13th Century. Close by at Arromanche, a small seaside town is part of the D-Day landings. Code Named “Operation Overlord” was the largest military operation in history. Early on 6th June 1944, Allied troops stormed ashore along the 80km of beaches north of Bayeux. The beaches now known as Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword. The most brutal fight taking place on Omaha Beach. To make it possible to unload cargo without having to capture one of the heavily defended ports, the Allies established two prefabricated breakwaters, one of which can still be viewed at low tide in this seaside town. It is a wonderful and historical super trip down the coast visiting it all and going back into history. Amazing what you learn at school and bored to tears with, you see and enjoy at this later time.
3. LISEAUX- Famous mainly from the Saint Theresa. (She was born in 1873, entered the convent at the age of 15 and died in 1897 at the young age of 24 of Tuberculoses. Because of her memoirs published after her death and translated into more than 60 languages, she quickly became known and venerated throughout the whole world. In “Story of a Soul” Theresa explains her “little way” to holiness, not by sacrifices but by the monotony of little acts offered to God through love. In 1925, she was declared a Saint and two years later was proclaimed Patroness of the Missions. She is also the Secondary Patroness of France. Adding to this lovely city there is a Basilica, a church, one of the greatest of the 20th Century. Its construction began in 1929 and was only consecrated in 1954. Its walls and those of the crypt are covered with mosaics which reflect Saint Therese’s message based on love and trust in the Good God’s infinite love. Situated in the part of the church beneath the dome is the reliquary containing the bones from Saint Therese’s right arm. There is a Cathedral of Saint Pierre, from the 12th & 13th century. Also in the city is Therese’s family residence from 1877. The Carmel chapel contains the tomb of St Theresa. She is represented there lying on her deathbed wearing the habit of the Carmelite order. A Museum of Art and History. The St Germain De Livet Caster also from the 15th and 16th Century.
4. HONFLEUR – Is an old harbor town, the harbor filled with lots of yachts and fancy boats. To enter or exit the small harbor, the road-bridge must be lifted, giving access to the boats but of course stopping the traffic. Seeing the amount of traffic on the road, quite something while the boats have the right of way and the traffic comes to a halt. Around the old port, there are lots of little shops, restaurants, street cafes, museums and art shops. 500 years ago the explorers started from this port. Today it is a very big fish harbor, with Fish and Seafood available from the markets in abundance. The street which you enter into the town is amazing, an avenue of trees and flowers on all sides.
For me, other highlights of our first two weeks, was being taken by Aneke,(a fellow catholic), to the local churches, one of which was an open air mass, one gospel evening done by Caribbean Singers who were part of a supporting group to visiting musicals. Another evening Rosi and I went with her to a “Festival Musique” an evening of music on “Flute et deux harpes) (Harps) this was held in a local old church and the acoustics just unbelievable. I have to mention again, our super evenings of food, laughter and friendship. Other days just being able to drive through the little villages to local old churches, buildings, and Chateaux’s and being able to understand some of the old history, Having Uwe’s knowledge and French translations just made the journeys so special and never was there anything we queried he could not answer. His energy with Jim was fantastic, the beach and swimming so much easier. Both Rosie and Uwe will make super Grandparents “one day” (Come on Eva, Gramps and Gran are really ready for this)
After two weeks, we said goodbye to friends and moved to the beach in a seaside town called Blondville. The location was tremendous, right on the beach. The hang-up was the time of year, it was full all the time and the ablutions not too wonderful. But just having the family for the last part of our trip before going south and heading home was wonderful. Again we took great pleasure in the food and being able to share our travels around Normandy with Nicole, Frank and Lisa. The weather was not as nice or as kind to us as the first two weeks but we managed to do a few days on the beach and lots of visits to the local sights. One which we did not do with Uwe was Mont Michel which is an Abby on a rocky island connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. Unfortunately we chose one of those rainy cloudy days, one where the beach was out, but I think all of the 100,000 other tourists did too, it turned out a nightmare when we approached St Michel, Mud, slush, hundreds of cars and seriously all the tourists in France in the height of their tourist season, we took a back turn, found ourselves a lovely French restaurant and enjoyed the food and company. Wolf and I are definitely going back down the coast of France on our way to Spain and Portugal so we will do this sighting then, which will be at the end of the season and hopefully a lot easier. More about the Mont St-Michel in the following blog. We left France in lovely sunny weather, and made our way back to Germany to sell our winter home, shop, etc, before going south for our trip back to Africa. France coast, Northern Spain and Portugal will follow before we put our feet back on AFRICA soil.

SCOTLAND

2010-07-13T18:58:00.012+02:00

SCOTLAND

15^th June – 10^th July, 2010

After worrying about my British Visa arriving in time, it was an absolute relief to receive a sms from the British Visa department to notify us that we could collect it on the Friday before departure. And after all the worry about the time for the visa, on arriving the ferry we discovered that the Tickets were booked for the 16^th and not the 15^th, so we had to have them changed. (No going back for us!!) By the way all, yours truly never did the reservation; Sir Wolf did it while I was in SA so this time I could not get into trouble!!!!!!!!The reason which took us to Scotland was ROBERT AND NANCY, and anything we would see of Scotland would be a bonus and to our surprise we received many bonuses in the month we were there. After traveling as much as we have over the past 14 months (can’t believe it’s that long) you would have thought we had seen it all, but to our delight, the ferry from Rotterdam in Holland to Kingston on Hull in England was a real treat. To describe it, is not really easy, it was a combination of a huge shopping mall to a type of ship. The reason I say this is because it is much wider and squarer than an ocean liner. I suppose for the amount of cars, trucks, motor homes and now even the new big caravan homes which are being transported from England to Europe. You actually drive onto the Ferry and then down a quite a long type wide passage and turn at the bottom and face the other way, this way getting off the ferry is a breeze. Upstairs were bars, restaurants, shops, casino, cinemas etc etc. 4 Decks for cars etc and about 4 decks of cabins. On our trip over we must have been upgraded (I am sure to our change of date) and had a front cabin which was a four berth so we had plenty of room and it was really super. Supposed to be a duty free shopping area, but really quite expensive. Lovely dinner in one of the restaurants and after a very restful night the driver, (thought he was in heaven) woke up and had to start driving again and change the side of the road!! I think Wolf could easily settle for a ferry home and stop driving for a while. No such luck!!! Our trip from departing from the ferry took us North via Leeds, Kendal, Carlisle (the border of Scotland) bypassing Glasgow to Perth and then into the suburb of Blairgowrie. We had pre-booked a campsite, as close to Nancy and Robbie and after setting up camp, we joined them for our first drink of many and caught up on all the news. For the first few days and including the weekend we chilled, looked around the town, spent many hours chatting, went to Robbie’s golf club for dinner, went to the Alyth Annual jamboree featuring an agricultural show with sheep, cattle, highland dancers, vintage tractor display and more. The most amazing thing at this show was the sheep and cows. They just are so different from anything in Africa. We actually met a reporter for one of the local papers, who explained the different types and gave us a real insight to the local agricultural life. Will be posting some pictures of these amazing animals on the blog. Also got to watch lots of soccer. On Monday we left to go north. (Only about 180km) Nancy and Robbie’s daughter, June (who has been in SA quite a few times) stays up further North West than Inverness in a place called Gairloch. Nancy had organized us a camp site and a caravan home for them, about 14km outside of Inverness at a small place called Daviot. A lovely trip through lots of little towns. We went via Kingussie and Aviemore, where we stopped for a walk in the town and had a super lunch, (our first glass of wine for the day but shame none for the driver!) Arriving at the camp site we were so pleased with the caravan home which Nancy had booked, we spoilt ourselves and took one too, so luxury we had for the next three days. We had a super braai, (just like home) and Rob and Wolf watched the soccer while the girls chatted and laughed over LOTS OF WINE!!!! And laughed some more!! The next day we had a super drive through little streets, some so narrow you need to wait for traffic from the other side and visa versa. The route took us north west passing the turnoff for Ulapool from which you can take a ferry to Lewis Island (more of that connection later) about 180km which takes a good 3 hours to drive. We stopped at little villages and really saw the lovely countryside. For Wolf and I, we really related the area to the Natal Midlands in summer, lovely hills, and so much green and lots of flowers and beautiful scenery. The Lochs (lakes) all along the way, so clear you can see to the bottom. For us, Gairloch seemed to be at the end of the world, but what a lovely surprise to find a little town on the sea, could be Fishhoek about 100 years ago, just a few houses, little shops and just rocks and sea. Gairloch’s history has always been dominated by the sea because until recently, it was hard to reach by land. History is all around and the craggy local rocks are some of the oldest in the world. Place names speak of Viking invaders and the traditional Gaelic culture, (Gaelic is still spoken locally) you can see Bronze Age hut circles by Sand River and the remnants of a vitrified fort at An Dun. An ancient feud between the rival Mackenzie and Macleod clans ended in 1494 when James IV granted the lands of Gairlock to the Mackenzie’s. Their family home still nestles in the lovely Flowerdale Glen. The deserted settlements and tumbled ruins of abandoned croft houses are being investigated by today’s local historians. The fishing boats that now land are descendants of the huge cod fishery once based in Gairloch. FOR a TRANSLATION IN GAELIC: Welcome to Gairloch in Gaelic is Failte gu Gearrloch. We were welcomed by Stef and June and introduced to their family, their dogs, cats and chicken, friend and life at Gairloch. We had a super home cooked lunch in their lovely garden with all the usual ”remember when”, lots of laughs and wine of course, (none for the driver, SHAME!!) And a short walk on the beach before we returned to our campsite. June and Stef, hope you will read this, Thank you both for a lovely day and really hope we can return the hospitality one day in AFRICA. Again we returned to our campsite and were able to share the soccer, tennis, laughs and “Wine of course”. Sitting on the grass outside of our caravans, using a 3lt box wine for the table, we were ignored byour husbands who said we “embarrassed them”. A report went back to Africa about the “Lady Drinkers” Wonder who did that!!!!! The following day, we explored Inverness. We took a super boat cruise down Loch Ness. A little history. Loch Ness stretches almost 22.6 miles (36.4km) from Fort Augustus in the south to Bona Lighthouse at its most northerly point. Here its waters narrow as it enters into Loch Dochfour and joins the Caledonian Canal allowing shipping a passage to Inverness and the North Sea beyond. The loch covers an area of almost 21.8 sq miles (56.4 square km) and it is Britain’s second largest expanse of freshwater. The loch’s incredible depths make it the biggest by volume. They have depths of up to 754feet (230mts). The volume of water contained within the loch has been estimated at staggering 263billion cubic feet (7.45 billion cubic mts) and definitely enough room for a mysterious creature!! “NESSIE” On the trip we went up the Caledonian Canal, and saw, 1. Dochfour House, (an old Venetian style house, and home to the Baillie family whose ancestors arrived with William the Conqueror in 1066. They have been in the area since the mid 15^th century. The original house being burned down in 1745 and rebuilt in 1780. 2. Bona Lighthouse, one of the smallest manned lighthouses in the UK. 3 The spectacular summer floral displays and village green at the village of Drumnbadrouchit. 4. Aldourie Castle dating back to 1626; 5 The ruined remnants of the Urquhart Castle. The site dates from the 13^th century. In its time it has been besieged, ransacked and ruined and rebuild with depressing regularity and changed hands between the Scots and the English. So here lots of history!!!!. Inverness itself has origins since the 6^th century. And also the first documented account of the sighting of the Loch Ness Monster, “NESSIE” Now a modern city, it sits between the shores of the Moray Firth and the head of LochNess and the Great Glen, which is the massive geological fault line that splits Scotland from east to west. Myth and legend say that the original medieval castle was razed by Malcolm III after Macbeth murdered Duncan I there!!!!!!! Again we had a super day, with lunch (AND WINE) and then back to “home from home” with more of the same. The following weekend was spent having a “TRADTIONAL NEWS YEARS EVE” meal cooked by Nancy, and also a super lunch on Sunday with friends from SA, Alf and Jean, sharing the German Soccer game against England. Quite Racist, the Scots are with England!!!! On Monday, we were treated to a visit to Edinburgh. Two bus trips, one to Perth and then onto Edinburgh, we visited the Castle, the Old Town and all its attractions, shops, restaurants and bars. Walked the historic Royal Mile (most of it) from the castle to the bottom of the road to the Palace of Holyrood house. Again super lunch (AND WINE) even the “driver who was not driving that day” was able to join the rest. Other trips over the next two weeks included a trip to Dundee, visiting the small harbor town of Broughty Ferrie, Pitlochry and a super trip to St Andrews. St Andrews, of course home to the famous Golf Course, what comes to mind is the British Open. This was to start the week after we left so the town was bustling. St Andrews has a special place in Scottish history and legend. It takes its name from the saint whose relics, legend tells, were brought to this place. The town played a leading role in Scotland’s affairs in the Middle Ages and its university was Scotland’s first and is world famous. The coastline of river estuaries, sweeping bays, sandy shores and cliffs attracts a rich number of sea birds and marine life. At one time St Andrews had a large inshore fishing fleet which suffered many disasters and loss of many men. The womenfolk and children earned a poor wage tearing mussels from the rocks in freezing water. Now mussels are collected only for bait and the harbor is home to only a few fishing boats. For us the beach front was lovely but quite windy and apparently usually windy, so for me, I will always feel sorry for the golfers which have an extra handicap (Wind) when I watch in future. We visited the Great Cathedral which was constructed in the 12^th and 13^th century and at the time was the largest building in Scotland and for years the centre of the country’s religious life. It now is just a ruin. The castle was built by the bishops for comfort and protection. It was a palace, fortress and prison but suffered from 400 years of wars and sieges. Again just a ruin. Now for the connection to Lewis Island, we had heard from our great Family Friends, “The Dedominicis Family” from Pinetown in SA that their second daughter, Romina was on Lewis Island, now engaged to a young man, Scott, whose Mom lives on Lewis Island and Scott is now studying there. Well with the help of internet and sms, (how wonderful the world is for connection now) we organized with them to spend a weekend with us, (our last in Scotland) It was another bonus and really special. One to meet her fiancé and also to meet up in this special country. Again we had a super reunion with her, a great meal, a trip to Pitlochery where we visited the local town and “Fish Ladder” something we had never seen before and lots of memories. Again thanks to both Romina and Scott for managing to fit us in with their schedule and spending time with us. Our last day with Nancy and Rob, we managed to have a lovely last meal, a visit to the local town of Blairgowrie to listen to the local pipe band in the park. (We just love the sound of the pipes) and for our last night we stayed over Rob and Nancy. Three and a half weeks just came to an end, far to quickly, and it was a very tearful and painful goodbye for us. While we were there we met her wonderful friends especially Liz and Jim and all we both can say is that Nancy and Robbie are living in a beautiful country (even if cold some of the year) with lovely people around them and although a disaster for us, a message from us, YOU HAVE DONE THE RIGHT THING AND WECAN ONLY WISH YOU WELL AND BE ETERNALLY GRATEFUL FOR THE TIME WE SPENT WITH YOU. “THANK YOU BOTH” Just a word about the remarks about the “wine”. Our husbands never let up about the amount of wine we drank, so we made sure they had something to talk about!!! On leaving Nancy and on the way back we stopped just south of Edinburgh at the Seabird Sanctuary. Our main reason was to see the Puffin Bird but what a wonderful experience. They have remote cameras on the islands out at sea, which is like a wonderful hide and from these cameras you can beam into live images of the birds on the islands. This way you get so close to them, something that is impossible on the islands themselves due to rocks, and remote wild water islands. Jutting out from the sea 4km from North Berwick’s shore is the Bass Rock and one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks. Described by David Attenborough as “one of the wildlife wonders of the world.” We were able to see, Puffins, Gannets, (with babies) Cormorants, Razorbills, Shag and Oyster Catchers, Great Black backed and Lesser Black backed Gulls, and a Kittiwake. (A black legged and white head and body with grey upperparts, wings tipped solid black and a yellow bill.) Most of the Puffins are seen on the Isle of May. They first arrive at the end of March and hang around the surrounding sea until there are sufficient numbers around and then go ashore en masse. They have the funniest type of flight, (with whirring wings) they greet each other by ‘billing’, moving their heads from side to side and knocking their bills together. They always stay with the same mate and breed in burrows, using the same burrow year after year. They leave once the little ones are ready for flight, about the end of July, hence the best time to visit was when we did. After being away for so many months they have to repair their burrow “almost like a spring-clean” before it is ready for nesting begins. A single egg is laid and the breeding pair takes turns incubating the egg at the end of the burrow. The live cameras show the hatching of the puffins. The hatching of the egg takes 6 weeks. After this the puffins fly in and out of the burrows with their beaks stuffed full of sand eels. Due to climate change and over fishing the puffins have been suffering from lack of food. The puffin’s fish by “flying” underwater using their wings to propel themselves to depths of up to 15m in pursuit of sand eels. We were also able to watch a film of the puffins, and hope to get a copy of the film when they are available. It was just so special. The other bird which was super to watch was the Atlantic Gannet. Gannets glide high and use their superb eyesight to spot schools of fish below the water’s surface. They then plunge down, folding their wings at the last minute and hit the surface at speeds of up to 100kmp. Their bodies are specially adapted, with sealed nostrils, protective membranes that cover the eyes and air cells that cushion the skull and body from the shock of the high speed impact. On our way back down south to the Ferry, we were very privileged to have been invited to spend a night with Sharon. Related to us by marriage, (Estelle) and met lots of times in Africa, also been our guest at Ingwelala so there are lots of memories of her time in SA, we had dinner with the rest of the family, Steven, Fiona and new to us, a lovely bubbly daughter, Amy. Hope you all still manage a visit to us in SA. Thank you All. After breakfast the next morning we went south to our journey home on the Ferry back to Rotterdam. Kilometres: 2509 plus Ferry both ways. All camping except for 3 night stay in Inverness in Caravan home and our two nights, one with Nancy and Robbie and the other with Sharon.

Next our trip to France starts on Wednesday the 14^th.July.

Croatia

2010-05-28T14:52:00.009+02:00

We travelled down from Austria to Slovenia on Saturday 1^st May. To our delight we heard from Erika and Wolfgang that they had started their travel down earlier than expected and would be with us in Slovenia by Sunday. After settling at a very busy campsite on the bay, in a little town called Portorosa, but not much of a view of the sea, we had a walk around the town, also very busy but quite a pretty seaside town. We had lunch at a restaurant on the beach, going back to enjoy the bit of sun that had peeped out of the clouds. Sunday we woke up to a grey day, but enjoyed Mass in Latin at the local church. We then took a drive around to Isolo, the other side of the little bay and soon heard from the Maier’s they were about to arrive in Portorosa. Of course out came the Champagne and we toasted to our holiday, caught up on news, had lovely supper and left for Croatia Monday early.

Croatia is made up of the most beautiful coastline you can imagine. A stretch of nearly 2000km and has 1200 islands dotted on the coast line. What islands!!! Some with just deer and naturists feeding from them, some islands for the rich VIPs set, islands for windsurfers, islands for sculptors, etc it goes on and on. About 80percent of the islands are uninhabited. The waters are all turquoise color and you see for miles. The smooth stones of the seabed ripple through each of the thousands of indents from north to south. Every little town and bay have the most enormous amounts of sailing, motor, catamarans etc.etc boats you could ever imagine. We all decided there must be billions of Dollars lying in boats on the coast of Croatia. From the smallest fishing boats to the most enormous Sailing Charters. Most of the habituated islands can be crossed to in Ferries.

For history, Croatia has been in the hands of the Turkish, Greeks, and Romans. Early Slav, Venetians, French and even the Germans had their hands in the country. At one of the islands, a guide told us that the last king, who had been exiled, put a curse on Croatia and said the country would be ruled by other countries for 1000 years. This happened in 1009 and in 2009 Croatia applied to enter the E.U. !!!!!!!!!!

Although I have mentioned the beautiful coastline, much of Croatia is mountainous with a quarter of it forested and equally as beautiful. There are 8 National Parks and ten Nature Parks, some on the islands.

The common denominator of Croatia with the Italians, is the amount of time the locals drink coffee (and wine) Each town and especially the coastal towns are dotted with hundreds of coffee shops, more street and pavement cafes, where there are endless amount of people drinking coffee in the morning and then mid morning, wine, coffee etc and that goes on all day. According to Christina (she was my life savior getting my visa) nobody wants to work in Croatia and the bribery sounds just like home. But I must say that we found the Croatians very friendly and helpful and most can converse in basic English and in the bigger towns and islands where Tourism is the most important good English and lots can speak German!!

Erika and Wolfgang have been to Croatia 4 years ago so our idea was to see what they had not seen, except when it was an area they had enjoyed and crossed the paths of what we wanted to see. They were also only going to be with us for 18days and we were planning a month so we would spend our time doing some of what they had seen and enjoyed.

We started in the North, in Istria. Geographically, culturally and often in the past historically separate from Croatia the triangular looking peninsula and is very much like Italy. We started off on the west coast driving south along the coast line, stopping off to see the towns of Umag, Novigrad, and Porec. At this point I must mention that Croatia has the most amazing and beautiful very old churches in all the towns we visited. Hence two things must be said now, 1, it is impossible to relate the interiors of all the churches as there were so many and, 2 that both Wolfgang Maier and Wolf (as I will refer to them in the blog so as not to mix them up) were driven demented to how many churches Erika and I wanted to visit. Umag and Novigrad small harbor towns with lots of street cafes and the start of the little harbors filled with all types of boats of all sizes and shapes. Porec, in the part of the old city, a lovely Basilica, built in an ancient square by the Romans. It was called the Euphrasian Basilica and Bishop’s Palace. It was built in the 6^th Century by Bishop Euphrasius (hence the name) and it one of the surviving examples of Byzantine art. Wonderfully preserved gold gilt and mother of pearl mosaics which shine and make it quite easy to understand the age. Next door to the church is the palace which is now a museum with consists of mosaics gathered from earlier churches. We then went further south and stopped at Vrsar, which is on a fjord-like slice of pretty green water. Here we set up our camp at a super camp site, Oresera. From here for the next two days we drove and visited the south of Istria visiting the towns of Pula, and Rovinj. The town of Pula has an old Roman Amphitheatre which has been partially destroyed but still hosts different big events. We went down to the underground corridor where the lions were kept in Roman times and through a long tunnel lined with Roman Masonry and also the remains of how the olive oil was produced. Pula was a Roman colony a century after the Romans arrived in 177BC. It was a thriving urban centre with a forum, temples and city walls. Some of which are still standing. Some of the well preserved walls are used as backdrop for the film festivals and quite a few concerts take place here every summer. Other sections, the Golden Gate was built in 30BC and the Roman Forum and the Temple of Augustus still standing. Two beautiful churches, the Franciscan Church and the Cathedral, both two old Gothic style churches. We were treated to a very inventive “Music Man” Only the picture can tell the story; see the blog for a photo but to go with it was the most unbelievable sounds which came from each music instrument strapped to his body. We then moved onto Rovinj, when arriving in the town it started to rain and a lovely restaurant in a little passage, “ called us” into the dry and cosy atmosphere and here we enjoyed a lovely lunch, with good wine and both Wolfgang and the two girls quite mellow. Shame our driver (W) could not have even one drink. (There is a no alcohol law for drivers in Croatia) With the rain lifting we went down into the old Quarter, to a stunning harbor and a lovely village. The harbor is nicknamed the’ cradle of the sea’ by the ancient mariners because of the archipelago of islands stretching from here to Vrsar ensured in calm and untroubled waters. The old town is very attractive with old houses painted in cheery Venetian reds and Habsburyg pastels, with cobbled streets barely wider than a footpath. Unfortunately the beautiful Cathedral of St Euphemia, perched on a hill and not accessible by car. The trip up to the church would have taken Erika and I at least about an hour up, an hour at the church and a half hour back. A unanimous decision (ha ha, it was the men’s faces that did it) we took a miss on it and us girls decided we would get back the time at a later stage. Pictures from afar had to be good enough.

The next day we moved from Istria to the island of Cres, one of the largest and less developed islands. We crossed from Istrian at Breskova to Porozina, a very short ferry, just under an hour. We decided to camp mid way on the island so as to be able to travel by car and see the island the following day. We camped at Slatina on the beach front. In one way, our weather was never perfect but at least we had really good choices of camp sites and this one, was right on the beach. The beaches in Croatia a little bit pebbly and not very sandy but all the same really clear and clean. Erika and I managed two lovely walks while we were there. One over the rocks and another around the camp site, an easy 2km stroll. You will realize that our husbands are not really fond of walking and it was lovely to have company to walk with. Most of the camp sites are very big in Croatia, some with 1500 camp sites, we tried to stay away from the very big ones, but as we were really in an off season we weren’t overrun with campers. While on Cres we visited Losinj, an Island accessible by a bridge, again super waterfront, lovely little streets and waterfront cafes, for wine for the ladies and ice cream for the men, watching people and boats. Again, a little church, Church of St Anthony. Stopped at little villages on the way back and as the weather was good, had one of our walks and a “chill” afternoon with a braai that evening. Left the next morning over the ferry from Cres to Krk. The town is surrounded by a wall which dates to pre-Roman time and the oldest of the towers in the wall was built in 1191. We were only able to find an illegal parking just outside and managed a short walk up to “Cathedral of the Assumption” yes another church, built on the site of an early Christian basilica and dates from the early 1200s, with a bell tower from the 16^th Century. The “Castle” with a cylindrical tower is Venetian as are the three city gates and the rest of the wall. From Krk we travelled back onto the mainland, again one of the islands connected with a bridge, and then south by passing Zadar and settling near Sibenik at a camp site, Oaza Mira, which Erika and Wolfgang had stayed before. Again had a camp facing the water. The next morning we woke up to rain, so Dawn got a reason for staying in bed a bit longer, then leaving at about 11am we went to visit Sibenik, again another old city. Visited, yes, another Church, the Cathedral of St Jacob. This little old town of small alleyways which look like they lead to nowhere but at every turn you see something. A lovely medieval Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence, up one of the little alleys almost on top of a roof, where you would least imagine, a garden to be. It has a water feature and the garden is made up with four areas filled with traditional plants and herbs, roses, capers and a section devoted to several different colored varieties of thyme. Going further up the hill in another alley you get to the top and find a graveyard still being used today, even places for people who have not yet passed on but their name already on the plaques with the rest of the family. All that’s missing is the date of death!! At the top is St Anne's Fortress. Built during the Venetian rule as protection from the Turks and now really is no much to see except the view across the estuary to the surrounding islands. One of the most “famous” things in this area is the “kanoba” The traditional konaba is a very rustic original old private cellars with wine barrels, hams hung out to dry and vats of pickled vegetables and fireplaces for preparing food. Today all the new restaurants in the old quarters all try and copy the idea and many old stone houses turned into restaurants. One of the specialties’ in this area are Pig or lamb on a spit. Most of them with the spits easily seen from the front of the restaurants, to entice you in. Wolf wanted to sample this and eventually we were all teasing him about his “Sexy Ferkel” (means sexy pig) Well as our driver (who was never allowed a drink) we thought we better oblige and he had his lunch that day, his Sexy ferkel. After lunch we went onto another island, accessible by a bridge, called Murter Island. Both Wolf and I were so impressed, we made up our mind to have some time here on our return journey after Wolfgang and Erika leave us. Us girls managed at least a quick look, yes you’ve guessed, another church, a little village one with a nice bell tower. More from Murter when we go back. Sunday and we had arranged to meet Christina, (my life savior getting my visa) for coffee in the old town of Zadar. We needed to thank her for the inconvenience of running around to get a statement signed by an attorney to confirm that we were visiting her. Even she was surprised at the rigmarole of getting a visa for Croatia. Not even my German permanent residence was enough for the Croatian embassy. After having coffee with her and visiting the local market for fish we spent two hours visiting the old city of Zadar. This city again goes back to the Roman time and the main sights, St Donat’s Church, the Zadar Cathedral and the St Mary’s Church and Treasury were all on the agenda. All really beautiful as our photos will tell. The treasury is filled with extraordinary old relics saved from the church history. But the most amazing sight this town had for me was a “Sea Organ” Thirty five organ pipes emit unworldly tones through holes bored into the smooth paving stone on the harbor. Their size and sound are determined by the waves of the sea. Not only did the same designer build this, but he added to it, building the “Greeting to the Sun” it comprises of 300 multi-layered glass plates in a circle and synchronized with the same wave energy. Beneath the glass are solar modules that come into life at sunset to simulate our solar system. The old city is surrounded by a wall which in parts have been destroyed but there still are three gates still standing. The Port Gate, one of two Renaissance stone entrances to the town, carries the carved "Lion of Venice". Also the Venetian Land Gate, where you also see Five Wells from the old Roman times. We had lunch at a little street café and then went on back to our camp site to enjoy the view and plan the next part of our trip.

From Sibenik we headed south to Trogir and then bypassing Split onto Omis and DugiRat and then past Makarska (the Riviera of Croatia) and went onto a Ferry to take us onto the island of Peljesac to a super campsite called Naveo on the west coast of the island. We stopped at Trogir for a couple of hours, the old town reflects the influences of previous Roman, Hungarian, Venetian, French and Austrian rule. Its walled medieval centre is made of narrow cobbled streets from the Cathedral Square to the wide seafront promenade. The old town stands on an island separated from the mainland by a man made canal and linked by a road bridge. Again you cannot visit the town without seeing a church, this one, the Cathedral of St Lawrence which took 300 years to build and finished in 1240. The 47metre Bell Tower has the most magnificent view of the town and surrounding area. A 15^th century Venetian Palace was built for a rich Croatian family. The drive via Omis, Dugi Rat and Makarska will remind you of the trip around Camps Bay in the Cape. The mountains rise up directly behind the houses and to the other side you see the wonderful drop view of the sea. Just one beach after the other, with cafes, bars and restaurants. Some new stunning hotels being built along the coastline. The area known as the Markarska Rivera is a 60km stretch of mainly hotels and stunning apartment blocks with beautiful beaches and stunning views. The choice to go onto the island of Peljesac, was one of two reasons, at the time of applying for my Croatian Visa, that a very small section about 23km belongs to Bosnia (this gives them access to a harbor) and we applied only for a single entry visa and going through this piece would mean a second entry and unknown was a Visa for Bosnia. So our way out was to cross over to the Island of Peljesac and enter back by ferry into Croatia just outside of Dubrovnic. Our 2^nd reason was because we were quite keen to see the Island of Korcula and to reach that we could do it from Peljesac Island. The Ferry’s out of season can be quite tricky as they are not as regular as in season. We were just really lucky with the one to Peljesac, we arrived and they had space just for us two, you never saw men move so fast to get tickets and get on, our wait would have been another 4 hours. We stopped at a super camp site called Naveo for a night intending to do Corsula first for a couple days and then return and do the whole island on our way down towards Dubrovnik. Again very lucky with Ferry to get on but our disappointment was not finding a campsite. The one we were recommended to stay at was still closed (quite a few campsites and even hotels and guest houses close for the winter.) Most open on 1^st May but this one and the next and the next don’t open until June. Very disappointing, eventually we found a “small” campsite in someone’s garden. Actually it turned out quite well, so after settling, we drove into the old town of Korcula. This town’s harbor and later Dubrovnik must be the most visited by big ocean liners. There were two Cruise Liners in the bay and were ferrying on the smaller boats their passengers to the islands. This of course meant we had to share our space with dozens of “Foreigners” (note we don’t call ourselves that) but all in all a lovely old town. It is one of the islands which have managed to avoid every type of tourists but rather enjoyed by the older generation. It has one of the best preserved medieval centers in Dalmatia. Unlike Dubrovnik Koruna was governed by the Venetians and they were responsible for the layout of the Old Town. The streets are laid out in a herringbone pattern, those running west are straight to let the westerly breeze in on summers days, those that run east are curved to keep out the chilly winter Bora (that’s the name of the wind) Wind from the north east. It is also supposed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. Again one of those towns which used to be completely walled in. Entering the town from the south, you pass through the Land Gate erected to mark islands gallant defense against the Turks. It then takes you onto a stone bridge and the Revelin Tower which bears the Venetian coat of Arms. A small chapel dedicated to the Miraculous Virgin of the island. The main street, takes you to St Mark’s Cathedral with one of the most finest e.g. of architecture and design It took three centuries to complete and because of this the styles vary from Gothic, Romanesque to Baroque. There is a 13^th Century icon of the Virgin who was prayed to for salvation when the Turks threatened in 1571. After the men managed to walk with the ladies to all the churches, we were treated to a demonstration of how ice-cream should be served. It’s almost like pancakes been thrown up and over, the ice from the container into a ball and thrown up and onto the cone, then the second and the third and they all end up looking like a shape of some sort. The ladies were given special ones with umbrellas and really done well. (See the blog photo) We then took a drive to the other end of the island through Pine forests, vineyards and olive groves to the town of Vela Luka. Unfortunately it started to rain so we had a quick walk around the harbor and returned back to our “Garden Camp Site” where as Wolfgang’s words were the best part of the site is the Braai. So we used it and had a good evening, and it felt like home. The next day took us back to the Island of Peljesac. The drive down this island was absolutely stunning but impossible to find a camp site which was open and could fit our “rather large homes” in. Either too steep, or terraced or even one next to a grave yard, which under no circumstances would Erika even entertain the idea? We teased her silly about the “people knocking on the door that night” etc etc. We really enjoyed the drive down one of those islands which you can really see almost both sides of the coast line at different times. We eventually settled on the south of the island about 5km from Ston. Ston is really two towns in one, linked by a hilltop of Wall. Stone-Veliki (means Great) distinguishes it from its smaller sister of Mali (small) Ston. Half of the 14^th century tower and walls remain. They survived the earthquake of 1996 which destroyed houses in both towns. Ston’s natural lake-like bay has been home to mussel and oyster farms since roman times. Besides a super walk up the wall, on which they have put a rail onto, so making the walk quite easy. (Some chose not to walk others half way up and only one to the top) And, we found ourselves a really nice restaurant in one of the small streets, Bakos, and ate Oysters for Starters and mussels for mail. Of course the girls had to sample the local wine which Peljasac is famous for. Peljesac is famous for their red wine. In the Dingac area where the Plavac Mali grapes grow. Only in this area. and only on the underside of the peninsula between the town of Podobuce and Trstenik are actually called Dingac. The land faces south west and get the sun, the calcified rocky soil retains the warmth and encourages only the best grapes to grow. But if you see the hill it is grown on, it is unbelievable that anything can grow. The hill is so steep that they used to use donkeys to go up the mountain to fill the baskets and go back again. The residents eventually built a handmade 400-metre tunnel through the hill connecting town and to their grape vines. It was built with their own money during the communist era. From bottom of the slope, the sea has a straight edge, 300mts down. But for the wine it works. After spending two days in on the bay, we moved on, going back over to the mainland. Here the island is linked to the mainland by a bridge, so no need for Ferry. We chose to stay just outside of Debrovnik as to make it easy for us to see the city. We actually tried to find a camp site for our return journey just outside, this was an impossibility. Our vehicles to big for the small places and the amount of hotels and apartment blocks being built now leaves not much for the camp sites. By this time our weather was changing and not looking to good for the next few days, so we made camp quickly and took a drive down south to Cavtat. It is the most southernmost town in Croatia. It is built on the old Greek and Roman settlement of Epidaurum which was invaded by barbarian tribes in the seventh century. Again of course, we cannot go without mentioning the church, The Monastery of our Lady of the Snow built on the hilltop tip of the peninsula. We had a super walk right around the town which borders on the sea, the sea is beautifully and clear. A round walk of about 4km. Quite a nice sunny but windy day, and little did we know but that was the end of the good weather for our time with Wolfgang and Erika. We all woke up in the night with the heaviest of storms we had had since arriving in Croatia, the morning seemed no better but by 11am it had eased and we took a bus from the Camp Site into Dubrovnik is a city squeezed between sea and mountains, encircled with stone walls. We saw this city in rain with dozens of tourists all trying to find shelter when it came down, not a city for someone like me who is not fond of crowds but saying that, a city which should never be missed. Their statistics of 250 sunny days per year and only 14 rainy days during summer was way off target, but the weather was the only disappointment. Dubrovnik as an urban centre introduced medical care in 1301, and opened the first pharmacy in 1317, one of the oldest in Europe and has worked up to the present time. The city was hit in 1667 by a severe earthquake and a great part of the city was destroyed. Many valuables and citizens were lost in fire. The city recovered slowly and in the beginning of the 19^th Century Napoleon’s marshal abolished the free Dubrovnik Republic. It continued to live through the rule of Austria, France, England, Russia and Turkey. But the city lived on with a slogan “freedom cannot be sold for all the gold of the world” It then endured the 1991 & 1992 greatest aggression, the Serbian and Montenegrin killing of its people and shelling of it buildings. Courageous and defiant Dubrovnik proved that “freedom is the measure of Freedom” and it returned hatred with goodness beauty and truth. Some say the city is a city of art, others city of architecture and some a city of history, a city adorned by poets and painters but altogether this is a city monument. Stone is the ruler in this city. The stone of its streets, squares, palaces, houses and churches. The city is completely surrounded by wall even on the sea side; the only un-walled piece is where the harbor is. The city was in times gone by protected by four different Forts. To the North the “Round Minceta” completed in 1464, to the east the mighty Revelin built in 1462, the southeast, the imposing fort “Sveni Ivan from the 16^th century and to the west the entrance to the city by “The Bokar"(means Starlit) built from1461-1463 This huge Fort defends the town to the west and was built on rock 37 mt high and built in the 14^th century. Two fortified gates gave entrance to the city. The East from the 15^th Century (Vrata OD Ploca) and the West from, 1537 (Vrata OD Pila) On this the draw bridge was raised by strong chains and closed the entrance to the city. The stone Figure of St Vlaho (St Blasé) watches over this gate. Again, what gets first mention is we saw 5 churches, Church of Salvation, built in 1520 and survived the earthquake; The Franciscan Monastery also 15^th century to some of the interior completed in the 17^th Century; St Blaise’s Church, built in 1706 to 1715. It survived the earthquake in 1667 but was destroyed by fire in 1706; The Cathedral, Our Lady’s Assumption erected in the 13^th Century, destroyed in the earthquake and rebuilt; and the Jesuit Church built in the 17^th-18^th century. This is reached by a Baroque stairway. Obviously each church has different alters, but all adorned in various different ways dependent on the time and some with a lot of gold, but all really beautiful. The main street has a line of stone facade of houses. The street named “The Stradum” is the largest city street. (Nothing like what we would compare “wide”, but wide to their words) Lower down in this street you find a large square where different processions and festivities are held. Two Fountains there were built in 1520 A Dominican Convent was built in the 13/14^th century for a home for orphans (They were called foundlings) It was later a school and now a museum. The palace Sponza was built in 1516 and survived the earthquake, another palace, Rectors Palace is a magnificent Gothic-Renaissance palace and was built and rebuilt for centuries, it was damaged by fires, explosions and the earthquake. It is now a museum with preserved furniture, portraits and coast of arms of Dubrovnik Republic and other valuables. Outside in the square is the Clock Tower, built in 1444 and it is 31 mts high with huge bells cast in 1509. The bronze figures (now green) strike the hours, There were many other different buildings, the Jewish street and synagogue etc.. If ever visiting Croatia, a city never to be missed. Down came the rain, so we finished our day with a late lunch in a little restaurant in a small alley and enjoyed the ambiance. The rain really spoilt our last day and with the weather report being of a similar tone for the next few days, Erika and Wolfgang decided to leave us a day early. We all moved on the next day to our previous camp site at Ston, so that we could have a recurring meal of Oysters and whatever touched our fancy to say goodbye, the Maier’s back to Germany and Wolf and I to have another 8 days in Croatia.

We got up to bade farewell to the Maier’s and then as the weather was still quite overcast, we decided to move north of the island and try our luck with the weather. We were actually treated to some sunshine on the way back and settled at a camp site which we had previously visited and had noticed that they had a few sites right down on the beach. Actually trying to get the caravan down there was a bit of a mission, (a S-bend half way down and having to push and turn the caravan into the small camp site), but the wonderful view we had made up for the hassel. Here we settled for three nights, one day doing the wine route and visiting the little towns of Trstenik, Dingac, Orebic, Postup, Porobuca, Potocino, Viganj and Loviste. The region spreads 40km in length beginning in Trstenik and ending in Loviste. Orebic is the biggest town on the peninsula and at the highest hill St Ilija, overlooking the Peljesac channel and Korcula Island. Of course there could not be a day without a church or two and we managed to see the Franciscan monastery from the 15^th Century and another on the hill 150m above Orebic, Church Gospe of Andela. For me the best was to find the tunnel, which I mentioned in describing the Pelsec wine, which the residents of the area, had built but when going through the area with Erika and Wolfgang we had missed it. Very easy to see it was handmade and quite different to the tunnels done with machinery. We had a super lunch at a little Italian restaurant, on the coast, in Vigani. The next day, a visit to Trpanj, the harbor where we would cross over back to mainland, and one that only has 3 ferries per day, during the out of season times. An enquiry into this did us well as the queues proved to be really long and this ensured that we would make sure we would be two hours before the departure of the lunch ferry the next day. While there we had a super walk around the old city and also visited the two neighboring seaside beaches of Divana and Duba quite famous for windsurfing. Obviously being out of season, it was still very quiet and we could not even find a restaurant open. We had such a wonderful camp site we decided to enjoy it for the rest of the time, the weather being kind to us and we just chilled, drank and ate and enjoyed the seafront. Crossing over the Ferry the next day, was pleasant beside a bit nerve-racking to fill the Ferry to capacity and us being the biggest, although being the first, were the last on and squeezed like a sausage in a hot dog. We headed back north to Murter Island, and inspected out two camp sites one, we found was an FKK beach, (naked beach- Wolfs description, is bells and ropes hanging free) had a laugh and moved onto the other side of the island and found one on the bay of Betina. (I bet you all our male friends, are making remarks now, Oh Dawn how can you be so cruel not to leave Wolf to have time to let the eyes rove!!!!) Betina was quite nicely situated about 2km from the little town and this became our exercise for the next few days. A super walk into the town enabled us to have that extra glass of wine, or a little extra bite. (We were still trying to take off the kilos which we put on with Erika and Wolfgang) As the weather improved it was time to enjoy the sun. From here we visited the Krka National Park. It is an area of 109sq km encompassing the basin and the course of the Krka River. The river and 7 travertine cascades. Travertine is the basic element that forms the park. It is a porous carbonate rock formed by the sedimentation of calcium carbonate from water. It builds barriers, sills and other forms in karst rivers and streams. It accumulates on living elements. (moss, algae, etc) This forms various geomorphologic forms. Not a National Park of animals, but the flora and fauna is amazing. The birds can be heard in the trees but with the dense bush we were not lucky to see much. We took a boat trip up to the island of Visovac which is a site of the Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy. Today it is still used to train Franciscan Monks. It is a tiny island (picture on the blog) which you can walk around in an hour. From the island the boat then goes onto to Roski Slap (waterfall) The beginning of the barrier consists of a series of small cascades (the locals call them the Necklaces) followed by lots of branches, backwaters and islands. The canyon in this section widens like a funnel and the largest width measures about 450m in length and 650m around. The total difference in height is 25.5m. The main waterfall falls from a 15mhight into the Visovac Lake. Travertine forms at these falls, and include caves, tufts, thresholds, and also cones. The cones at the foot of the waterfall represent a unique feature of the falls. A road crosses the travertine cascades and connects both banks and has done since the Roman period. We visited the one bank where there are a few small mills, some are still working today. The remains of a Roman Military camp of Burnum are located on the right bank of the river directly above the cascades. It was constructed somewhere from the 1^st century BC to the first century AD. Not a lot of it remains but what can be seen is the remains of the arches and a large sunken amphitheater which was recently discovered and an inscription from 76/77 Ad confirms the dates. Excavations are being carried out now to preserve the remains of the amphitheater.

We booked a trip to the Kornati Islands, (which is a National Park) it is made up of 140 islands in an area of only 35km long and 14km wide. Sailing from Murter is only twice a week and depends on a minimum tourist numbers. Unfortunately it was not to be, arriving on the day booked, to find it was not going. We decided while the weather was still good to move inland and into the Plitvicka National Park. We were quite sad to be leaving the super coastline. The Plitvicka Lakes have a surface area of 294.82 sq km. It is the largest of Croatia’s eight national parks. Its basic description of the rock, Tufa or Travertine is the same as described for the Krka Cascades but its absolutely enormous and here travertine formation process is constant and numerous. Magnificent waterfalls have been created. Over time, the water changes its course, leaving some barriers dry but stimulating tufa growth in other places. The lakes and waterfalls are all different in height the lowest lake about 530mts and the highest 712mts. There are 13 lakes and main waterfalls but with many little ones forming from each one. Only photos can do justice to this description and I will post some pictures on the blog. Of course here the video is better, so much so we even bought a professional video of the park. They do have Brown Bears, Wolf, and some cats (lynx, wild cats, etc) but on the normal walk ways, they cannot be seen. You can choose different walks, (easy, midrange and longer ones) Wolf must have been in a good frame of mind as he decided we could do the second longest, about a 6km walk. A walk first around about one third of them along wooden walkways, from these walkways it takes you to the top of each fall and to each lake from where it falls. Views from the lakes and falls absolutely amazing. After about half the distance, a short boat ride takes you down one of the lakes for about 2km and after this we did the rest of the walk, a lot harder and steeper and more amazing. The broader part of the park hides rich forest and meadow habitats with many species of plants and animals. The forest is mostly made up of beech and fir trees. Of interest, is a “Corova Uvala”, this is a virgin beach-fir forest, one of the most beautiful forests in Europe. After the second half of the walk, you catch a “train “ back to one of the entrances. All in all a most amazing, “never to be missed” experience in Croatia. Back at the entrance was a restaurant recommended, so we had lunch there and while waiting for our food, heard a very familiar accent, “Afrikaans” What a lovely surprise to chat, the Retief family came from Cape Town. They live in the Stellenbosch area. Also keen campers and had just come from Angola. So hopefully we will correspond and Carol has promised to let us have some info on their trip to Angola. They were only starting their two week holiday, so we hope they all had a stunning time in Croatia as we did.

We left Croatia the next day to return to Austria, where we had been invited by old friends to share some time. Saturday took us on a walk up a mountain, (only 450m at the top) and a lovely little tiny church and a bell which you ring when you get to the top. I think it was the only reason Wolf made it to the top. Lunch at the bottom of the mountain, in a super little restaurant run by the owners of the farm and friends of Gus. Ate far too much and Wolf being able to drink as Gus had driven us there made up for when he had to abstain, being the driver. Usually at this time of the year Gus helps the farmer to herd his cattle up the mountain for the summer. As it turned out it was the same day we had arranged our walk, so Gus had to do without his “yearly fun” and herd us up the mountain instead!!! Sunday we shared with a old working colleague of Wolf’s, Bertie and his wife Edith, who I had met and done a short travel trip with in China. Bertie and Edith, thank you so much for your hospitality and friendship. What a wonderful time is was to rekindle a friendship of over 20 years ago and in a short time, we were chatting and doing all the “remember things”

Time to leave Austria and soon crossing the German Border where we started the “English Visa” saga. More of that when I start our Scotland Blog. Hopefully there will be a Scotland trip. The visa not an easy one!!!!!

A break here in Croatia to be able to update the blog

Germany-Croatia

2010-04-24T14:47:00.004+02:00

Well back on line after being in SA for a short wonderful trip. Thank you to all which made my trip so memorable. Merry, Viks, Erika for our weekend in Dullstroom. Heather Nick, Robyn, Tom, Maureen, Charmaine, Hugh, Adam and Elsabie and Little Rian for all the visits and friendship. Posting a super picture of Robs in front of the Gautrain which she was lucky enough to have one of the first rides on. Merry's Vegetable Garden, Some lovely photos of us girls in Dullstroom, Lovely flowers and Little Rian Barnard.

We leave 25th April for the continuation of our travels. This trip will take us back through Bavaria, (to see it green instead of white) then into Austria and then to Croatia. The first three weeks of our trip will be with our friends, Erika and Wolfgang Maier.

2010-03-09T15:25:00.003+02:00

Christmas and New Year.

We can only say here, it was beautiful, we had both a white Christmas and white New Year. It was family time for us and really special.

Germans celebrate for all three days. 24^th is really just immediate family, starts with going to church and coming back to open presents first, (otherwise Jim would not have eaten) and then a wonderful meal.

25^th was then with Marina, (Nicole’s sister, she was out in SA with her daughter 4 years ago) Wonderful lunch with all the trimmings. 26^th Was with Franks family, wonderful soups and cold buffet and then on to other family for a drink and snacks. We really tried to have a rest from eating before doing the New Year thing.

This year Nicole chose going out to a pub, a lot of the people on the Carnival committee. Although there was music, nobody danced, really missed Karula’s evening. But really otherwise lovely, midnight, celebrated twice, at 11pm here for SA, phoned home had a cry and then did the whole thing again at midnight German time. As we all went outside there amongst all the fireworks (and plenty of it) it started to snow again and there we had our White New Year. During the evening a type of auction was held. You buy in the form of a playing card. A full pack of cards are then shuffled and the first so many are pulled without any prizes, then about a third of the tickets (matching playing cards) are put together with prizes. During the time of the cards being pulled you can buy someone else’s card for a price which is auctioned, sometimes it has a prize attached and sometimes you buy it and it comes up later before the prize ones, (obviously you then have paid for a loosing card) quite loud with lots of laughs. Wolf won a Gazebo (a second prize) the first was a suitcase, he promptly told Jim to see if the guy with the suitcase would like to swop, quite humorous to see Jim go over without any qualms, and two minutes later we owned an aluminium suitcase.

It snowed New Year’s Day and the day after.

This did not stop us moving, all ready with itchy feet to see more. We left on 7^th January, ready for a super month away. Started off in Bamberg, a little town about 90 km from Nuremburg. It boasts a beautifully preserved collection of 17^th and 18^th century buildings, palaces and churches. It is bisected by a large canal and a fast flowing river that are spanned by little bridges and it has its own local style of beer. A beer called Rauchbier, which means smoked beer. It has a bacon flavour when you first taste it. It is a very smooth brew and I rather enjoyed it but Wolf was not impressed. The town has been recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.

The impressive number of buildings, a fair number of different styles are spread on either side of the Regnitz River but the “Altes Rathaus” (the city hall) is solidly perched on its own island. Its lavish murals are among many around the town. A lovely church, a Romanesque and Gothic Cathedral housing the statue of the chivalric King-knight, the Bamberg Reiter and a beautiful statue of the Lachelnde Engel (Smiling Angel)

A former Benedictine monastery, St Michaels, with a wonderful painted ceiling. Attached at the side of the cathedral there was a museum of Nativity Scenes, only open from November to Mid January. It was really fantastic. From the old fashioned scenes to the ultra modern, all from different countries of Europe. Did a little bit of shopping and had lunch with the local beer and local food in a lovely small pub on the street.

Spent the next day with a round trip of about 100km circular route, visiting Lichtenfelser, home to definitely the most moving and feeling church I have ever visited. It is called Basilica Vierzehnheiligen, (translation Fourteen Saints) and it was built on a spot where there had been a vision of angels. The actual church is built around a central altar which is the actual place where the vision took place. We went onto Kulmbach, home to the Kulmbacher beer, also home to the most famous experts of Pewter Figures. Obviously they have the largest collection of these little works of art in the entire world. Their home is in the walls of the Plassenburg Museum. It now has over 300,000 figures. We visited a Animal Park, although I don’t like zoo’s this was quite different, most of the animals in the open. They have wolves in this park and I was very keen to see the difference between this one and the Ethiopian Wolf. It was quite good and the White Owl’s a very different and beautiful Owl.

We also visited and rekindled a friendship of 10 years ago with Bianca, who at the time was married to the German Engineer responsible for the Maputo project, both Bianca and her ex husband also visited us at Ingwelala. She now lives in Nurnberg with her new partner and we had a lovely day with them and were invited back to stay with them on our way back from Bavaria.

On arrival at their house, we were given a beer to start off with, “Gutmann Bier” Genuine, really is a brewery called Gutmann Bier. Imagine the laughs!!!

We then left for a month in the Bavaria Forest.

This was possibly the most memorable time in Germany so far. We had a super camp site in Viechtach, in Eastern Bavaria near the Czech Border and in a lovely part of the country for skiing.

We spent three weeks, two of them me trying to learn to ski, Wolf getting back into it quiet easily, going up mountains on ski lifts and “rodeln” (coming down the mountain on a toboggan). We actually had so much fun, it was like being children again. There is also a quite famous “Glass Route” an area which specialises in Glass Blowing, a really super area. One of the things never forgotten was in Sweisel, a pyramid of Wine glasses, weight 9.3tons; number of glasses 90,000; and size of area about 4m x 4m. Reminds me of the old times, any one who remembers this was my most memorable time when (after a few glasses) loved building glasses up. I don’t think I got past 20, let alone thousands.

We managed a short trip into Prague, in Czech. Very old city, but difficult to see in such a short time.

Too soon February arrived with us ready to return for Carnival Celebrations.

Nicole is the president of the local Carnival Club here, so again we were invited to quite a few celebrations working up to the actual weekend. The “South Africans” even got a mention on the stage. One evening we watched 4 hours of different gigs, dancing etc. The actual weekend prior to Ash Wednesday, is the real celebration weekend, starts on Thursday with the night out for women. “Altweiberball” (Comes from the old times, direct translation, Old Woman’s Ball)We went to one of the local pubs, into the evening obviously the men turn up and it is supposed to be an evening when any man can ask a strange women to dance, etc etc etc. Leave all the rest to your imagination. It was a fun evening anyway to see it all happening around you. The Saturday was a “Dress up” ball. Another night of fun. Hiring or buying suits for carnival here quite cheap and really funny. Sunday was the Carnival Pageant in this area. We watched from the streets with Jim as Nicole and Frank were on one of the “Floats” throwing sweets, and small presents at all the kids, trying to collect them all. Cologne’s (Koln) carnival in the street is one of the best in Germany and was held on the Monday. We took a train to Cologne very early and had breakfast in a pub, (music and noise already at 8am in the morning). Everybody is dressed in costumes. We then managed to get onto a stand (called Tribune here) which the whole carnival pageant, pass by.

There were about 300 floats and more than 1000 groups taking part. Some on foot, horses and carriages. For your entrance cost of Euro30 you get a glass and free beer or coke for as long as you are on the stand. Not bad considering a beer here is at least 2-3 Euro and the carnival procession lasts for a minimum of 5 hours. So you can do quite well if you drink beer. That’s the good, the bad (especially for men) going to the toilet every time you need it. Well only our pictures can tell the tale, it was wonderful and really hard to put into words. So all my friends will have to put up with home movies of Carnival. We left Cologne mid afternoon and when we reached the town we had left our car to take the train, there they were just finishing off their street carnival show, so we followed it into the town and went to a humdinger pub, where Wolf bumped into friends of his 30years back and then the party got louder and more and we had to take a taxi back home.

Well we will have a break on the blog for a while, Frank (our son-in-law) will be going into hospital for his replacement shoulder and muscles and we will be doing the Grandparents thing of looking after Jim and house.

This does not stop us doing things on weekends etc and have managed to have time with our friends in Germany and also doing some sightseeing around this area.

We visited Xanten, located on a site of the Roman city of Colonia Ulpia Traiana, Germany’s biggest archaeological open-air museum. Colonia Ulpia Traiana was on of the most important cities in the Germanic provinces of Rome. During its height, more than ten thousand people lived here. The daily lives of men, women and children can be reconstructed from the traces they left in the ground. The house of wealthier Romans were decorated with high quality mural painting, and filled with expensive furniture and precious dinnerware. The harbour temple, the amphitheatre, the towers and baths are exact replicas of the ancient structures. Reconstructed in their original size at their original locations using the same materials as the original buildings, these replicas convey a realistic impression of the former Roman city. You can also see the map of how the city connects in the old times with Rome itself.

Another trip we had was in Konigswinter on the Rhine River. We were able to walk along the Rhine River and also in the super old town dating back centuries. Walking in the little lanes among the old buildings was tremendous. Both areas and more around here must be lovely in the summer, unfortunately we have a full program for the summer and will have to miss this.

We will be leaving directly after I arrive back from SA in April, 2010 for our trip to

Croatia

Germany

2010-01-02T12:55:00.010+02:00

GERMANY

The first month’s German weather was very kind to us. So much so that out went the thoughts of the Web Site. Maybe being in one place for sometime and also being in “society” again makes one think that you are not on our travels as much as before.

Saying that, we have had some really good times, but the best has been to be with one’s family and especially being able to be “Grandparents” to a young one again. Hey Rob’s now you know you have “grown up”

Our first travel in Germany was a super train trip to Hamburg, why when we live in Africa is a train, travel something which we don’t even contemplate. (unless of coarse we could afford the Blue or White Train)

Hamburg is Germany’s leading port and its dynamic, multiculturalism and hedonistic red-light district, the “Reeperbahn”, all arise from its maritime history.It’s supposedly Germany’s wealthiest city.

We found it wonderful, with its old town quite medieval. The arcades of shops and café’s run alongside the canals and also on the River Elba. The beautiful red-brick neo-gothic warehouses lining the Elbe architecture south of the Alstadt once stored goods from around the world. Now the so called “Speicherstadt” merges into the “Hafen City” (harbour) an area where the old docks are being transformed into a 155 hectare extension of the city which when complete will house a new U-BahnStation, a university and about 5500 apartments.

We had a wonderful city tour of all the old buildings including two beautiful churches, St Michaels Kirche and St Nikolai Kirche, which was damaged during the war and restored and now is an antiwar memorial with some chilling photos of the then bombed out city, and we also had super views of the city by using the water-boats on the River.

The container harbour is huge, and this is where we collected our car & trailer. It was lovely to unload it, and it all became very real that we had actually reached Germany. Well trailer and car had survived its container trip with only two slightly flat tyres.Hamburg is quite famous for its music, and we were very lucky to see two shows while in the city, The Lion King and Holiday on Ice.

Of coarse a visit to the city could not have gone by without a walk down the main street, of the Reeperbahn. It apparently beats the Red Light District in Holland. (That’s what Wolf says!!!!)

On Sundays, there is a “Fischmarkt” Starts at 6am until 10am. The Market has been running since 1703 and started because all “Shops” are closed on a Sunday and fishing which still took place on a Saturday evening had all this fish which would be off if waiting for a Monday Market, hence a Sunday early morning market was established until 10am which would then enable the people to still go to church on Sunday.

Well it was really fun (not that I thought that at 5.30am on a freezing cold Sunday morning) It is like an auction, and only our video and pictures could give you an idea of what fun it was. Here was the “Markt Schreier” (seller) screaming and joking, so as to sell his fish above the next one. The fish, eel and any other fish that is caught in the North Sea is on sale. i.e. I have two eels, two salmon, one matjies, 5 salt herring, all for !!! 10.- Euros. Descriptions of what was for sale would equal any real good auction in SA. Then there are fruit stalls in baskets for “Euro Lots” you could drink “Gluwein” at 7am in the morning. It is quite usual for the locals to come straight from the Pubs on Saturday night to the Sunday Morning market. We saw and HEARD them.

We had fun, bought fish, drank Gluwein, and ate “Sausage” and “Fish Rolls before heading back on the road and driving home (the temporary one) with our Car and Trailer.

On the road back to Huckelhoven, we stopped over at Hamlin, “The Pied Piper” I am sure us oldies all read the book, as the story goes, when the city was infested with rats, the Pied Piper offered to get rid of them for a sum of money, after he had piped them to the river and they all drown, the city refused to pay him, so he piped all the way through the city calling the children behind him, down to the river they went. So as the story goes, there should be no rats and no children. However visiting the town is quite different, everywhere you look along the cobbled streets are fake rats and pictures of happy children. But it was super and there is a lot of 16^th-18^th Century houses restored half timbered houses. One of which has been restored into a “Pancake Restaurant” in which we had a super lunch. The Rattenfanger Glockenspiel (a carousel of Pied Piper figures and number of bells) which play at certain times during the day. It really was like a fairytale.

The next 10 days, we had our “poor car” repaired, The sad thing is neither Mitsubishi SA or Mitsubishi here could or would help us. But it’s all done now and seems to be in good shape, it has taken quite well to the roads towing our “new home” a 6 mt caravan.

We had a super weekend with Uwe and Rosie, friends who have been in SA with us and visited a very religious town of Kevelar with two lovely churches and many shops with religious artefacts. Many good evenings with our family, loving the time with our grandchildren.

We took off on the 23rd November, going North West through the Harz Mountains. This is a mini-Alpine region in the Saxony region. The medieval castles overlook the fairy-tale historic towns.

We visited Goslar, a stunning 1000 year old city with beautifully preserved half-timbered buildings. There is a reconstructed Romanesque 11^th Century palace. Also a restored “Domvorhalle” which houses an 11^th century “Kaiserstuhl” throne used by German Emperors.
We visited Quedlingburg which is a world heritage town and best known for its spectacular castle district perched on a 25m high plateau above its historic half-timbered buildings. Originally established during the reign of Heinrich1, between 919 and 936. The Renaissance “schloss” (castle) dates from the 16^th century. The whole area’s mascot is a “Witch” so if you are into memento’s (Dawn) a witch of some sort must be on the list to take home.
We spent three days in the area visiting Blankenberg, Elbingerode and Wernigerode. The whole area must be even more beautiful in the snow. We visited the first of many, “Christkindel Markt” (Christmas Markets) in Goslar. These markets, for those who have never been to one, lots and lots of Christmas Decorations of all types, Beautiful Lights, Beautiful Cribs, lots of German Sausage Stalls and litres of Gluwein & Eier Punch drunk by all.
We made our way further south west, to Querfurt where Wolf’s cousin had invited us to his 70^th Birthday. What a bash, will post some photos on the web, when you see the “kloppers” little bottles of Schnaps, called kloppers because you klop on the table, open the bottle and drink. Note we were only 19 people, 17 drinkers and beside all the normal wine, beer, “klap my vrou” 245 Kloppers were consumed. Thank heaven we were transported to the venue by bus. (People take drinking and driving very seriously in Germany, you loose your licence here very quickly with this type of driving) Had lovely music, dancing and really a super party. Showed the rest of the restaurant patrons how the old people enjoy themselves. Thanks Manno and Ursula.
Left for Dresden on the 30^th November. This is a city on the Elbe River, famous before the war as “Florence on the Elbe” due to Italian artists, musician’s actors and master craftsman who flocked to the court of Augustus the Strong, bestowing countless masterpieces upon the city. But shortly before the end of WWII it was bombed and incinerated much of the baroque centre, a beautiful jewel like area dating from the 18^th century. More than 35000 people died and pictures of this ruined city are unbelievable. It is famous for the restorations which were first started after 1950 and more so after the reunification. We visited this city in 2000 and at the time the “Frauenkirche” (Church of our Lady)was being reconstructed piece by piece. All stones which could be identified were marked and numbered and original plans were used to restore this beautiful church to what it was when built between 1726 and 1743 under the direction of baroque architect George Bahr. Originally when it was bombed the communists decided to leave the rubble as a war memorial and because of this it was able to be restored by the rubble still being there years later. After seeing it half complete in 2000, we were determined to see it finished. We arrived at the church to be very lucky to be at a time when a service was about to start and for one hour, we were treated to the magnificent organ being played. The sound cannot be explained. It was just so heart moving. Again another Chriskindel Markt, this one being one of the best in Germany. Again pictures on the web might give you an idea of how beautiful they are.
Dresden has other beautiful buildings, but we had seen them before so we just enjoyed the city and the Christmas feelings.
Left to go north and stopped over at an area called “Spreewald”. This is an area of lots of little rivers and channels running between beautiful, green farmlands. The area gives you a feeling of Venice, with lots of boats running up and down the rivers. While I would love to revisit the “Hartz” area in the Snow, this is a place you need to visit in the summer. With lots of little café’s and restaurants on the rivers edges, it must be absolutely beautiful. Also home to the biggest grown Cucumbers. We of coarse had to sample, all types of cucumbers, done in the most unusual ways. Brought home lots of Semp Gurkin, and types of Pickled Cucumbers. We camped on a super dam (excuse the pun, “dam cold”) But beautiful all the same.
We will go back in summer with the family.
Left then for the big city of Berlin. Spent 5 days visiting the city, and the surrounding city of Potsdam. Here the buildings, history of pre and post Berlin Wall really, really interesting. Did a city bus tour. (easier out of the cold) and lots of street walking. The main street, Kurfurstendamm, was lit ten up like a fairyland. The amount of Christmas Lights in the street and the decorated shop windows was phenomenal. The most memorable visits were to Checkpoint Charlie, the Museum-Story of Berlin, the Holocaust Memorial.
Potsdam is the home of ornate palaces and manicured gardens dotted around huge riverside park gardens. It was the royal seat of Potsdam and was definite the highlight for me. Fredrich Wilhelm of Brandenberg laid the ground for the town’s success when he made it his second residence in the 17^th Century. But Friedrich II commissioned most of the palaces in the mid-18^th century. In August 1945 the WWII allies chose the Schloss Ceciliehof for the Potsdam, Conference which set the stage for the division of Berlin and Germany into occupation zones. The most famous castle Schloss Sanssouci was built in 1747. Unfortunately it is closed on a Monday, and this is the day we chose (unknown) to visit the castle. Maybe another reason to revisit.
We return now to our “Second Home” in Germany to have Christmas and New Year with our family.
Had a wonderful “Christmas Weekend” with Uwe and Rosie again. A spread of Seafood especially shopped for in France (267km) done on the Saturday of our Christmas Dinner and was unbelievable. See the sights on the web. Once again thank you Uwe and Rosie, we hope to host you to the same unbelievable standard back in SA when we get home.
With our weekend (before Christmas) we were treated to our first snow. (How quickly I turned into a child) It was absolutely wonderful to wake up to a white, white outside. The snow stayed with us until Christmas.
Our Christmas and New-year to follow.

Ethiopia to Djibouti to Europe

2009-11-02T22:28:00.006+02:00

ETHIOPIA TO DJIBOUTI TO EUROPE

We had a pleasant trip from Ethiopia to Djibouti with one stop over at Awash. We also spent a further evening about 120km before Djibouti City so that we could arrive in the “CITY” early in the day.

Djibouti, the whole city is about 10square km. It is so small that on our way in we saw a Massida Logistics truck on the road, just followed it and sure enough it brought us to the offices of Massida, where we met Odette, our contact who Warren Erfmann put us in contact with to do the shipping of our car & trailer. Odette had warned us of at least a 7day wait for our vehicle to leave, she really did her best and the help we received while there was outstanding. We were loaded and out of Djibouti in 5 days. Djibouti as a city is really small with almost no parking especially at hotels; all parking in the streets and that is really difficult, except during the hours of 12.30 to 4pm when the whole city closes. Not that you can blame them, temperatures are anything between 35-40deg all day. The humidity is almost unbearable and thank heaven that all offices, shops, hotel rooms are air-conditioned. But price wise it is unbelievable, especially coming from Ethiopia. Cheapest hotel room $40 US dollar. Beer $6 and food does not really get much cheaper. Anyway it was an interesting city and nice to visit a new sea, Gulf of Aden. Never saw any pirates or anything so exciting.

SOME STATS AT THIS STAGE.

TOTAL KM FROM SA TO DJIOBOUTI- 25056 - 13 COUNTRIES - 176 DAYS. PUT UP CAMP 46 TIMES AND SPENT 42 NIGHTS IN HOTELS (mainly Eithopia where not much camping is available)

I was very tempted and tried very hard to try and persuade Wolf to have our passage across the sea in a dhow to Yemen, but Wolf thought I was completely crazy and the only concession was to fly to Yemen on route to Frankfurt. This actually proved to be really reasonable and we were able to fly to Sana (the capital), have a night and full day in a hotel, with all meals included for $490 US. We spent our day in Sana with a super tour of both the new and old cities and also the surrounding area. The old city is absolutely amazing and a few of the buildings and churches reminded me so much of Lalibela in Ethiopia. The whole city is absolutely amazing, with most of the newer parts all being built with the same architecture of the old city. It is an absolutely amazing city for those of us who like buildings, churches etc. They have built a new mosque in the city, unbelievably huge and absolutely beautiful. Our guide could not tell us exactly how long it took to build but about 4 years, with hundreds of builders on site daily.

I really would like to revisit this country seeing more, The Arabian Horses, driving through the Haraz to the Kamaran Islands. The road from Sana through the windy mountains highway in the Haraz to the Red Sea coast is supposedly an amazing experience. Yemen’s diving is supposed to be really fantastic with the coastline of 2000km bordered by stunning coral reefs teeming with marine life. Anyway this was not to be for now, but anything is possible on our way back to SA.

We had a non eventful flight to Frankfurt arriving to a mere 5deg. From our 40deg in Djibouti to this was a real shock to the system.

Surprising the family was really super, and what a welcome we got.

Not much news will follow now as we will spend some time with family and friends and wait for our vehicle to arrive in Hamburg, this will be about 5^th or 6^th November

We have spent a bit of time, looking for “A Winter Home”, and have bought a Caravan, complete with gas heater. We also wait to hear when Frank, (our son-in-law) will need his next operation on his shoulder, we will stay “home” for this to look after Jim and after this will take off on our exploration of Europe. Not much time before Christmas, but do hope to see Berlin and some of the old East Germany cities

ETHIOPIA

2009-10-02T14:38:00.012+02:00

ETHIOPIA

Well a short continuation of Kenya, Wolf managed to buy a spring in a “dorp” as big as Plaston, bring it back to “Henry’s Camp” where we were staying. A Swiss man married to an Ethiopian Lady, has been in Ethiopia for 30 years. He has a workshop, bakery (real with proper ovens) a camp site and one “rondavel” with 8 beds in, the inside is fitted out with colourful material, roof, walls, you feel like you are in a Bedouin Tent.

In his workshop they shortened the spring to fit our trailer, this is now the spare and the original broken one which was welded is still on the trailer and going strong. Well the next day we did the final 250km, slowly carefully and 5 hours later crossed into Ethiopia.

Welcome to Ethiopian Standards. Our first eye-opener, “Hotel” These are dingy rooms, and if you are lucky with what they term as a “Shower Room” This is a small room attached to the room which has a small basin, toilet and a shower. The shower is literally a pipe out of the wall and a drain in the floor and as Northern Kenya and Ethiopia are in a drought situation, you can forget using the shower, you get a bucket of water, which is for both to flush the toilet and to wash in.

The only difference between Northern Kenya and Ethiopia is the cost of the hotel. A single room (as it has only one double bed) costs maximum Birr 80, about R64.00 for the night. Our travel guide, (Bradt Book) actually mentions that Ethiopians do not do maintenance so if you are lucky to get a fairly newly built hotel, take it as the rooms will be relatively clean and decent. As the hotel gets older so do the rooms, no painting, no upkeep and really not much cleaning. Thank heaven for Heather and Baby Wipes, she brought us two big packets and these are used to clean the toilet seats, and wash where you wouldn’t use their water. We have managed to buy mineral water and this you use for everything except washing you feet.

The hotel I have described is in the “Moderate” bracket. In any of the smaller towns, you only get moderate and budget. Also Electricity is usually on only from 6pm until about 11pm and sometimes during the day for an hour. (and we worry about “Load Shedding”)

25^th August to 1^st September.

After spending the first night in the border town of Moyale, we headed west towards the South Omo Valley.

The Omo Valley is home to about two dozen different tribes with all their own culture, dress etc. Descending from green highlands into the low-lying plains, South Omo is as close as one can come to an Africa untouched by outside Influences. This is what our guide book said in 2006 but this is already changing so fast, due tourists and commercialization. (Note my later remarks)

We spent a night over in Karat Konso, home to the Konso people. There is very little camping and none in this village, another “moderate hotel” and local food which consists of “injera” which is a large, pancake-shaped substance made from a nutty tasting grain that is unique to Ethiopia. The dough (tef) is fermented for three days before it is cooked, the result is a foam-rubber texture and a slightly sour taste. (Looks like a very big grey pancake) This comes on a tray (plate) about 40cm and on top is meat, fish or vegetables. This also depends on the day of the week, whether you get meat or vegetables. I had the vegetable one, which you get small amounts of spinach, a sweetcorn of sorts, lentils, some sort of dark bean, a little bit of tomato and onion. It is served with a small bowl of either tomato sauce or a chilli of sorts. “The Chilli sorts the bland taste all out” (for me that is) Ethiopians think they are the only ones who can eat hot sauce.

The meat is usually goat or lamb. You are supposed to eat it with your hands, wrapping the injera around some veg or meat, making a small wrap of sorts and “eat” The closest you get to “Western Food” is spaghetti served with a separate bowl of a Tomato type sauce. Hence of course after two days in Ethiopia, Wolf has had enough Spaghetti.

The Konso People.

The village close to Karet Konso is enclosed by a 2m high stone wall. Within this wall, there are lower stick and stone walls enclosing each individual family compound. In the village outside Konso there are leafy Morninga trees which they use the leaves to make a stew with and then add dumplings made from sorghum flour. The families make up a sub community and they build a large “mora” or community house. This is used as a meeting place for the men and boys over 12 years to sleep in. (No women allowed) This custom meant that the men were easily mobilized during the night, to fight off enemies and it also helped with family planning, as even married men spent a large time in the community house, rather than with their wives!! Konso people also follow the “Kata” generation set where every 18 years a new generation is initiated. The older generation step down and make beer for the party, while the younger generation (8-25years old) elect a “generation pole” in the village square and take over the leadership of the village. You can calculate the age of a village by counting the number of generation poles and multiplying by 18. Victory poles are also erected in this square. Tall ones for a victory and short ones for a defeat. They also carve wooden grave markers called waga erected for heroes in the community. These have for a large extent been damaged or stolen by 'foreign collectors' so now they can only be viewed in the regional tourist office.

The roads don’t get better, they are busy making new roads, but no where do you get to drive on them, you just go from one side over a piece of new road to the other side and a km later back to the other side. The roads are very stony and as you will read later, a killer on both car and trailer. One of the strange things you see is that most of the villagers store their food in the trees under thatch. This is to keep it safe from animals and children. The crops grown here are sorghum, (used to make beer), maize, beans and coffee. They make the most of the hard, rocky slopes that characterise their relatively dry and infertile homeland through a combination of extensive rock terracing, using the dung from the animals as a fertiliser.

After picking up a Guide, Gabino, we went further west to a town called Turmi.

Here to our delight found a hotel that has a camping ground and quite clean toilets and showers. Only water and electricity for very short times. Again a bucket of water supplied for the toilet. Our Solar shower worked like a bomb and with this hung up in the shower we both managed to have a really hot shower, and hair washing a pleasure.

From here we visited three other tribes. At this point I must mention the worst of Ethiopia, even worse than the accommodation. The children on the Street, The worst in Africa. They stand in the roads and scream, faranji, faranji, (means foreigner) give me money. They really try your patience, jumping up and down not moving until you are almost on top of them, We have met people who even driving at the slowest of speeds hit one. When I tell you they don’t stop and you do not travel far between villages without coming across dozens of kids.

Visiting the village is another nightmare. You pay per person and for the car (even if you leave it outside the village) and then for every photo. The people come in droves all want to be photographed as you pay per photo per person. (Eg if you take a picture of mother child and baby on back that is 3 people) Everybody shouts, me photo, me photo. The cost are really minimal for photos usually one or two Birr. 12-13 Birr is one US dollar which is about R8.00 so if you take ten pictures this could cost about SA 80 cents a picture. The problem is having enough change to pay each one, the best is to try and negotiate with the head of the village on one price, but even with the guide, it becomes a nightmare to decide on how many pictures as well explaining to the people that the money is with the Village Head. Without our guide, a visit to these villages would be impossible. Of course the other problem we had is Wolf refused to pay for the car. He would leave it about quite a way out of the village and then fight about not paying for the car. Actually it is not fun. You don’t really get to talk to the people or even see how the village is constructed, as everyone is yelling, me photo, me photo. In one village the one young girl was determined I should give her my tee-shirt, because in this particular village the women have nothing on top I don’t think she could get the gist that I really could not take off my shirt and go topless as easy as she did.

Without the guide, it would be even worse but not even then could we spend time in the village. We actually needed him not only for translation but to explain the ways and living of the tribes.

Unfortunately the tourists, the commercialisation in the bigger villages, are eventually going to be the end of their cultures so for us I can only say again, like the gorillas in the near future this will all be gone and impossible to see.

Hammer Tribe.

The women are particularly striking, with thick plaits of ochre-coloured hair hanging down in a heavy fringe, leather skirts decorated with cowries, (not sure where they come from, nowhere near a sea) a dozen or more copper bracelets tightly fixed on their arms, thick welts on their body created by cutting themselves and treating the wound with ash and charcoal. Colourful beaded bands hang from their waists. Married women wear one or more thick copper necklaces, often with a circular wedge about 10cm long projecting out of the front. The actual copper necklace stays on even when they sleep. The men, also given to body scarring, are more plain, except they do paint themselves with white chalk paste before a dance or ceremony. The clay hair buns fashioned on some men’s heads indicate that they have killed a person or a dangerous animal within the last year.

The most important event in Hammer society is the Bull jumping Ceremony, the culmination of a three-day long initiation rite. The afternoon of the third day, (the one we attended), they line up to 30 bulls and the stark naked young male or males, sporting a unkempt Afro hairstyle has to jump up onto the first bull and then jumping from one bull to another he reaches the end of the row, he then must turn around and repeat the performance in the opposite direction, again a third and forth time. If he does not fall he has proved his manhood. This then starts a spree of violence from the men beating the young unmarried women with whips. The women actually almost beg the men to hit them. This means they are strong and will make strong and good wives. They actually leave these women with open bleeding backs. For me it was quite bizarre. (Each to his own!!!!!!!!!)

KARRO TRIBE (painted) at Murele. This tribe is best known for their body painting which they mainly do before important ceremonies. They dab their torsos with white chalk paint, supposedly an imitation of the plumage of a guinea fowl. Colourful facemasks prepared with a combination of pastes made by mixing water with chalk, charcoal, powdered yellow rock and iron ore. The men also have their hair plastered into a tight bun, after killing a human enemy or a dangerous animal. The women’s hair is rather striking, tightly cropped at the side and tied into knots and dyed ochre on top. It makes them look like they have rushed out of the bathroom without removing their shower cap.

After spending 4 days, 3 nights visiting the villages, I was happy to cut short the last one. All I wanted to do was go to one of the lakes up North and crash for two days. Well this was not to be. On our way back to Konso, we had two punctures, one on the car and one on the trailer. Needless to say a journey of 200km took 6 hours. While getting the punctures repaired, Wolf noticed the gap between the car and canopy had widened. We booked into a “moderate hotel” and although Wolf checked with both Johan by telephone in White River and checked under the car, we could not see the problem. Obviously the mud was so thick the damage did not surface until we had done about 120 km. The frame on the car cracked and the distance to the next town (60km) was done at a speed of about 10km an hour. The complete journey of 200km is done again from one side of the road to the other. The roads here are graded for the entire piece with no tar being put on until the complete section is ready. Therefore at no time do you get to drive on the decent graded piece just the side roads which have been partly graded while they make the new road.

I really believe only prayer and Wolf’s slow, slow driving got us to “Soda”.

We got to “Soda” and there managed to get the frame welded to get us to Addis Ababa. We decided to skip our original planed route so as to rather use the only good road from the South joining the main road at Shashemene, this now being the main road from the border to Addis. We actually only had two days to then ensure we had a plan for Tom and Caroline who are joining us in Ethiopia for 10 days. Due to the damage on the car, we decided to hire a car and driver, (which is quite reasonable here) This was a worry off our minds, with only 10days with them we could ill afford to be stuck somewhere without a back up vehicle.They both arrived on Monday 7^th September, Caroline in the morning and Tom in the evening. During the day we visited the Entoto Hills. This was the site of Menelik’s capital before Addis Ababa was founded in 1887. Here we visited three Churches, 1^st, Maryam Church, an octagonal building with a traditionally painted interior, where Menelik was crowned in 1882. Unfortunately you can only visit the interior if you are there about the time the service ends which ends in the morning about 9am. But to get our first taste of “Ethiopian Orthodox Churches” many people visit the churches during the day, praying outside of the doors. The churches are mainly round or like this one octagonal with many doors, one for men, one for women, one for the clergy, and one for visitors. There are quite a few paintings or pictures on the outside of the windows and doors where you find many people praying all day. The second, Kidus Raguel with an interior full of beautiful paintings and pictures of saints, and others depicting many different holy people from the bible. They have a centre section which only the priests are allowed to enter, each church having a copy of the Arc of the Covenant. The floors all have the woven woollen type carpets on. (All shoes left outside) The third was a disused Rock Hewn church which was carved out with a similarity to the churches in Lalibela. (We go their later in our trip)

We spent a night in Addis on Monday and left early the next morning with our tour guide to go south, our first stop going to be Bale Mountains. It was a very long road, the first being the good road going south towards the Kenya border again. At Sashameine we turned off east and for the next 30km not too bad. Then the “normal” Ethiopian roads began. Bale lies in the green highlands southeast of the rift valley. We travelled through some really lovely hills, all very green in fact at some times you would have thought you were on a beautiful trimmed golf course. The mountains in the background were really magnificent, one of which was the second highest in Ethiopia, Mount Tullo Deemtu at 4377mt. The dominant trees in the forest between Ababa and Dodola are the African Juniper and the Hagenia Abyssinia. This is very similar to the area in Dinsho which is the gateway to the Bale National Park.

We arrived at our night stop at 7pm, Robe, in the pouring rain, to find the town in the dark, the only hotel worth staying at, pitch dark with a few candles. Well, slush and mud the order of the night, we got into our rooms, then found our way to the dining room, just ordered our “St George Beers” and wow on came the lights. We actually gave the staff a round of applause. After quite a good dinner and a good nights sleep, we left the next morning for a trip into the Sanetti Plateau at the top of the National Park. Within minutes of ascending the start of the hills, we were treated to our first sight of the endemic Ethiopian Wolf. The local people refer to it as the Red Fox. We also were fortunate to see some endemic or unusual birds, Ruddy Shelduck; Rouget Rail; Abyssinian Flycatcher, a White Collared Pigeon and a Thick Billed Raven.

We identified another 9 other types. We went on to have another 3 sightings of the Wolf. The mountains were absolutely freezing. We managed to find a super picnic spot in between the mountains for a light lunch. We went back to Robe via Gobe and did a walkabout in the town which has a mud street and plenty of donkey carts.

The next morning we went into the bottom of the mountains to the entrance of the park. The only way you see any part of the park is on foot or donkey. As we were very limited to time we organized an hour walk and were rewarded with seeing good sightings of the Mountain Nyala, Bohor Reedbuck, common Jackal, Menelik Bushbuck, and Warthogs (they have much longer hair on their backs) and again lots of birdlife.This brought us to the 10^th September, Ethiopian New Year is on the 11^th September, and so we had arranged to be in Wonder Genet where we thought we would experience a bit of their New Year festivities. Wonder Genet is home to some warm springs, (they have two hot pools, it even resembles our warm water pools at home, e.g. Badplaas) We expected a late night, but to our amazement there was none of that and we were in bed by 9.30pm with little noise later. “New Years Day” we had an early warm swim, and then after breakfast a good 2 hour walk up the Mountain behind the hotel. Good sightings of the White and Black Colubus Monkey, Unusual or Endemic Birds, White Cheeked Turaco, yellow fronted Parrot, Black winged Lovebird, Grey headed Woodpecker, Olive Mountain Thrush, Banded Barbet and Ethiopian Oriel and another 10 other species. Although we had seen the Silver Cheek Hornbill before it was a first for Tom and Caroline and we had really nice sights of it. It resembles a toucan with a huge double white bill.

After our walk we travelled a little more south to the town of Awasha. This is on a caldera lake with no outlet. The Lake spans about 9000 hectares. This lake is the smallest in the Rift Valley. We had rooms in a super position right on the lake edge. We spent a super afternoon sitting on the lake with beers in hand, took a sunset cruise out to “Fish Market”, a spot where the fish market is held in the day and late afternoon you have a different Market, it is visited only by hundreds of Marabou Storks and other water birds. Magnificent sight at the sun goes down. Again we had some really great birds, the unusual he Van Decker Hornbill, the Hemprichs Hornbill, the Northern Red Hornbill, the Eurasian Hoopoe and a Striped Kingfisher plus another 20 or more normal species.

Next day we headed north, first stopping at Shashemene where there is a Rastafarian commune, informally known as ‘Jamaica’ formed during Haile Selassie’s reign by a group of Jamaican devotees. We visited the Black Lion Museum which celebrates the community’s Rastafarian roots and where you can also purchase local art work. We all chose some pictures which are made from dried Banana leaves. Then we headed further north up to Lakes Shale, Lake Abiata and Lake Langano. Taking in an 887 square km National Park. Unfortunately this park is still shared with the local community and therefore there is no park to speak of. However on the Lake Abiata, the declining water level has increased the number of algae-eating birds, with flocks of Flamingos and Pelicans. We also saw a wide range of water birds, the unusual being the Mongolian plover and Pacific Golden Plover and the red necked Phalarope. We then headed over to Lake Shale from where you can do a couple of walks, unfortunately this was spoilt by a load of loud and rather pushy locals trying to annoy you, wanting the usual, “money” (And these were not the usual small children) Lake Shala has an incredible depth of 266m and has been calculated to hold a greater volume of water than any other Ethiopian lake, including Lake Tana which covers an area almost ten times larger. We stayed on the third lake, Lake Langano with a surface area of 305sq km and only a depth of up to 45m. This lake is developed mainly for tourism and as we arrived on a weekend, it was a very busy, tourist attraction, adding the fact that it is the only lake which you can swim in. They have water sports, swimming etc making it a real tourist attraction even for the locals. The lakes and the National park were a bit disappointing but we did have quite a few really nice bird sightings and Caroline and I enjoyed a short swim in the Lake. Our next destination was north to Lake Ziway. This is the northern most of Ethiopia’s natural Rift Valley lakes and the largest of the four we visited with a surface area of abut 430sq km. It lies at an altitude of 1636m and ringed by steep volcanic hills. It is a shallow lake and is fed by two rivers, the Maki and Katar and is drained at the south-western tip by the Bulbula River which then flows into Lake Abiata. It has an abundant population of Tilapia fish, a really nice eating fish which can weigh up to about 1.5kg. There are five islands on this lake and one known as Tulo Guddo (Large Mountain) in Oromo lingual and to the Amara people as Debre Sion (Mount Zion) On the highest peak, is the church of Maryam Tsion and is known to be the oldest active monastery in Southern Ethiopia. The church has stood on this peak since at least the 12^th Century. According to the legend this was the sanctuary for the Original Ark of the Covenant for about 70 years before it was considered safe to return it to Axum. This is where it is said to be today. There are many theories about this and before leaving Ethiopia I would like to get a couple of books on this subject. The older churches here really do not resemble a church as we know them. (described before) Each morning, before any eating, people come to church for some sort of Ceremony (I was never lucky enough to attend one) No one is allowed to enter if they have eaten. At all times of the rest of the day, people visit the church, kneel and pray at the closed doors of the church. We will post a picture on the blog to try and explain what I mean. After visiting the church on the island (taken by small motor boat) we headed back to the mainland where we negotiated a trip to Bird Island. This is a very small island with hundreds of birds. Mainly of course, Water birds, Flamingos, Pelicans, African and Eurasian Jacanas, Dartar, Black and Grey Heron, super Spoonbills with babies in a nest and the normal egrets and plovers with a few special plovers. We were so impressed with this little island we arranged any early one for the next morning to see the sunrise and the island. We weren’t disappointed, this time we actually were allowed onto the island and spent about an hour walking about. The sunrise and the birds tremendous.

At the hotel, we had super sightings of the White Bellied Go Away Bird.

After breakfast we headed slightly west to Butajira and then north to Addis Ababa visiting the Tiya Stelae, this is a belt of mysterious engraved stelae that stretches across southern Ethiopia. Little is known about the origin of these stelae or of the meanings of the symbols that are carved upon them. Recent excavations revealed that the stones mark the mass graves of males an females who died when they were between 18 and 30 years of age and who were laid to rest in a foetal position about 700 years ago. The presence of several engraved swords on the steal suggests that the people buried were soldiers, but evidence of this is far from conclusive. Today this is listed as a world Heritage site, this site comprises of about 45 stones some of up to 2m in height, The largest which has been broken seems to have originally been about 5m high but only the base remains, the top part has been removed to the university in Addis Ababa. Apart from the stylised swords, the number which appears on the Stelae is thought to represent the number of people killed by the warrior, two other symbols predominate, plain circles and what looks like a pair of podgy leaves rising on a stem from a rectangular base. The plain circles appear on about one in ten stones and deem to denote that a female is buried underneath. The leaves look like enset (false bananas) that is sill widely grown in Southern Ethiopia, recent thinking they are a sort of visual RIP note. What also looks like a Greek ‘E’ symbol which no interpretation has been thought up? Tiya, would appear to mark the medieval boundary between pagan and Christian Ethiopia.

Our second visit was to Adadi Maryam Church. This is a rock-hewn church, the most southern rock-hewn church in Ethiopia. It dates back to sometime between the 12^th and 14^th century while local tradition associates it wit King Lalibela’s visit to the nearby Mount Zikwala in AD106. It is very close to the style in Lalibela than any other rock-hewn church. It measures about 19m long and 16m wide and has 24 windows and ten doors. The tunnel that leads from the back of the church to a nearby watercourse was carved later to prevent flooding. It is known that Almed Gragn attacked the church in about 1527 NS Although the excavation survived this more or less intact the large cross above the entrance was severely damaged and the priests were either killed or forced to flee. The church fell into disuse ad it remained so for several centuries when discovered by local hunters was reopened during the reign of Menelik II and remains in active use today. The Swiss embassy funded the extensive restoration work in 1996-1998.

Our last stop before going onto Addis Ababa was Melka Kunture. This is a museum known for the numerous Stone-Age artefacts hat they have unearthed along the river including a variety of cleavers, hand axes and other tools made from basalt and other hard rocks.

On reaching Addis and only having one more day with Tom and Caroline we checked into a super hotel, (For Ethiopian Standards) and were very fortunate for our night there and our dinner later to be the guests of Tom and Caroline. Once again to you both ‘THANK YOU”

For our night out we visited a Traditional Ethiopian restaurant. Sitting on low chairs with little round basket type tables, lots of tapestry type mats and wall hangings, traditional music and dancing, we were served some very traditional meals and after had a coffee ceremony where you sit around on small stools and watch the whole roasting and preparation of the coffee being made. This is really quite special and very Ethiopian.

The next day we did a city tour, seeing about 4 different churches, a museum, the Djibouti/Addis Abba railway station built in1928-29. The churches all being built between 1911 and 1933. Caroline and I really enjoyed it. Tom and Wolf gave up after lunch which left Caroline and I to be able to enjoy another two. There is so much history here, it would take as much as I have written about the whole of Ethiopia to fill you all in. Wolf always says I write too much, so I will leave it all for an evening with friends who would be interested when we eventually get back to SA.

We had a second tradtional Ethiopian Restaurant meal with our Guide (Brooke) who had done our whole trip. The restaurant was a lot smaller and quite a bit more traditional in décor. A super evening to say farewell. Tom and Caroline left the next day. We spent a few days trying to sort our car out and to make a decision to fix it in Ethiopia or Europe. Lots of fellow travellers all giving their suggestions, we decided Wolf decided Europe would be best and that we would get there. (This episode will only follow when we get to Europe.)

20^th September to 1^st October.

On all these “Mechanics and specialists of Roads” it was decided we would get up Gonder via Debra Liebanos, Debre Markos, Bahir Dar (Blue Nile Falls) then to Lake Tana, slightly south of Gondor. We had met Kim and Tim, the “owners/managers” of a newly built campsite/bungalows on the shores of Lake Tana at Gongora at our campsite in Addis, a place called Wims. Both Wims and Kim & Tim are Holland nationals, living and working in Ethiopia. Wim is together with a lovely Ethopian lady, Rahel, and runs a very good restaurant and has lived in Ethiopia for 18 years. Tim and Kim are volunteers from Holland setting up the resort, a community based project, funded from Holland. I can only say, we went for two days and stayed seven. I think this say’s it all. Wolf helped Tim a bit with fitting of the windows in the new bungalows. After having not much guests for the past two weeks, the day we arrived they ended up with 15 of us travellers. Kim managed to feed us all from her kitchen, (about 3mts by 2mts) a two plate gas stove and supplies from the village. Kim was a wiz, but again one of those people I know from home, must do all herself (Chandy!!!!!!!) cook, the best cleanest toilet I have been to in Ethiopia, breakfast, lunch, supper and endless cups of coffee, cold beer without a fridge. Even the campers, ate all meals prepared by Kim opposed to cooking for themselves. I was honoured to be taken on two walks by Tim, who is desperately trying to finish the “resort”. When completed they will have 6 stone bungalows, about 10 camp sites, with tents and mattresses and bedding supplied (these with a thatch roof over a cement slab) and then the site for all over Landers and campers like ourselves with our own tents. All the sites face the lake with spectacular views. On our walks we saw any endemic birds and the most beautiful scenery. It is in the middle of hills and the walks unbelievably beautiful. It was quite an emotional time for me to say goodbye, Had we had more time, both Wolf and I felt, we could have quite happily stayed a few months and helped these very brave people finish their dream (What’s more its all for no pay) They are on a real time frame now, it was estimated it would take 18months to complete and the funding from Holland on the last month now and it is estimated it will still take another 6 months. Just the electricity connection will be about 3 months and about $6000 US cost.

We left them to travel east to Lalibela, home of a strange, isolated town, and set high in the mountains of Lasta. It is famous for its rock-hewn churches and is very often said to be the 8^th Wonder of the World. Lalibela was the capital of the Zagw dynasty which ruled over Ethiopia from the 10^th century to the mid 13^th century and its name derives from that of the most famous of the Zagwe rulers, the 12^th century King Lalibela. There are two versions of why the churches were built but the one given to us by our guide, I think bears more chance of being true. Lalibela went into exile in Jerusalem and decided that with all the pilgrims coming to visit Jerusalem in those days, millions of miles on donkeys and camels, he would build a new “Jerusalem of Rock” for all the Ethiopians. As soon as he was crowned Lalibela gathered the world’s greatest craftsmen and artisans to carve out the churches from rock. In fact the excavation of the churches is something of a mystery, some sources estimate that about 40,000 people would have been required to carve them.

Even before visiting the churches, Lalibela is a strikingly singular town. It is perched at an altitude of 2630m among wild craggy mountains and rocky escarpments. There is a stark cathedral like grandeur that is very similar to the Drakensberg Mountains at home. The house of Lalibela are of a design unlike anywhere else in Ethiopia, two-storey circular stone constructs that huddles over the steep slopes on which the town is built. We had seen two other Rock-hewn churches previously but nothing like what these are. The churches here are huge, some in excess of 10m high and because they have been carved below the grounded level they are ringed by trenches and courtyards, the sides of which are cut into with stone graves and hermit cells and connected to each other by a maze of tunnels and passages. Each individual church is unique in shape and size and precisely carved and minutely decorated. What struck us both was the rock is carved completely straight, the walls, windows, different type’s carvings and ornaments carved out of the rock completely symmetrical. If you look at the buildings in Ethiopia, (Tom and Caroline!!!!!) nothing is remotely straight, not a wall not a building anywhere. You just wonder with the type of tools they had in those days, and what “artisans” they must have been. These churches are not primarily tourist attractions, nor are they the crumbling monuments of a dead civilisation. What they are and what they have been for least 800 years is an active Christian shrine, the spiritual centre of a town’s religious life. If you wander between the churches in the thin light of the morning, you will see white-robed hermits and monks emerge bible in hand from their cells and the air is warmed by Eucharistic drumbeats and gentle swaying chants. Any of the churches are being damaged by seepage and for the last few years they have bee protected by roofs and scaffolding. Although this does not feel right or look right they are preserving the churches for future generations.

The churches are divided into two clusters, separated by the “Jordan River” (given its name by King Lalibela). The northwest cluster comprises of seven churches and the southeast cluster consists of five churches. They were constructed by using one of two different methods. One excavated from below the ground and these are surrounded by courtyards and trenches. Some of these are monoliths or semi monoliths, this meaning free from the surrounding rock on three or four sides, a style of excavation that is unique to Ethiopia. The other excavated from a vertical roc face by exploiting existing caves or cracks in the rock. Again to describe each church, one not so easy and again a lot of writing, (Wolf’s words) I will tell you though I visited all 13 churches and to my amazement Wolf managed 8 of them. They are all still in use but I was lucky that only one, were we not able to see the interior. One of the churches, women are prohibited, but Wolf went in and took pictures. I don’t think it is at all possible to take photos which will depict the actual buildings, we can only tell you it is total amazement. The largest of the churches, Bet Mdhane Alem, (the largest in the world) measures 11.5m high and covers an area of almost 800 square mts. It is supported by 36 pillars on the inside and 36 on the outside. The oldest, Bet Maryam, (means Virgin Mary) is the most popular with the people mainly because of it association with the Virgin Mary. It is also smaller and less imposing and has more intimate ad elaborately carved interior with carvings of the original Lalibela Cross and Star of David and dense painting on parts of the roof. It is 13 mts high and its upper floor has seven rooms. One of the smallest is Bet Meskel (means Holy Cross) is barely 40square mts in area. In the courtyards of this church is a pool that s believed to cure infertile woman, they are dipped into the water three times on Ethiopian Christmas (7^th January) the water is green and slimly and they say enough to suggest a favourable effect on procreativity. The water level I about 2m below the courtyard so the women have to be lowered down on a harnessed rope!!!!!!!!

One of the courtyards in the northwest cluster contains the twin churches of Bet Debre and Bet Golgotha. These churches share an entrance together and they form a semi-monolith. These are the most atmospheric with an air of sanctity. Bet Golgotha is the one that women prohibited from entering. This one has seven life-size reliefs of saints carved around its walls. It is also believed that King Laibela is buried beneath a slab on the floor of this church.

I think I have given you the gist of what you see, and we will try to put photos on the website, but for me Lalibela has been the highlight of our trip to Ethiopia.

That evening we found a new (one month old) small ethnic restaurant, Roha Café where we were entertained by a local singer, strumming on a locally made instrument, a real squeak of a noise and singing all about us. He established we were from SA and Bafana Bafana, my hair, Mandela and all sorts of other made up stuff were the songs of the night. Of coarse all in Ethiopian, but we had a translator who told us what he was saying. We were then pulled up to dance, (not dancing as we know it) almost a jumping shaking movement. But I must say, they can move their shoulders like nothing I have seen before. They look almost triple jointed. All in all a super evening.

The next day, we left early (6am) to go south via Dessie, Kombolcha, Debre Sina and to Debre Birhan where we hoped to overnight. The roads again are all being carved up and on entering the town we were diverted about three times, couldn’t find the hotel we had decided to stay in. Wolf now not in the mood for trying to retrace steps pushed on. No more places to stop, we eventually got into Addis at 7.30pm. Its only 695km but again, nothing is easy in Ethiopia. When dark came we were horrified to find that outside of Addis, no one uses their lights until about an hour and a half after dark. We were told later they believe it uses more fuel. There we were driving between people who walk all over the road (no one wears light clothing) no lights, and any animals that are still around. I cannot describe the last two hours. Needless to say, by the time we got back to Wims I was ready to kill!!!!!!!!!

Our plan was then to spend two days doing a quick clean up, repack the trailer to take the weight off the car and head for Djibouti where our car and trailer are packed into the container and sent to Europe. We got back to find that Wims had been nominated to host the October Fest on Saturday so within hours of getting here we were persuaded (did not take much) to stay for the Fest.

We will leave on Sunday, with one stop over west of Addis Ababa at Awash National Park and then onto Djibouti. The balance of Ethiopia will follow with the travel to Europe. Hopefully we can get is on the web before we leave We will also post the pictures from Europe.

KENYA 2

2009-08-24T13:43:00.005+02:00

August 12^th to 22^nd

The day arrived and that we have waited for since we left South Africa. Heather and Nick’s visit to Kenya. True to Kenya form, both the traffic and the road condition were horrendous. Our trip to the airport of 20km took us nearly two hours. So instead of getting to the airport, having a drink and really getting excited, we very nearly were not there to greet them off the plane.

Their first impressions of Kenya were traffic and potholed roads. Anyway Heather and I just chatted and chatted for the duration of the trip to Jungle Junction where we were camping and had booked a room for them. They both agreed for us to get away the next morning for Mombassa by 4.30am, as it was the same road which we had come from the airport and they had, had the experience of the traffic.

Down to Mombasa is about 500km and the first 100km are bad roads, roadworks and crazy drivers. Well even with the road improving it still was an 8 hour drive. Reaching Mombasa, the roads, the crazy drivers and the traffic was not much of an improvement on Nairobi.Included in our drive we had to cross over Mombasa (Mombasa itself is an island) and also over the channel on a ferry as we were going to stay on the South Coast. There are 2 bridges connecting it to the mainland and the North Coast, but the ferry is the only way over to the South Coast.

Through, Thomas, who we had met at Jungle Junction, we were able to rent a really nice guest cottage close to Diani Beach. After settling in we went to the beach, a beach of fine, pure white, talcum like sand.

Soon after Heather and Nick took a long stroll down the beach and were actually really perplexed as to find many of the resorts on this beautiful beach closed. We soon found out, that after the political problems last year, many of the resorts closed due to lack of tourists and still today they have not reopened. It actually just boggles the mind, one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen and all these resorts directly on the beach closed. The beach is almost on a lagoon with the reef in the ocean a little way out. We had quite a bit of wind and the tide was quite far in, but I am sure when the tide is out you could quite easily get out to the reef. We wanted to take a glass bottom boat out to the reef but unfortunately the day we planned it, it was so windy that it would not have been pleasant. The water most of the time was a beautiful sea green, turquoise colour.

Although it was Heather and Nick’s 5^th wedding anniversary, they opted to go back to our cottage, have a swim in a really beautiful warm pool, and sit and chat over pizza’s.

The next day, we chose to cross the Ferry again, and visit Mombasa’s old town and Fort Jesus. It probably was not the right day to do it, as the president chose the day to visit the south coast. Our trip was interrupted by quite a long wait in a side alley for the president and hundreds of police, armed with AK47’s to first proceed.

Fort Jesus was built by the Portuguese in 1593 but taken over by the Arabs in the 1700’s and then the British in 1805 when it was then used as a government prison until 1958. It was quite and interesting tour and for Wolf and I there certainly were similarities of the old town to what we had seen in Zanzibar. But definitely not as well preserved. As we knew the weather was going to turn on the weekend we went back to the beach to make sure we got a bit of sun. Had a real long walk along the super beach and Nick and I went for a swim. Except for the “beach boys” pestering you to buy from the beach stores or sell you a boat cruise it was really super.

Saturday took us again over the ferry to try the North Coast out. Again to cross the city is quite a challenge. We drove up as far as Malindi which is a town which could date back to 1499. (The pillars of Vasco da Gama and an Old Portuguese chapel) Most of the rest of the city seems to date only from the 19^th Century

We did however find a market on the beach to idle a bit time away. Due to a lot of Italian tourists, there is a definite feel of this in the restaurants and ice cream cafes.

The beach and the sea quite pretty but nothing like the south.

South of Malindi is the Gedi Ruins. The mysterious Swahili city, founded in the 13th century, was abandoned 300 years later. No one is quite sure why the inhabitants had to flee, but that and the time that it remained abandoned is still only a guess. It has quite an eerie feeling.

The site is quite well preserved in a forest, of baobabs and tamarind trees towering above the ruins and strangler figs climbing over the walls. The bark of the trees and the stones are the same grey colour and texture lending an organic aspect to the whole city. The streets are narrow and there’s evidence of “sophisticated” plumbing that made use of the tide. The main attraction is the great mosque with its deep well, fluted pillars, thick walls and a large minbar (pulpit) indicating the direction of Mecca.

There is the sultan’s palace with its sunken courtrooms and the remains of the double city walls.

Archaeological evidence indicates the inhabitants left in a hurry. A small museum shows the extent of trade and the complexity of urban life here. There is Ming porcelain, ornate furniture, tombstones, beads from all corners of the ocean and silver jewellery. There is also a model of a mtepe (dhow). Before the time of nails, planks were sewn together with thongs or coconut ropes.

Unfortunately the coast line is not really visible from the road, and we did not have time to go down all the roads to really get a good view. We just ran out of time and never really managed to see everything we had planned.

Sunday came with us all going to church, what an (long) experience, they have continual processions with children, Catholic Women League Ladies, and other members of the church, up and down the isle singing and chanting. A young Italian Couple were also married during the service. Well our men certainly don’t think they have to go to church for the next two Sundays, to make up for the time they spent there. Of coarse it was all in Swahili so a lot you don’t even understand. But all in all it was a super experience for us all. Sunday was again spent walking along the beach, lunch on the beach and a bit of shopping (and haggling) for gifts. We had a super fish braai that evening with Thomas.

Monday we left again quite early for our trip back to Nairobi.

Tuesday, we were collected for our “Safari” to Nakuru National Park and Massai Mara.

Our four days and three nights, were absolutely indescribable. We all concurred at the end that no amount of photos or words can actually cover the sight of lines and lines of Wildebeest and Zebras as far as the eye can see. We were treated to at least two sightings of lion each day, one on a kill, (very recent) three sightings of Cheetah, one with three cubs. We watched the Zebras trying very had to cross the Mara River, but they were very wary and knew the crocodiles were waiting. The river is still very shallow due to no rain so hippos and crocs are quite visible.

Lake Nakuru was a spectacle of thousands upon thousands of Flamingoes, (both greater and lesser )

Pelicans and other water birds in great quantities. The Marabou Storks were in their element, with as much food as they could eat. (Dead flamingos on the Menu)

We were lucky to have had wonderful accommodation in both parks. It really was very special to come home in the evening, to all the luxury you could need. The meals and lunch hampers could not be faulted at all. All been wonderfully prepared and presented.

The resort at Massai Mara, was a tented camp and after this Heather was quite sure she could take to camping, if this is what it was about. About 60 sq mts for the bedroom section and about another half of that for a bathroom. The tent walls were curtained with tie-backs and wonderful matching bedding. Our guide and driver, John was absolutely fantastic, he went out of his way to find whatever we wanted to see. On the last morning, knowing I wanted to see hyena and as most of our drives were during the day, and we had not seen them, he managed to find us two.

The night calls from Lion, Hyena and especially Zebra was absolutely amazing.

For all our friends who have not had the chance to experience this, do yourself a favour and put it on your “list to do”

We were very lucky to have the migration start early as they should not have crossed into Kenya before beginning September.

Other Mammals seen in great numbers, Dewassa Water Buck, Warthog, Loads of Buffalo. Grants and Thompson’s Gazelle, both White and Black Rhino, (most in Nakuru) Kenya Giraffe, Black Backed Jackal, Super Elephant (very relaxed) Topi, Eland, Dik Dik, and Kongoni Hartebeest.

As there was so much to see, not much time was spent on bird life but we still managed to identify about 25 bird species, but nothing we had not seen before in Uganda and Kenya.

Well Friday came too soon and back to Nairobi we went. We had a “barbeque” at the camp site with most of the campers coming and lots of talk and laughter by all.

Saturday took us to the airport for Heather and Nick’s flight back to SA. (Of coarse needless to say, a very tearful Mum) I can’t believe 10 days went so quickly.

Back at the camp we packed up and left for our trip up North. We stopped at a super “Trout Farm” just before Nanukki. The restaurant is built on a platform in the trees and we were treated to a lovely lunch of Fresh Trout and of coarse “Tusker Beer” The norm for your afternoon drink. I cannot believe I have quite taken to the taste of Local Beer. But then at a minimum of R20 for box wine and up to about R45 for a glass of wine out of a bottle it is quite easy to acquire a taste for beer.

Crossed over the equator again, this time doing the exercise of the “Coriolis” effect on the earth’s rotation using a bucket of water and a matchstick. In the northern hemisphere water should go through the plughole anticlockwise, whereas in the southern it flows clockwise. Of course you have the “Equator Professor” doing the demo from about 15mts each way to demonstrate it. Wolf was not so sure it was all “kosher” but it was good fun anyway and it did seem to work.

We overnighted at quite a nice Timau River Lodge, ready for the worst road in Kenya. We have about 550km to the Ethiopian border, but have given ourselves three days to do it.

Just as well, 7 hours later with still 50km of the first half of the journey, the spring broke (again) on the trailer. The wind blowing, trucks passing us, Wolf managed to change the broken spring with the previous one which had been welded and we have saved. This took two hours, and we still had another 50km which took another two hours, arriving in Marsibit at 9pm, it was after 10pm before we managed to find the only place recommended to stay, Henry’s Camp. It was after midnight before we got to bed, exhausted and for me worried about the next 250km the border with no spare spring. This one broke directly in the middle so no hope of welding this one. We have decided to stay over an extra night at Henry’s so that we can try and see what we can do for a spare spring or a tow service if something happens tomorrow.

I am going to finish off Kenya now and we will post the blog today.

This is like a TV serial, stopping and you all have to wait for the next episode to find out if we manage to get to the border!!!!!!!

This will follow in the Ethiopian Section

Gorillas Collage

2009-08-12T16:29:00.000+02:00

KENYA

2009-08-12T14:42:00.003+02:00

KENYA

27^th July to 12^th August, 2009

Left Uganda via Jinta, having a quick look at “the source of the Nile” at Rippon Falls, and went through the Malaba Border.

It seems as you go north so the borders get easier. With our Comesa (Third Party for Africa) and our Carnet de Passage (import car papers for each country) border crossings are really not a problem.

We crossed over and headed on the Nairobi road, stopping the night over at Eldoret.

We found a very nice hotel on the Naiberu River, apparently owned by South Africans,(we did not get to see them) A lot of inventive ideas for the sloping ground, using the waterways and lots of rock to form almost a large cave with open fireplace, running little rivers from a waterfall, for their bar and restaurant. It was rather cold and really our first feel of what weather is to come. It is a long time ago that we needed long pants/tracksuits and thick jerseys.

After and early breakfast left for Nairobi, soon to learn what bad roads Kenya has got and a distance of about 65km and this took us over two hours. Well I suppose we have time and this is “Africa” I must admit the scenery was wonderful because we were passing through the start of the rift valley. (more of this later) After about two hours we reached quite a good “highway” which took us into Nairobi passing Nakuru (going there with Heather) and Lakes Elementia and Naiwasha. Our idea is to go straight through to Nairobi even if it meant us doubling back on our route so we could get our trip with Heather and Nick planned and sorted. This is going to be one of the highlights of our trip and I am counting the days and “sleeps” till they arrive.

We found a quite nice camp site (especially for being in a city) on the outskirts of Nairobi, at Lavington called Jungle Junction. A camper’s paradise for Information and exchanging experiences maps and places to stay. It is like a family of campers, sometimes changing daily and some campers spending up to 3 weeks, repairing your vehicle, doing trips to Maasai Mara and other places, and generally recovering from the dreadful roads especially from the North. Most of the people we met have been English, Dutch, German, Swiss, coming from Europe travelling down South. The road from the Ethiopia Border down to Nairobi is apparently the worst of anyone’s trip. We still have to do it. On the Friday Nite the owners organized a “barbeque” (braai) for the campsite and everyone on site came, it was really a super evening, with everyone exchanging ideas and sharing experiences of their travels.

After spending two days checking internet and travel agents, for our trip with Heather and Nick we decided on 5 days, four nights in Mombassa which we will do in our own car and then three nights in the Maasai Mara with a night over in Lake Nakuru (where the flamingos are) and which is on the way to Maasai Mara. This we are doing with a tour company, (first time for us that we do a safari with all the trimmings) We decided not to put Heather through the camping bit in case she decided never to do another trip with us. More of this after they arrive.

The weather in Nairobi is for the birds, and we are not birds and will be doing enough of that in Europe, so we headed north west to Lake Baringo (only 1000mts altitude) and what a lovely change. Had costumes on from early morning until later afternoon, catching up on the tan and watching birds. We had a fantastic site right on the lake with the Bird Life absolutely stunning. We had a “Family Maier” Bird ground, (Family Maier’s would be quite envious of our birds which visited everyday)

At least three bird species we had not seen before and about 40 species all in all. We were treated to the daily feeding of young hornbills being fed in a nest in a tree right in front of our camp site.

Strange as it was, we had a Grey Hornbill and a Pale Billed Hornbill (white beak with red tip) also feeding the same nest.

The ones we had not seen before or a bit rare were Jackson’s Hornbill, Red and Yellow Barbet, Dusky Pink Turtle Dove, Brown Babbler, Speckled Breasted Wood-Pecker and the Madagascar (Olive) Beeater

We then spent a few nights had Lake Naivasha, visiting Lake Elmenteita from here. Lake Elmenteita is a soda lake and only about 1 and half meters deep at its deepest point. Thousands upon thousands of flamingo live in this lake and also in Lake Bogoria and Lake Nakuru. All these lakes are in the Great Rift Valley. The sightings of the Flamingos are just too beautiful, all you see is a pink shimmer on the water.

From our info, when these female flamingos are about 18months old, she goes to Lake Natron to lay a single egg which she leaves in the sand, for the sun to incubate. 28 days later the chick hatches and feeds on the egg yolk for 7 days before going into the Lake to feed on algae for 3 months before migrating to either Elmenteita, Nakuru or Bogoria to start the whole cycle again. The Marabou storks and African Fish eagles can and do feed on flamingos.

Driving from Lake Baringo to Lake Elmenteita and the surrounding areas you drive through Keyna’s Rift Valley which is only a part of a continental fault system that runs 6000km from Jordan clean across Africa to Mozambique.

It is also the area of where most of Kenya’s flowers are grown and exported to all parts of Europe.

One of the lakes, Lake Magadi, is a vast shallow pool of soda, a sludge of alkaline water and crystal trona deposits,. It is the second largest source of soda in the world, after the Salton Sea in the USA. Some of the sodium chloride (common salt) is shovelled into ridges and loaded onto tractors and taken away to be purified for human and animal consumptions. Mainly the soda from this lake is used for glass-making and is Kenya’s most valuable mineral resource. The dried soda is exported first to Mombassa and Konza and then most of it to Japan.

Back to cold Nairobi for a few days, before going to Mombassa and Massai Mara with Heather and Nick.

UGANDA

2009-07-19T19:57:00.010+02:00

UGANDA.
9th July, 2009
Happy birthday, Tom, thought lots about you, especially as we had seen the Gorillas yesterday. Would be really nice to share a bottle of wine and share our Gorilla experiences.
Left for Uganda today. Through the border at Cyanika. Quite relaxed border, except we had to wait for the computer, which was off line, to be able to pay for our toll road fees. We headed for the Mgahinga National Park which is at the base of the Ugandan side of the Virungu Mountains.
The Virungu Mountains are a chain of 8 freestanding volcanic cones strung long a fault line associated with the same geological process that formed the Rift Valley. They straddle the borders of Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC and are all more than 3000 mt in height..
The Three peaks on the Ugandan side are, 1. Muhovra 4127mt; 2.Gahinga 3474mts; and 3.Sabinyo 3634mts; the direct translations for these are, 1 “The Guide” Its perfect cone topped by a small crater lake that stilled glowed until the 19th century. 2.”A small pile of stones” – a name that becomes clear when you see local people still today gathering stones and putting them into heaps of rocks to tidy their fields. 3.”Old mans teeth,” which refers to the jagged rim of what is the most ancient of the 8 volcanoes in the Vicuña’s. The views are absolutely stunning dominated by the steep volcanic cones of the mountains.
It was so cold, that Wolf “ wheeled and dealed” with the owner and took a “banda” instead of camping. Quite Good Price, R120.00 per night. Obviously only a room with a “bathroom” at the back. But we did not have to share with anyone. Hot water supplied in the afternoon for your shower, and long drop toilets with a seat.
10th July.
Golden Monkey Tracking.
A golden monkey has a bright orange gold body and cheeks, with black limbs and tail. Years ago, they were common in both Rwanda and Uganda. After the genocide and the Gishwani Forest being chopped down the golden monkey was left with only a small population. Today between Uganda and Rwanda the population is estimated to be about 3000 to 4000. They are mainly found in the cane at the top of the forest. After a good 8 km, very disappointed, we had to give up. But one thing the wild is not, is a zoo and that’s why we are where we are today and being able to track them in the wild is how we want to see them. That’s nature and that’s where we want to be. However we had a super guide, Kenneth (could not forget his name) and while waiting at times for the trackers in front we did quite a bit of bird watching. The best for me was the Rwenzori Turaco. We saw 22 other species of which 5 were endemic to the region and 4 new to me.
On return to the campsite, we arranged a local rice and vegetable dinner in the “restaurant.” We had dinner with an German guy from Aachen who was doing Uganda and Rwanda on a bicycle. He had his bike flown out in a crate and arriving in Kampala headed out for the mountains, the chimps and the Gorilla’s in Rwanda.
We left the next day and travelled via Kisora and Kabale to Mbarara. Both Rwanda and Uganda are built on 1000 hills. This trip makes you realise just how hilly the countryside is. But with all these hills, virtually every steep slope is cultivated by the locals with tea, maize, potatoes, bananas, forestry and vegetables. The hills look like huge patch work quilts. Each crop in huge squares, so meticulously tidy. The tea plantations are magnificent.
Here we stayed at Fort Caleb Rest house, which was originally built for a family retreat for the daughter of the Prime Minister. (It had a real bath and hot water) I had a hot bath both evening and morning. A big smile for me.
The next day, Sunday, the 12th we left for Queen Elizabeth National Park. We chose to camp outside of the main camp area, overlooking the channel, which links Lake Edward and Lake George. From our campsite over the channel, we had beautiful views of dozens of Elephants ad hundreds of Buffalo, all bathing in the channel. The only disadvantage is there is no shower at the camp site, but that wasn’t a problem for me, Wolf heated the Solar Shower and I had a really warm shower. We had the site completely to ourselves and really enjoyed the silence.
On Monday morning, we left at 6am, as the entrance to the tracking of the chimps was about 52km at the other end of the park. We were treated to a lovely sight of 5 hyenas playing just next to the road. We never realised we would see so few hyenas in the wild, after having them at the bungalow for so many years, every night.
We started our track at 8am, all kitted out in long pants, socks pulled up over the pants, long sleeves, all to protect you from Mozzies, Safari Ants, etc.
Within 10 minutes of descending into the Kyambura Gorge, (the gorge is 16km long and about 100mts deep) we heard the chimps calling, unfortunately even moving quite quickly after our guide, by the time we got to where the sound had come from we seemed to have missed them. A further 9km later walking sometimes around in circles, we had to give up. Very disappointed with our second tracking. But again, it is in the wild and we weren’t about to give up.
In the afternoon we had a “boat game drive” on the channel. Again plenty of Elephant, Buffalo, Hippo, Crocodiles and Defassa Waterbuck (does not have the circle on the bum, just a rather large patch of white and has more loose hair on the face, also a lot darker than ours at home) Of coarse, as we motored along the shoreline we saw lots of birds. The last bit before we turned around back to camp, we were treated to a wonderful sight of dozens of both Pelican Species, and too many water birds to mention.
That night we went to bed, with the sounds of Lions, Elephants and hippos.
While enjoying a super braai, with an “Andreas & Wolfgang” Fire we even had banded Mongoose darting in and out.. Being so close to the Equator, the sun only goes down after 7pm, so fire and meal is started in the light. Unfortunately, the sun also comes up later in the morning, so getting up early not so wonderful.
Did a quiet but lovely game drive out of the park the next morning, seeing lots of Elephant and Uganda Cob.
Our trip up to Kibale Forest took us through Fort Portal; here we camped at Ambere Caves, which is in a lovely hilly area dotted with crater lakes. After pitching our tent in a lovely garden, green grass and trees, we went on a short hike, with Wilson the owner/manager of the camp. The full name of the caves is Amabere ga Nyinamwiru which means “Breasts of Nyinamwiru. This refers to the live stalactite formation supposedly shaped like a pair of breasts. One set are actually more reminiscent of deformed cow udders, especially that there are 8. The local guides story and the story in the guide book definitely is not the same. The main cave quite small is very pretty, supported by several pillars formed where stalactites and stalagmites have met in the middle. Local tradition says that anybody who touches these formations will get lost in the caves or be visited by misfortune. A lovely, quite powerful waterfall lies next to the main cave. One can stand on the moss covered rocks behind the water fall and see the ice cold water plunge down right in from of you. The forest around is home to mounds of birds and a few Black and White Colobus Monkeys.
The next morning, while we packed up, we had a super sighting of a Ross turaco.
Leaving on the 15th we left for Kimbali Forest to have another go at Chimp Tracking. Stopping at Kanyanchu, (where the tracking of the chimps are done from) we were told that there was only a space for the afternoon tracking and nothing else for another week. (It was like the repeat of the Gorilla’s) Well again, when you have to move you move, within an hour we had found a super, super camp, “Chimps Nest “ dropped off the trailer, changed into the “Chimp Tracking clothes,” again, and got back in time for our briefing.
This time, luck prevailed, we were no more than 1km into to the forest, when we saw one lone Chimp, quite high up in the trees. Spending about five minutes with him, our guide felt we should move on. Again after a 90min walk and no chimps, we were all feeling a little disappointed, but within moments, there our guide was rushing us through the forest and there we were, again awed by these creatures. (they say, Chimps, share more than 98% of their genes with humans) Unlike other primates they don’t live in troops, but in extended communities of up to 100. Most of male chimps spend most of their lives within the community that they were born into, where females are likely to migrate into neighbouring communities after reaching adolescence. A highly ranking male will attempt to monopolise a female in oestrus. A young female in oestrus will generally mate with any male that takes her fancy, while older females tend to form closer bonds with a few specific males but never pairing off exclusively in the long term.(And they say they 98% the same as humans!!!!!!) Men don’t you say anything.
Before 1960 it was always assumed that Chimps were vegetarians but after Jane Goodall witnessed them hunting down red colobus money, it has been discovered to be common behaviour particularly during the dry season where food sources are depleted. Apparently because we are taller than the chimps they perceive us as more powerful and that is why they do not challenge us, note that a big male can pick up 4 times his body weight. A male can weigh up to 55kilos.
This is also the reason why no children under 12 are allowed to track the chimps.
We first had only 4 males, but soon another 10, which included two babies, joined them. Mostly they spent their time quite high up in the trees, feeding off fig fruits, sometimes more fruit being thrown down, than what they ate. A few times you, not only had to dodge the fruits but also the “rain” while they decided to relieve themselves. We were allowed to spend 1 hour with them, watching them play and climb up and down. Chimps having no tails, (only a stump) can’t jump from trees, but they jump down from branch to branch, this makes photographs quite tricky, thank heaven for digital cameras, lots of deleting to follow. Andreas, in the old days, this would have been a very costly exercise for those clicking fingers. Again the hour went by so quickly and like the feeling of exhilaration of seeing the Gorillas, we felt so lucky and privileged to be able once again to be with Africa’s special primates. On our way out of the forest, we managed glimpses of the Black and White Colobus and the red tailed monkey.
Back at our Campsite, one not in our Bradt Book or mentioned on tracks for Africa, we found to be one of the best. A super hot and clean shower owned and run by a Dutch couple whose motto is hygiene, silence, comfort and quality the most important. It is not fenced and on the border of the Forest. They have about 8 different species of monkeys, (none of which visit your campsite) forest elephants and quite a few night mammals like Potto, genet, and serval. While we were there we met Tarsi and Filistea, both South Africans. Tersia is a doctor who lives in Pretoria and practices in Midrand, and her sister who has recently relocated to Kampala with her husband. We soon found we had lots in common, had visited lots of the same places. Both of us had done all the same places in Namibia last year. We found that we had booked the same trip for the next morning to the Bigodi Swamp walk with numerous birds and monkeys. Both very adventurous had left Kampala by bus to Fort Portal, caught boda-bodas, (a motor cycle with seat on the back) and then a taxi to get to the main road of where we camped then a walk of about 2km to the resort. Filistea much younger than us and Tersia not so much, I must say that we were both in awe of what they accomplish together. I know neither Wolf nor I would like to do without each others strengths.

We did the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary guided walk together, about a walk of about 6.5km for the full trip. It is a small sanctuary, which protects the Magombe Swamp. Our guide Alex did us proud, we saw at least 37 different species of birds, of which 13 were endemic or only from East Africa. I will list all birds of Uganda at the end of the trip. The monkeys we saw were the Western Red Colobus (different from the one we saw in Zanzibar), the Black and White Colobus, the Grey Cheeked Mangabey, and the Red Tailed Monkey. The best of the day was the Great Blue Turaco and both Male and Female Black and White Casqued Hornbill.
We were actually sorry to leave such a lovely campsite and beautiful area. But Kampala is calling, we need to get Ethiopian Visa’s, have the car serviced and check on our shipping arrangements for Djibouti. We also need to stay on track as we need to be in Kenya for the beginning of August, so as to plan Heather & Nicks visit. I can’t believe in a month, Heather and Nick you will be with us, we can’t wait.
Saturday, 18th July, We left Kibale Forest, via Fort Portal for Kampala, giving Tersia and Filistea a lift and having company with them who knew Kampala and could help direct us to a campsite.
There is no description of the “traffic” in Kampala, Wolf’s description is, this is not traffic it’s just “Chaos”. Everybody for his own, there is only one way here, you just go. We have been told that the American Embassy did a survey on the worst traffic in the world and Uganda has been rated 2nd worst.
KAMPALA- 18th July – 22nd July
We found a really busy but very good value and facilities at Red Chilli in Kampala. Pitched our tent, they have a very slow internet connection but its there and free of charge.
Just chilled with a beer and had a meal in their restaurant.
Sunday, we found a church, with 6 masses on Sunday, including 3 English ones. Dawn was really happy. Found Shoprite and Game in one centre and another shopping mall with good imported goods and even a “Butchers Grill”. Lots of imported meat, at more than imported prices. We had a drive around Kampala to see where the Ethiopian Consulate was so the next morning we would not get lost in the “chaos” Found an agent for Mitsubishi and Monday we were there at 7.30am when they opened, managed to get the car in for service and then a lift to the Ethiopian Embassy. Surprise and exaltations, arriving at 8.30 when they opened we were out at 10.00am with visa’s all sorted. We messed around the centre and organized with Tersia and Filistea to go to Jinja on Tuesday and White River Raft down the Nile.
Picked up our vehicle, of coarse got a shock at the cost, but all in all I suppose 14000 km from SA our well hard worked vehicle deserved a service. Got the website updated with our photos. I wish our friends at home could be with us to share the wonderful experiences we have had. No words and even photo’s can tell you how much fun and wonderful experiences we have had.
We were collected by “Adrift Adventures” for our trip to Jinja, about 90min drive in the horrific traffic.
Arriving they rush you through a quick briefing, kit you up quick, life-jackets and helmets.
It starts off at Bujagali Falls and finishes about 30km down the Nile. The rapids are graded in 1-6. On our trip we had a 2, a 3, four 4’s and four 5’s. Well the first they call “a face wash” and that it was, it wakes you up and you get ready for the rest. They give you instruction if the raft tips over, or you fall out. The safety kayaks are waiting to collect you if you come adrift. Those guys in the Kayaks are something else, they can come down a rapid, flip over and do a full circle under water coming up with no problem. They name the rapids, like, Big Brother, Overtime, Ribcage, Surf City, Silverback etc.
We were nine in our raft, Tersia, Filistea, Wolf, Dawn and a young couple from America, James and Electra, and a Dutch guy, Patrick. Well soon not knowing anyone, you become quick friends with lots of laughs. The first to fall out the raft was Tersia on a number 5. A few rapids later out went Patrick. Our raft never went over once, we did a total vertical number twice but the raft never flipped. (Probably all my prayers.) But this was the most exhilarating experience one could do. Half way down we stopped at a small island and given a super buffet style lunch, cold meat, salads, fruit, and drinks. The after lunch rapids are more spread out, so lots of paddling, swimming from time to time, laughs are the order of the afternoon. Not too say the last rapids are two 4’s and two 5’s. There was a second raft behind us, they flipped once and also came down the wrong rapid and went over a small waterfall. It was wonderful to watch
At one point we were out watching our safety guys in their “kayaks” going over a “6”. I think our entire group were ready to redo the trip again the next day.
On completion, they had a “braai” of sosatie sticks of meat or veg and a “roti” bread with beer or coldrinks, before taking us back to Kampala. A trip none of us will forget, hopefully Wolf will be able to capture some of the photos which were taken on the website.
Wednesday, we collected our videos, met Tersia and Filistea to exchange photos and the video and got ready for departure to Murchison Falls.
23rd to 26th July.
Flanking the Victoria Nile some 300km northwest of Kampala, Murchison Falls National Park is the largest protected area in Uganda. The waterfall is one of e most electrifying sights in East Africa.
We spent one night just outside the entrance to the park in a community camp run by the Bomu Women’s group. We stayed in a “banda” the thatch roof is so low that you have to duck to get through the door. But it was clean and different. The shower is an enclosed area and you get a drum of water, which you hitch up onto the “wall” and open the lid when you are ready to rinse. The toilet is a long drop, a bit different from any we have seen. There is two sections to it, one part is like the normal drop (poo) and in front there is a small “pee hole”. The sign on the wall, (hey guys this is genuine) “Don’t Shit in the Pee Hole Please”
On arrival at the falls, we set up camp at the sister camp of Red Chilly, (from Kampala) really quickly and organized out trip down the Nile to the base of the Falls.
The trip was about 3 and half hours. The surprise was a quick view of a leopard on its way for a drink at the river. We also saw the Jackson’s Hartebeest (supposed to be very “doff” his memory is so bad he forgets when the lion is chasing him) We also saw lots of Hippo, and quite a few birds, the unusual, being Red throated Bee Eater; Spur winged Lap Wing, and the Rock Pratnicole.
The Falls are 43mts high and the water is forced through a 7mt cleft in the rocks which makes the sheer power of the water an amazing sight.
We had a super potjie for supper and really enjoyed being in the quiet of a park again. Like our Hyenas in camp at Ingwelala, they have Warthogs, who even can smell food in your tent and have no problem to eat their way in.
The best game drive is in the Nile Delta. For this you need to go over the Nile River on a ferry, which leaves from 7am on the hour. It only takes 8 vehicles, so early in the queue is a definite and even that is not enough, you need to push and shove to get on. Wolf’s push and shove got us on the early ferry, we had a super game drive, lions (trying very hard to catch a buffalo) Bushbuck, lots of “Doff” Jackson’s Hartebeest, hundreds of Oribi, Uganda Kob, herds of Giraffe (Rothschild’s) sometimes 50 in one time, Defassa Waterbuck, Buffalo, a nice herd of Elephant with 3 babies, and some Patas Monkeys.
Birds we had not seen before were, Denham’s Bustard, Western Marsh Harrier, a Blue Headed Coucal, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Vieillots Black Weaver, Northern Red Bishop and a pair of Abyssinian Ground Hornbill.
After our game drive we went back over the ferry, this takes a bit of time, we had to drive about 25km south of the camp and saw the top of the falls. Here only can you really appreciate the staggering power with which the Nile crashes through this narrow gap in the escarpment, not to mention the deafening roar and the voluminous spray.
The route out the next morning we had a quick glimpse of a bush pig and a couple of forest duikersand another pair of Abyssinian Hornbills. All in all about 40 species of birds.
Our trip back to Kampala went a lot quicker and we managed to get to Church (Sunday). Church for me in Africa, especially Uganda is just so intense and moving. Even Wolf who stood outside for some of the mass on Sunday evening remarked how much he enjoyed the singing. You can hear their voices for at least two blocks away. In Rwanda I went to a weekday mass (6.15am) and there were about 150 people in church.
One of Uganda’s staple food, is a Green Banana’s they are called Matoke, and when they are green they are cooked like a potato, any way you want, you can make chips, mash, boil, fried and we even made “potato pancakes” twice. They really taste just like potatoes. You have to buy them in ”BULK”, see the photo on the website. When they started to ripen, we had fried bananas and banana fritters.
We left very early for our trip out of Uganda, going through Jinja to the border at Mbale. I am getting too exited for Kenya, Heather and Nick arrive in 16days time and we have lots to organize. A very easy border to cross and soon we were in Kenya.
Some Stats just for the record, we have been on our trip for 102 days, done just over 16000km set up the tent 36 times, and slept in other accommodation 20times. We can put up camp now in about 15min and if we are organized can pack up in the morning, with the bathroom run and coffee in 40minutes. Rwanda and Uganda blew the budget a bit because we did so much tracking and the parks are expensive but all in all it was worth every penny. Personally I think Uganda was the best since leaving home and we certainly could have spent more time in the country. The Highlights have to have been the Gorillas and the water rafting down the Nile a close second. We actually did not have a lowlight to speak of but the road to and from the parks are really poor, so maybe this would be the worst of the trip.

RWANDA

2009-07-09T07:58:00.004+02:00

RWANDA.
4thJuly to 9th July

We left Mvanza at 8am hoping to sleep just before the border to Rwanda, unfortunately we found no where, wait I lie, Wolf found a place and went in to see what it was like, came out reported to his wife, (Muslim toilet and a grin on his face) enough for me, “please lets go on”. Well we then had to go through the border. What a wonderful relaxed and welcome border. “How long do you want to stay” we welcome you for as long as you want. No visa fees for either of us, no toll fees. The only border we have ever crossed with no costs.
While at the border, on the Tanzania side (and we were lucky where we parked, Wolf was a bit worried about blocking a truck in, so he reversed as far back so as not to block a truck that might have had to leave before us). While we were in the immigration office we heard yelling and screaming and a truck crashing through the barrier, (Rwanda is built on one thousand hills, including the border post on the Tanzania side) a truck lost his breaks and careered down the slope and turned over before going onto bridge which would have been even worse. By the time we got through customs and left the border a petrol tanker was trying to pull the truck over to get the driver who was trapped out.’
You just ask yourself how lucky and blessed you are, five minutes either way, we could have been in the car, or worst, Wolf reversing the car.
Rwanda has no camping, so we ended up in a small village 90km before Kigale, and stayed at a guest house, Sunrise Guest House. Not too bad, as least it had a normal toilet and sort of hot water. Dinner was of coarse, very, very fresh chicken with very long wings and legs. Not sure if it was a runner or a flier!!!!!!!!!!
We left the next morning for Kigale, if you don’t have a map and then even if you do have one, this city is unbelievable to try and understand. Two hours after arriving in the city we had managed to find a book shop, buy a proper Bradt book with proper maps, find a place to stay. Had a Chinese Lunch and then went up to the Genocide Memorial/Museum. This tries to give you an insight on how in three months 1 million men, women and children were slaughtered. I say only an insight because no matter how one thinks, it is impossible to understand it fully. Actually both of us decided short of a short account of where we visited and what we saw, we would not be putting anything on the website. It is far too emotional and impossible to describe. We visited the memorial which is very well laid out, one section – he build up to and the actual account of the million people killed, the second where accounts from survivors are on tape, write ups and pictures of some of the children killed and also a section where genocides happened all over the world. Outside there are mass graves and a rose garden has been planted around. You come away emotionally drained and hope and pray that in our world today this will never happen again. We also visited the church in Kibuye where 4000 women and children were killed while trying to hide. The town of Kibuye is on Lake Kivu which runs for almost 100km along the Congo border. It has a surface area of 2200 square km. It is among the 20 deepest lakes in the world, with a maximum dept of 480m.
On route to the Volcanoes National Park, we took a road of about 94 km through the hills, (Rwanda the country of 1000 hills) winding up and down, altitudes changing from 1500 to 2200m. The road is really all volcanic rock, so for Wolf it was dreadful, for his wife, it was wonderful, no speed more than 20km. You had time to see the beautiful scenery and everywhere you looked into the hills, there were areas of crops, bananas and tea. The tea plantations are immaculately kept.
We had enquired in Kibal about seeing the Gorillas here and were told that it was fully booked for the following two weeks, we were very disappointed but decided to try anyway. Spent a night in Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) at a catholic mission who allows campers. Went to early morning mass (6.15am) and then left to try and wait it out at the Volcanoes National Park where the tracking of Gorillas are. We arrived as all the vehicles for the day were leaving, they have 5 habituated troops and only allow 8 people in each group per day. Well all we were about to do is be close to their offices and ensure in the next few days, if there was a cancellation we would be there to take it up. What a surprise when one of the vehicles being held up because of three non arrivals, a quick do you have cash to pay, and can you leave immediately. You have never seen people change as quickly, within minutes we were on our way.
After a walk of 6km into the forest, (mainly uphill) the nettles (they sting like crazy) we reached them at an altitude of about 2800m. (must tell my gym friends, I really managed well, could not have done it a year ago) Just for encouragement you get a “porter”. For a small fee, the ex poachers are now employed as porters, they carry your photo equipment if you need a pull or a push they do that too. (a bit of cheating on the side) You do have to climb over trees, rocks etc. They have a soldier in front and one at the back. It is for protection from wild animals, (we never saw any) You also have a tracker, a guide and a guy who slashes the way through the nettles etc. Our guide was Oliver and tracker were really good.
Nothing can prepare you for the impact of encountering these beautiful creatures. Our group consisted of 2 silverbacks (between 200-220 kg) 1 black backed, 3 females, 2 juveniles and 2 babies, one which was only 3 months old. They were remarkably peaceable and tolerant of our presence. We felt privileged to spend an hour (that’s all you get watching them as they go about their daily routine, feeding, playing, and sleeping. This forest was where Dian Fossey lived for l8 years. The gorilla’s habitat in the mountainous north is the string of magnificent Virunga peaks that range from 2500 to 4500 mts. There are 6 volcanoes in the mountains.
Well we will be posting some pictures on the web to share with you, but no pictures can do justice to how we felt in the hour we spent up there.
The highlights and lowlights of Rwanda, easy to recognize, but both, Gorillas and the Genocide Memorials being very deep and emotional feelings.

The new government are determined that there are no more Hutus, Tutsis or Twa, just Rwandans and what we found in Rwanda is a very clean country with many people who just wanted to chat with us.For me, I will always remember Rwanda as one of the highlights of our trip

TANZANIA 2

2009-07-03T17:37:00.009+02:00

TANZANIA 2
19th-23rd June.

After our trip to Zanzibar, we left and went up north about 70km to a Village called Bagamoya, again a village from around about the 1800’s. Being on the sea it was also related to the slave trade years. Very much a small place of old buildings like “Stone Town”. The now fish market was originally the slave market. There is a very impressive 2 storey building “German Boma” which is now being restored; an old fort built by an Arab trader in 1860 as a stone prison with a subterranean passage which leads to a landing point where the slaves were herded into dhows on the shore. Since then the Germans used it as a garrison and later it was used as a police post. Today it is the department of Antiquities. In the same grounds there is a plaque “Hanging Tree: it was here the Germans hung Africans who were considered insufficiently sympathetic to their rule, (nothing changed much!!!!!!!) About 5km out of town we visited the “Koole Ruins”. The main ruin is of a large Mosque, the stairs to the pray room still partly intact; 22 graves including four tall pillar tomb stones of about 7 m high. According to the guide, the higher the tomb stone the more important the person was. A well, which still holds fresh water, is next to a footbath. The mosque is said to be consistent from the 7th century.
We also visited the “Holy Ghost Mission” built in 1872. One of the oldest churches on the east African Mainland. A newer church was constructed before World War 1 and is really very simple but beautiful. I went to mass there on Sunday (in Swahili) before leaving for Arusha.
On our way up to Arusha, we stayed over at Moshi, the town at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, hoping to get the at least a photo of a sunrise or sunset with the famous mountain, but we weren’t in luck. Neither afternoon nor morning gave us a clear view. Apparently at this time of the year it usually is clouded over. Reminds you a little of “Gods Window”
Spent one night (enough for anyone) in Arusha, filling up with the necessary stocks. Managed to get brandy KWV 3year old, (cheaper than Klippie-R120) for R85.00. Diesel is cheaper outside of the city but not too bad at an average of R8.40 per lt. If you are in a party of 6 then using a tour operator into the parks works out cheaper but us being only two this did not pan out and we decided to do the parks on our own.
24th -26th June.
Tarangire National Park.
We left early and managed to get into the park by 11.30. All park entrance fees are worked on a 24hour basis. If you get in by 11.30 then you must be out the next day at 11.30. Costs for this park were US$35 each, the car US$40 and camping in the public campsite, US$30 each. So each day cost us US$170. The private camp sites which have no facilities at all are US$50 each. We decided to save a bit and went to the public campsite; you do get cold water showers and clean toilets. Anyway, we made the most of our time there. Out on a drive until 6pm and getting up and out by 6.30am in the morning. (Robyn that’s when you asked me why we were up so early in your sms) At this rate you see as much as you can. We certainly did that, our first drive yielded thousands of Zebras, Wildebeest, hundreds of Elephants, lots of Giraffe (Massai- they are really dark), impala and lots of Thompson’s Gazelle’s The unusual was a Kirks Dik Dik. In smaller numbers, buffalo, Kongoni (type of Hartebeest, similar to the red but lighter in colour, warthog and Defassa Water buck. Birds of prey – unbelievable. The marabou storks almost in every tree in and around the water. The bird life was tremendous, birds seen here that were not familiar at home, were the Superb Starling; Ashey Starling; Yellow Necked Spurfouwl; Barefaced Go away Bird, the Tanzanian Red Billed Hornbill, Magpie Long Tailed Shrike, and a White faced buffalo weaver.

In general this park is more densely vegetated than Serengeti and a mix of acacia and mixed woodland. Baobab trees abundant throughout the park. They say that you can see 500 elephant in a day and honestly I think we did. Much to Dawn’s delight!!!! They have an unusual antelope, a Gerenuk but no matter how hard we tried we weren’t in any luck to get a glimpse of it.
Altogether a super park, I would not have missed it.

26th & 27th June.
On our way to the next park, we visited the Massinga Snake Park, where a couple who had left Durban (Pinetown) about 17 years ago and built up a camp site, restaurant and bar and the snake park. Lynn and Barry, were really super and helped us plan the next few days. When the arrived (20km outside of Arusha) there was actually nothing, just sand and sand. We left them and stayed outside of Lake Manyara Park at a small village called Mto wa Mbu.. Took a day drive into the park, arrived at the gate at 6.10am to be told unfortunately the office staff had not arrived. Had to wait until 6.45am for them to arrive. (So don’t think SA is so bad) They were not really perturbed it was a Saturday and that seems to mean the start of the weekend and they can be late. The shop at the gate did not even open, it should have been open from 8am until 5pm.
This national park is about 330 square kilometres but about two thirds of this is made up of water. The land is made up of a grassy floodplain, a belt of thick acacia woodland and a lush and extensive patch of groundwater forest. On entering, you go through the forest, where we saw, the blue monkey (which looks black with a very long tail and very shy) a Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, (check your books, very different to any of our hornbills) and the Olive Baboon. (A little different in face features.) In the rest of the forest we had lots and lots of butterflies and quite a few very shy bushbucks.
We then went onto see herds and herds of Wildebeest, Zebra and lots of elephants (very big tuskers). The unusual was the Kirk’s Dik Dik. Lake Manyara is famous for its tree climbing lions; unfortunately we did not see any. Our highlight was Flamingos. We travelled along side shoreline for 3km+ and we were treated to the most magnificent sight of Flamingo’s, meters deep, as far as the eye could see. At one waterhole, we had dozens of huge pelicans; at least 20 of the common water birds, Zebras, Wildebeest, Hippos. Birds of a difference in the park were again the Bare-faced Go-away birds, the Superb starling, the Ashey Starling. Altogether we identified about 30 different birds and equally as many as we could not identify.
.
28th June to the 2nd July.
We left on Sunday after church and a leisurely breakfast for Ngorongora Conservation Area.
Here we killed some time stopping on route for lunch (very fresh chicken and chips, I am sure they just killed it when they saw us arrive!!!!!!) This way we could get into the N.C.A only by about 3pm as again here you are charged per 24hour period. We wanted to go into the crater the next morning early and we needed to be out of the NGA by 3pm the next day in order to get to camp in the Serengeti by 5pm. You really have to time yourself well.
Just a little bit of info on the area and Crater, if you are not interested just page down, but for those (like me) who do not know and would like to, I will add some info.
Over 500 million years ago, the rock that underlies the area was formed. Movements in the earth’s crust forced the rock up above sea level exposing it to weather. Rain, sun and wind broke and sculpted the rock for millions of years. The hardest of the ancient rocks have endured these unrelenting forces of erosion. They now jut from the plains as hills and inselbergs. You can see the hard, white or reddish quartzite capping the softer, grey or pink gneiss in the Gol Mountains and the Lemuta Hill. The kopjes on the Serengeti Plain are mostly gneiss and granite, the remnants of old hills that are still eroding away. 200 million years ago the super continent “Pangaea” started splitting apart. 20million years ago the earths crust weakened then split. The edges of this pulled apart and the land between sank. The sunken land melted underneath so even hotter lava could rise through fissures to build the volcanoes.
When rifting started in the Ngorongoro area, the cliff that was thrust up as the land sank to the east formed today’s Eyasi escarpment. This old rift wall run past Lake Eyasi as a spectacular granite cliff up to 1000metres high, then under the Ngorongoro highlands, and along the east side of the Gol Mountains. Most of this early rift is now obscured by the lava that began to well out of the fracture some 15 million years ago. The lava built up layer by layer. Eventually, fresh lava could only find a limited number of openings, and these built slowly into volcanoes. From the layering of distinctive basalt and ash from each volcano we can guess that among the oldest are Oldeani, Sadiman and Lemagrut. Sadiman’s eruption 3.6million years ago preserved the “fossil footprints” at Laetoli. Oldeani stopped growing when it exploded, creating a great cleft facing west. Ngorongoro was slowly accumulating bulk, and by 2.5 million years ago may have rivalled Kilimanjaro in size. But as its vents filled with solid rock, the molten material was forced elsewhere. As the lava subsided, the top Ngorongoro collapsed inward, forming the caldera.
By about two million years ago, the main features of this area had been formed and volcanic activity diminished. The new mountains caught the rain which began to carryout canyons. The water carried stone and mud downwards, cascading over escarpment and spreading out into lakes in the lowlands. The lakes that formed in the broad rift valley were then much larger that they are today. The minerals that were washed into the lakes built up, making the water alkaline and leaving deep soda pans when dried up. The shallow lake fluctuates and still varies in size from season to season year to year.
As you view the present landscape, you can appreciate the great age of the worn crystalline hills and kopjes and the richness of the plains. They say that a grander setting for the wildlife you could not see.
When you reach the crater rim there is the most super view. You are about 2200 metres above sea-level. There are both dry and wet sides to the Crater’s rim. To the east and south-east the rim is clothed in forest and very often blanketed in fog. The west and northeast are dry. From the rim you can look down some five hundred metres to the crater floor (only some of us with good eyes.) Open grassland, streams, swamps, lakes, forests, hills and steep slopes. All this allows so many animals to live together in a small area. There is plenty of water and this enables so many grazing animals and predators to live here.
Okay now that you have got a bit of “geography”/”history”. I will get down to what we saw and experienced. We camped on the rim, unfortunately it was quite overcast and we did not get a nice sunset. But the excitement was there, it is unbelievable what you feel. We were woken up in the night to a noise outside, Wolf got out, flashlight (thanks to the Maier’s) and right about 8 mts away were two huge elephants, one was a tusker of note. Gee what adrenaline. We were ready by 6am to go down. It was still fairly dark but by the time we started descending it was getting light, still a little overcast.
It passes around the lip of the crater for about 7km and then contours along the slopes of the depression and suddenly opens up to an eastern view of the crater floor. The road dives steeply down the inner wall of the crater. The side of the crater is still the main entrance and exit route for wild animals and livestock (who still are allowed in the crater.) You descend slowly because of the steep and windy rocky road and have really time to look at the vegetation and birds.
The area below is very difficult to describe, 260 square km. Forest almost all yellow fever trees; Swamp; open grasslands; and the lakes.
We were lucky to see lots of lions, herds of zebras, wildebeest, Thompson’s and Grants Gazelles; and buffalo. On the lesser side, side and black backed jackal, Hyena, Kongoni and Topi. Bird wise about 16 species we had not seen on our trip before, and lots of what we had seen. The lakes were really great and the forest areas really great. Unfortunately, we needed to be up and out of the crater by noon to be able to fetch our trailer and get through the NCA by 3pm. (A bit expensive for less than 6 hours in the crater itself, R3400, although this does include the whole24 hours) A once in a lifetime experience.
On a really corrugated road, taking about 2 and half hours, to do 85km. We reached Seronera, almost the centre of Serengeti where we had booked for three days. You can only book a public camp site if you have done it at Arusha and then if there is space, unfortunately we could not get one but this turned out quite well, we had a camp site bordering a plain, which when we arrived was full of zebras and wildebeest. On our way in, we saw lots of the normal but the unusual for us was a lion in a tree. We still have not got used to this yet. Set up camp and went for a quick drive. After a super night, with lions roaring from two different directions, hyenas and jackals calls, we got up early and went for a five hour drive. For me Serengeti was the ultimate, we were rewarded with thousands and thousands of Zebra and Wildebeest, Elephants, lions on rocks and in trees, Buffalo, Giraffe, Topi, Kongoni, Warthogs, Tree Hyrax, Hippos, Crocodile and even two Cheetah. All in one game drive. Birds again, lots and lots. The birds of prey, too many to count and some even impossible to identify. The unusual were, Chestnut Bellied Sandgrousse; Cinnamon Chested Bee- eater; Fishers Love Bird; a Shelly’s Starling; Greater Blue-eared Starling; a Darnaubs Barbet; Blue Headed Cougal.
Early next morning, we were treated to the most magnificent noise of three different prides of lions all calling from different directions, when the sound was really close, Wolf got out of the tent, with Maier Spotlight, there no more than 25mts were 3 lionesses and one male lion walking across the plain.
For me the Serengeti had been the highlight of my trip so far. Wolf was very awed by the Crater and Serengeti and the start of the migration.
Our trip out of the Serengeti was no less tremendous, at times we had Wildebeest and Zebra’s as far as the eye could see. The Wildebeest were running in front of us for minutes as a time and then across the plains and back again. Just hope Heather and Nick we will see the same. Once out of the park, we took a day to just cool off and make notes and acknowledge how lucky we were to be able to spend this time and able to still afford this wonderful experience.
2nd – 3rd July.
Spent two nights at Mwanza on Lake Victoria at the Mwanza Yacht club. Had a couple of meals out, including another “Fresh Chicken”, met some super SA men who were playing squash, and gave us a good supermarket to shop in, and a pizza place for a meal. Really good but really pricey. Wolf had broken his glasses and after a run around of directions, got a new frame for R120.00. Had my spare pair which I broke, at the hot springs, (had too much too drink and fell in the pool) fixed for nothing. Had a small repair to the car fixed at a Mitsubishi agent for a very reasonable price. (No invoice of course)
Left on the 4th July for Rwanda
Just a few additions.
In Tanzania, all speed bumps, and they have hundreds, especially through all the towns, some are one big, some are 5 small bumps, and some are just dreadful, they are called ‘SLEEPING POLICEMAN” and they work, they irritate the hell out of Wolfgang. The only good thing is they don’t give out fines. We did however manage to pick up one speeding fine, 45km in a 30km speed zone which “of coarse” Wolf did not see, so negotiated the fine with lots of s—t talking and laughing and the end result, Tanz. Shillings, 10,000 (R65.00)
Our highlights, all the parks,(even with the high costs) the lowlights lots of cold showers, some of the corrugated roads in the parks, and the campsite in Arusha was horrific.(Massai Campsite, not recommended)

ZANZIBAR

2009-06-25T17:45:00.007+02:00

ZANZIBAR
14th-18thJune, 2009.
In Tanzania, staying at the resort we stayed at, you can leave your car safely, also can hook up to electricity or leave your supplies in their fridge without having the hassle of worrying about your car and fridge.
We left on Sunday Morning, over the ferry (both of us in cage) and then went to church before leaving on the 10.30am ferry to Zanzibar. The Church in Dar was a cathedral, very big and a little difficult to hear the priest, but really beautiful and mass was in English. The crossing takes one and half hours, quite comfortable as long as you don’t need the toilet.!!!!!!!! At least we had been recommended where to stay and this was organized, “the touts” (people who try and organize tours and accommodation for commission) they are worse than the beggars on the streets of Maputo, and older and more pushy. Anyway we managed to push through and get to our hotel where we, in some quiet manner, to organize our walkabout in Stone Town for the afternoon and doing a spice tour and beach visit for the next day.
The island is actually a separate state of Tanzania, which we did not know and were told that we only needed a copy of the passport, well thank heavens for a nice custom official, on hearing we did not bring our passports, and listening to the story he stamped our papers and let us through. Here we were imagining having to go back for the passports; ferry price is US$35 one way each.
The island is flat and surrounded by sandy, tropicool beaches with lagoons and mangrove swamps, with Coral reefs lying beyond the shoreline. Up to recently, farming and fishing have been the main occupations, but with the ease of getting there (not cheap) the tourist industry has grown tremendously and this is now a very lucrative source of income for the islanders.
We booked a tour around Stone Town for the afternoon and were quite pleased we did not try it on our own. There is a lot of history which you would never know without a guide and getting lost is very easy. There are dozens of little alleys and the town’s made up of lots of very old buildings, some in rows, but then it opens up onto wider streets and open spaces and within minutes you are back in alleys, where although there are cars allowed, (and no one way streets), you cannot even think that cars and pedestrians can share the same street. In the late1800’s Zanzibar was very big into slave trade. One of the places we visited is now an Anglican Church which is said to have been built over the whipping block and the pits where the slaves were kept before being sold is found the building next door (now Monica’s Guesthouse) We visited these cellars where the space which would probably hold 20-30 slaves lying next to each other was used for up to 75 at a time. With pressure from Livingston, Bishop Steer, and outside Countries, Sultan Barghash closed the slave market and the UMCA (Universities’ Mission in Central Africa) built the church. There is a stained glass window of Livingstone dedicated to his memory and the church’s crucifix is made from the tree under which his heart was buried in Zambia. We actually visited this as well in Zambia. (His body was transported back to England where it is buried.) Other very interesting buildings were the old Arab Fort, the oldest building in Stone Town, the House of Wonders, which is a multi-storey building surrounded by tiers of impressive balconies and topped by a clock tower., the Upimaji Building which was the home of a German merchant Heinrich Ruete who married Princess Salme one of the Sultan’s daughters in 1860 after which it was used for the British Consulate, St Josephs Catholic Cathedral(with twin spires and built between 1896 and 1898), the Old Dispensary, a very ornate three Storey building built in the 1890’s., the Hammani Baths, one of the most elaborate Persian baths built for Sultan Barghash. We also saw many more old buildings with traditional heavy wooden doors and “elephant stoppers” (sharp brass knobs, about 4-6 across and 4 down.) We ended our tour at Africa House Hotel which served as the English Club from 1888.
Sunday evening we went to an open food market, each stall (table) has at least two chefs, (all dressed in proper White Chefs uniforms), only problem if you use their one or two tables which they have available, no alcohol allowed. That did not suit us, but after our meal we made up for it and sat up on the deck of the Africa Hotel, thought of Tommy and Caroline who stayed there during their visit to Zanzibar and enjoyed our drinks. Our meal cost less than two beers and a glass of wine.
The next morning after breakfast we were picked up by our tour operator to visit a spice farm, after which we visited Mangapani Slave Cave. It is a natural coral cavern with a very narrow entrance and a pool of fresh water at the lowest point. The small square cave was cut into the coral and was used to hide the slaves who were being transported onto the ships, we also visited another Persian Bath House built for one of the Sultans and then had a short trip to a private beach where you could have a swim.
Our tour also included lunch which consisted of Rice, Spinach, and a vegetable sauce which was very good, and for sweets you got a small plate of fresh fruit.
The actual Spice tour was very interesting, we saw many spice plants being grown. Ginger, Turmeric, Cloves, Curry Leaves, Cardomen, Lemon Grass, Cumin, Annatto(tandorie made from this),Henna, Chilli, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Nutmeg (by the way ladies, Nutmeg is used to relax a lady before her wedding night) We saw and tasted their fruits which are grown, pineapple, Red Leaches, Starfruit, Jackfruit, Green Oranges, Bananas and Breadfruit. Tip from our guide, to tenderise meat, mix Ginger, Cumin, Garlic and Black Pepper. ( I think you should do this with all meat in Tanzania, everything is “fresh” One restaurant actually told us they don’t have a fridge because everything is fresh, chicken, beef, whatever, we had Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce.
The only spice which is exported in great quantities is cloves.
We chose to spend the other two days visiting the east coast, as we wanted to see the Red Colobus Monkeys in the Jozini Forest which is on the same side. On either of the coasts, your tropicool beaches are white and the see unbelievably turquoise. The beach we were on was in a bay, and about a 1km out you could see the reef and the waves breaking. Unfortunately the day we left for the beach, it rained most of the day, but that did not stop us having a real nice walk on the beach late afternoon. We spent the next day swimming, and seeing a bit of the beaches.
On our last day, we were picked up and driven to the Jozini Forest where we spent two hours with the Red Colobus Monkeys. They are one of the few species which 80% of their food intake is mad up of leaves, for which they have a highly developed digestive system. They have a beautiful tufted crown and their backs are a very dark red colour. They played in the trees above us swinging as if they were going to jump on your shoulder, great fun to watch. We then visited a Mangrove forest, which has a boardwalk through it giving us a good view of the unique mangrove habitat.
We were then transported back to the harbour front, had lunch and a drink in “Eddie Murphy’s Restaurant (For those who don’t know it, Eddie Murphy was born in Zanzibar) right on the harbour, after which we caught the ferry back to mainland Zanzibar and returned to collect our home on wheels.Viks and Franscois we really missed you, I am sure we would have had at least a week if you were with us, talked about you lots and every drink toasted you

TANZANIA 1

2009-06-20T10:53:00.004+02:00

TANZANIA

7th to 13th June, 2009
We left Malawi on the 7th entering through a very relaxed and easy border at Songwe, our intention was to stop directly over the border but we missed a turning and as it was quite early decided to push on to Mbeye. Going into Tanzania our time changed to one hour forward than SA. Not estimating the road conditions we arrived in Mbeya at about 6pm. This and having changed to “Tracks for Africa” from Garmin we were a little disorientated and got a bit lost after being recommended by a fellow traveller to stay at Karibuni (a mission which was in town and have camping and accommodation) After lots of “go there,go straight, turn this way and that way” instructions, we arrived at the “mission” what a find, decided on a room, clean with Mozzie net and bathroom, hot water for 20,000 shillings. At this point we were still calculating the changing rate, and convinced we were wrong, cost us R136.00 double room. We had a cold supper and went to bed. Next morning we went in for breakfast and after Wolf had paid the restaurant, out came the lady with our money for breakfast, “no no, breakfast is included in the Accommodation rate” What a nice start to Tanzania. 2nd nice surprise fuel dropped from R11.50 in Malawi to R8.50 in Tanzania.
We spent the next three nights stopping near Ruaha National Park, then onto Riverside camp site outside of Iringa and our intention was to stay just outside of Mikumi National Park, where the camp site is usually visited by quite a few animals from both Mikumi and Selous Parks. Again relying on “Tracks for Africa” (it does not give street names) we missed a turning, (nothing is well signposted in Tanzania) we ended up in Morogora and stayed at Mama’s hotel (Portuguese owned and run) unfortunately “Mama” died a year back and “Papa” is not so good, but we managed. Breakfast was a laugh, there were 5 of us in the dining room, and only three coffee cups. At least Wolf managed to get one and we shared. I got the giggles (not too bad, it was very early, 6.30am) and thought of Chandy’s face.
You might all ask here why we missed staying in the Parks, Tanzania parks are so expensive that you really need to choose some and leave the rest, we have decided to do Serengeti, Ngorogora Crator and Tarangire National Park. (they are all in the region of about $200 (US) per day (and this is camping)
Leaving this early was to get through Dar Es Salaam as early as possible, where we had to cross a ferry. Like any big city, 10km outside the traffic was as usual a nightmare. I was quite taken back when as we approached the city we saw street-sweepers and found the city not too bad. For all of us who have been to Mozambique, furniture, doors, plumbing supplies etc etc can be bought on the side of the road.
Approaching the ferry, again badly sign posted, we missed a hanging one way sign and ended up going down to the ferry with cars, bicycles, people all coming towards us. A policeman informing us of our violation and we will leave to your imagination, Wolf trying to deal with the policeman, trying to turn our car and trailer around with oncoming traffic in a one way street, no one giving way. (Viks another one of those stories for the campfire, now really funny)
Eventually we get into the right road, and there stands the policeman who took Wolf into an office, and fined us 20,000Schillings (R136) no receipt of coarse and a good laugh by policeman and Wolf. When going onto the ferry you are only allowed car and driver, passengers go separately into a cage, cars first, bicycles and motor bikes and then gate cage opens to let in passengers. I will again leave to your imagination my face as to the pushing and shoving and smell of that cage!!
Arrived at Mikado beach resort at about 2pm, not bad for only 220km!!!!!!!!!! (left at 6.40)

Spent two days, swimming on quite a nice beach, exploring a bit of Dar (on foot) organizing our trip to Zanzibar. (We really missed you Viks)